Since i put in my top mount i have little room between the turbo and maf due to lack of space. There is a 3-4" coupler separating the two. Is that enough length between them? Seems like I read somewhere that there needs to be a longer distance between the the turbo and maf, otherwise there will idle issues, etc.A buddy of mine suggested moving the maf over to the cold side pipe. Does this cause any problems? What are the advantages/ disadvantages in doing this?
Here is a pic for reference............
moving maf to cold side pipe
Re: (c-rad)
I'm still using the stock ca maf.....can it be moved to the cold side?c-rad wrote:Disadvantage? The plastic MAFs like to explode around 18psi.
Re: (Ca_Silvia)
So....mine is waaaayyy to close then.......what issues will I see with it being this close?Ca_Silvia wrote:IIRC maf needs 10-12" between itself and the turbo.
if you move it, you shouldn't have any issues, its been done sucessfully before on CA's, SR's
Re: (c-rad)
I don't doubt this but do you have any proof? I was going to put the MAF in the cold pipe this winter and i run 18psi sometimes so you now have me worried.c-rad wrote:Disadvantage? The plastic MAFs like to explode around 18psi.
Explode at 18psi? Yep I would also like to see some evidence, not saying your wrong, but seeing the aftermath of an exploding afm would be interesting..
I know that they are limited in what boost pressure they see, because they are of abs plastic contstruction (so were never designed to be placed downstream of the compressor), hence why I bought an aluminum afm, but exploding?
I would be more worried about the sensor dislodging than the afm itself exploding...
I know that they are limited in what boost pressure they see, because they are of abs plastic contstruction (so were never designed to be placed downstream of the compressor), hence why I bought an aluminum afm, but exploding?
I would be more worried about the sensor dislodging than the afm itself exploding...
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bentvalves
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Re: (meminto)
a fair amount of boost in an efficient setup is most deffinatley going to crack the z32 afm's plastic housing.
Re: (ks13)
Yep, I 100% agree... Hence my comment above...
If it is a Z32 maf the sensor element requires re-inforcement before putting the afm on the cold side, it can dislodge under pressure.
If you move the afm to the cold side, it will lean out your afr's with no map modification..
If it is a Z32 maf, you won't completely remove the reversion effect, but it does reduce it considerably..
But exploding?
That I have to see... purely out of interest... lol
OP if you have a stock CA maf that you want to move, it wouldn't be advisable.. (Look at the diameter of the afm that you want to run compressed air through), you will choke it..
Cheers
If it is a Z32 maf the sensor element requires re-inforcement before putting the afm on the cold side, it can dislodge under pressure.
If you move the afm to the cold side, it will lean out your afr's with no map modification..
If it is a Z32 maf, you won't completely remove the reversion effect, but it does reduce it considerably..
But exploding?
That I have to see... purely out of interest... lol
OP if you have a stock CA maf that you want to move, it wouldn't be advisable.. (Look at the diameter of the afm that you want to run compressed air through), you will choke it..
Cheers
Re: (meminto)
That was what I was thinking.....be like a bottle neck. Maybe i'll just put my cai piping back on......that way i can place the maf further away from the turbo, and put the filter behind the bumper....like I use to have it on my old ca18et.meminto wrote:
OP if you have a stock CA maf that you want to move, it wouldn't be advisable.. (Look at the diameter of the afm that you want to run compressed air through), you will choke it..
Cheers
No one has answered my above question.........what effects are there from running the maf 3-4 inches from the turbo?
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float_6969
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It was sort of explained. But here is the more technical explanation, at least my understanding of it. Please don't take the following as gospel as I have no 1st hand experience with this, only hearsay.
In the stock configuration, the air passes through the stock air box and directly into the MAFS. The design of the stock air box is more complicated than it seems on the surface. There is a good reason that Nissan likes the flat air filters. The design of the box and filter removes A LOT of turbulence from the incoming air. This is important due to the use of the MAFS that Nissan uses. For the MAFS to function properly it is important that the air passing through the MAFS passes through as smoothly as possible. The reason for this is because of the way that it works. If the air travels straight through as designed then the MAFS is able to take a VERY accurate measurement of the MASS of air passing through it. This is because of HOW the mass is measured. Basically there are 2 wires in the MAFS that gets hot. One is not exposed to the incoming air, the other is. The MAFS knows the temps of these 2 wires. When the wire exposed to the incoming air is cooled by the air passing over it, the MAFS see's this drop in temperature, and increases the current passing through it so that the wires are constantly maintaining the same temperature. This increase in current is expressed in a 0-5v signal from the MAFS to the ECU. THIS ONLY WORKS IF THE AIR MOLECULES PASSING OVER THE EXPOSED FILAMENT PASS OVER IT ONCE! If for some reason (turbulence from being too close to the turbo, or from a recirculated bov, or an elbow right before the MAFS, etc) the air passing over the filament is turbulent, meaning the it doesn't travel in a straight line, but in a more circular or random movement. This means it's quite possible for the same group of air molecules to pass over the filament multiple times before leaving the MAFS. This would lead to a falsely HIGH air mass reading and cause the engine to run rich. Also, it won't be an even or predictable amount of rich. The reading will be erratic and may even bounce from rich to lean and back. This, of course, will make the car run like poo.
In the stock configuration, the air passes through the stock air box and directly into the MAFS. The design of the stock air box is more complicated than it seems on the surface. There is a good reason that Nissan likes the flat air filters. The design of the box and filter removes A LOT of turbulence from the incoming air. This is important due to the use of the MAFS that Nissan uses. For the MAFS to function properly it is important that the