I have a set of 5 Zigen GN+ wheels in 17x8.5 with a +30 offset waiting to go on my S13. I am about to order some parts from SPL (Most notably tension rods and subframe bushings) and was wondering if I would have camber problems in the rear. Will I need to order adjustable traction rods and/or rear upper arms as well? Can these wait or will it be a problem to not have them during "spirited" driving?
I will be installing Underground Motorsports Z32/Supra big brake kit, Tein Flex coilovers, JIC Tie Rods, and a bunch of bushings as well once the Attain hubs arrive.
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Nismo_Freak
- Posts: 10314
- Joined: Wed Jul 24, 2002 10:42 pm
- Car: 89 Nissan 240SX
Camber problems rest solely on how low you lower your car. Odd's are that you'll require rear camber and toe adjustment when you get the coilovers and lower the car. For that we have the rear toe rods, and the rear upper control arms.
When you correct the camber you are lengthening the arm. This along with an adjusted rear toe arm length can cause a fair amount of bump steer (deflection in toe when suspension compresses/rebounds). To correct this you need to test settings between the toe rods and the front traction rod (which would now have to be adjustable). This is the purpose of our traction rods.
Honestly you can drive on pretty much anything, but if you want a good handling setup then the suspension geometry must be properly setup and this requires adjustable arms.
From the mods you list, why allow poor suspension geometry to ruin your $1400 coilover setup's performance? It does make an honest difference. Weither or not it's for you can only really be answered by yourself, but given your level of modifications I think you'd be happy with the complete package.
When you correct the camber you are lengthening the arm. This along with an adjusted rear toe arm length can cause a fair amount of bump steer (deflection in toe when suspension compresses/rebounds). To correct this you need to test settings between the toe rods and the front traction rod (which would now have to be adjustable). This is the purpose of our traction rods.
Honestly you can drive on pretty much anything, but if you want a good handling setup then the suspension geometry must be properly setup and this requires adjustable arms.
From the mods you list, why allow poor suspension geometry to ruin your $1400 coilover setup's performance? It does make an honest difference. Weither or not it's for you can only really be answered by yourself, but given your level of modifications I think you'd be happy with the complete package.
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BuudWeizErr
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veilside180sx
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well i just installed all that jazz, from SPL, it was worth it. The camber from lowering it was considerable and now i don't have to worry about that. I can't imagine looking at the design of the suspension leaving out the traction rods. Especially when you see how strong the toe rods are and then leaving the sissy stock traction rods in there.Your'e in the same position i was a couple of weeks ago, and i decided if i was going to do it, may as well do right once and be done with it.
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Q45tech
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- Car: 1990 Q45 342,400 miles 22 years ownership with original engine
1995 G20t 5 speed 334,000 miles 16" 2002 wheels - 205/50/16 Sr20ve vvl
The oem designs have massive toe in braking/deceleration and toe out to neutral on 60 mph forces.........all a function of soft oem bushings.
Using harder or solid after market pieces means you have to reevaluate the oem toe alignment specs.
What you want is zero REAL toe at highway cruise.You will lose the self protective rear toe in - in deceleration to stablize the rear going into the apex of a curve.
Getting a zero thrust angle sitting still and at speed is tricky when you mix hard and soft toe bushings rear vs front .
Using harder or solid after market pieces means you have to reevaluate the oem toe alignment specs.
What you want is zero REAL toe at highway cruise.You will lose the self protective rear toe in - in deceleration to stablize the rear going into the apex of a curve.
Getting a zero thrust angle sitting still and at speed is tricky when you mix hard and soft toe bushings rear vs front .
Hmm... I see.
My first experience with toe settings was an old Kawasaki 4 Wheeler that had crazy amounts of toe in sitting still but under speed they straightened out. I never knew what caused them to put such extreme settings though... must have been soft bushings.
So if I left ride heighth stock, for the time being, I wouldn't have to odd of handling with an Energy Suspension bushing kit and the other parts?
Frankly I want to get it on the road right now. It's been off of it for a couple of years.
My first experience with toe settings was an old Kawasaki 4 Wheeler that had crazy amounts of toe in sitting still but under speed they straightened out. I never knew what caused them to put such extreme settings though... must have been soft bushings.
So if I left ride heighth stock, for the time being, I wouldn't have to odd of handling with an Energy Suspension bushing kit and the other parts?
Frankly I want to get it on the road right now. It's been off of it for a couple of years.
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Nismo_Freak
- Posts: 10314
- Joined: Wed Jul 24, 2002 10:42 pm
- Car: 89 Nissan 240SX
Q45tech wrote:The oem designs have massive toe in braking/deceleration and toe out to neutral on 60 mph forces.........all a function of soft oem bushings.
Using harder or solid after market pieces means you have to reevaluate the oem toe alignment specs.
What you want is zero REAL toe at highway cruise.You will lose the self protective rear toe in - in deceleration to stablize the rear going into the apex of a curve.
Getting a zero thrust angle sitting still and at speed is tricky when you mix hard and soft toe bushings rear vs front .
I'd rather have the toe not deflect as a result of the bushing at a corner apex rather than the toe adjust in the corner. Plus with the toe not moving in, you get greater pivot from the rear.