Moving the oil pickup to the rear

Discuss topics related to the VH41DE, VH45DE, VK45DE, and VK56DE engines.
tmorgan4
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Those of you that have already swapped the oil pan to a rear sump, where did you find suitable tubing/bends for the oil pick-up? I'm having a hard time finding something with that small of a diameter that isn't meant for a kitchen appliance at home depot.

Any pictures would be GREAT as well. I know T45 posted some of his awhile back...I will have to do some searching.


craigztoyz
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I've been grabbing some from engines at salvage to cut n use.

tmorgan4
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Have you been getting ones off other VH's or do a lot of other engines use a similar size pick-up? Thanks!

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Bart
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tmorgan4 wrote:Those of you that have already swapped the oil pan to a rear sump, where did you find suitable tubing/bends for the oil pick-up? I'm having a hard time finding something with that small of a diameter that isn't meant for a kitchen appliance at home depot.

Any pictures would be GREAT as well. I know T45 posted some of his awhile back...I will have to do some searching.
You could use 3/4" aluminium fuel line, but they normally come in a few meters in lengthSomething like this, http://cgi.ebay.com.au/1%2F2%2...16133

craigztoyz
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Trying to stick to nissan's as I have to have the pan pulled, to see if diameter is right. Take a mic (spelling?) to check the diameter. ZX's seem to fit.

Hadnt thought about the fuel line. That might be an idea for later builds.

tmorgan4
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This idea has been resurrected as I needed the extra clearance up front for a new axle as well as the peace of mind.

The oil pan is done being designed. It's a little rough just due to the layout of the flange and I was trying to avoid any bends, so the entire pan is laid out as flat pieces that will be CAREFULLY welded. I wish I had a spare block to build it while the flange is bolted down.

I ended up using some small chrome moly tubing for the oil pickup since local race car builder I'm becoming friends with had it on hand and a die for that size. Lucky for me as it slips tightly into the stock oil pick-up tube. The pick-up has been moved to the rear and I'm building the pan around the new dimensions of the pick-up.

The pan will be made completely of 6061-T6 aluminum. The flange is 1/2" thick and the rest of the pan is 1/4". Material costs for the aluminum are just under $200 for a complete pan.

I had a 1/4" steel flange cut and I tried to graft the stock pan flipped 180* onto the new flange but I wasn't happy with the way it turned out.

Pieces for the pan will be cut with a water jet so I'll be getting started whenever they are done.

A couple progress pictures....




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Bart
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Cant wait to see the result. I think i have an aluminium fetish, just love the look. Sounds like this sump is going to built like a brick ****house (Australian for built solid) 1/4" plate and 1/2" flange, mate this thing will definitely cop a good hit.Nice work

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Carl H
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fab work looks awesome, but a word of advice...build in atleast two different supports for the oil pickup tube, vibration will kill that pickup in a heartbeat.dont want to see your nice new vh go down like a whored out sr.

tmorgan4
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Appreciate the advice on the second support. I guess Nissan put a second support in on the factory pick-up which is much shorter than the one I've got. Looks like I should make another one to play it safe. Hopefully have some real pictures of it soon.

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npez
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Looks awesome, very clean setup and fabrication on the pickup. x2 on the need for 2 supports.

Thanks,Nick.

nat0Z
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x 3 on the 2nd support, for ****z n giggles, but tru will need some extra bracing, try to tri-angulate the pickup from the origin of the pickup also.

thougt you would have had a slight slope (only slight) on the pan towards the bowl, as it would bave been a simple inclusion, but i guess with a twin/quadcam nissan powered car it has plenty of legs to enable g-force to pull it backwards. nat0

T45
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That looks great! For mine I used the VG tube as it worked perfectly with my VH/VG oil pan. Ditto on the supports needed. When the tube and pick are full of oil they will more than double in weight....and we've all seen you drive!!!

craigztoyz
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x5 on the 2 supports. I added one extra as I cut and bent the original one. With all the vibrating this thing does, and the harshness it deals with, More is better. oil flow is important too. I hold 8.25 at full, and that is in part due to the slope, extra volume, and now it stays low.

Still love the work on your pickup and pan.

tmorgan4
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Forgot I hadn't updated my progress on this. My oil pan is *almost* finished. Just need to add a drain plug and resurface the flange. I don't want to deal with any leaks this time! (Sorry about the blurry picture!)


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Carl H
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very baller pan you have there...what is the capacity?

tmorgan4
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Thanks! To be honest I never measured the capacity. I built it around my suspension and the capacity will be whatever works. It should hold a little more than the stock pan since the front shallow part is about 3" deep. The rear sump is 5 or 6" deep. The idea of making the shallow part slanted crossed my mind, but that part really shouldn't be shedding oil anyway. It should be completely submersed or I've got other problems!


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Carl H
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werd. might be worth a go to fill it with water before you install it to check and see...im curious myself...looks like it will hold close to 8 qts if not more.

nat0Z
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tyler nice work.

thats not my development of the sump flange is it????wheres my cred deserved, i went through all that pain to not even use it.

but my sump pan spin manouver was very simple, but yet to have running and check for leaks as im sure if im not careful i will find one.im pretty sure ill be able to do a gasket goo trick to stop this.OK, trick is....... run your bead around the sump before instal, leave the bead for an hour or so until the bead starts to go a lil firm, bolt up sump, finger tight with a socket extension only a 1/4" drive but only finger tight, leave for 2 days then lightly tighten to spec with a 1/4 driver, very carefully.the trick is letting the goo go firm before finishing the tightening sequence

cheers nat0

tmorgan4
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Nathan! This creation was made possible by you. I apologize for not giving you credit for the sump flange!!! Once again, thank you so much for all the files. I've got all the other ones saved just in case I need them down the road. Very handy to have.

I actually forgot your username on here since I lost all my emails and couldn't look through those. You don't know how much easier it made my life. I guess I haven't gone to bolt it up yet...though.

nat0Z
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shoulda checked that first with a l/cut template or similar, as the digitising board used isnt 100% a 100% of the time, has been known to give some odd differences!!! but it also attributes to operator consistancy too. hope it works out, may have to slot some holes

nat0

WizardBlack
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IIRC the stock pan holds 6-3/8 quarts of oil.

darinz
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Are you running the 2 fatory braces back to the bell housing? I'm about to pull my motor and while it's out I'll do a rear sump as I've had oil pressure drop on a hill climb I did in one comp. (under winch) I pretty sure I can't get away without the braces so we are looking at either modifying the braces or building a very strong sump and using the sump as a brace to the bell housing.Ideas? Options?

tmorgan4
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Good question.....

I actually have not ever put those braces in. I know I definitely should make them fit. I'd forgotten about the issues of them fitting around a rear sump as well. I would think that this sump would possibly be strong enough to brace them to.

I'm still worried about ruining this engine by oil starvation. I guess it's not the end of the world....I can pick up another one for fairly cheap but it won't be rebuilt inside and out like this one.

I still haven't even had a chance to install this oil pan yet. I've been waiting to get the flange re-surfaced after welding it and just haven't got around to it.

T45
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I installed the braces on my rear sump. One of the braces fit fine without any modding. The other took some trimming but fit fine. I think they strengthen the entire assy up very well. I had to drill a hole in the braces where they bolt to the trans (Z32 5 speed) to get them to bolt up but they worked great. It wouldn't be hard to make them out of plate steel either.

darinz
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Yeah, I have sort of resigned myself to having to modify them as well! With the HP I have they're aren't optional I'm sure of that!

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Mettler
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Braces? You guys talking about braces belonging to the factory transmission on your truck gearboxes, kinda like on RB gearboxes?

craigztoyz
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The VH comes with braces that mount the lower 1/2 of the Slushbox.

I reused those, although redrilled to fit, with the 5spd. I check the tightening of everything during oil changes, and so far, no loosenig. How much the braces do is debatable, but they seem to do the trick.

On the pickup discussion,

Still loving my front sump, never have hit it on anything, the sway bar is the same height. Holding over 8 qts helps keep oil in the pickup.

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Chrispy300
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Blast from the past!

Just working out my pickup for the VH. What material is the standard pickup and tube made from? Is it ally? Really can't tell

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Carl H
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std pickup is plain jane steel.

Nealoc187
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Forgive the noob question - is the reason for this custom pan simply for fitment issues in whatever vehicle you have swapped your VH into, or is there another reason, such as oil starvation under severe acceleration/cornering? I'm just starting to delve into the mechanics of a VH swap.


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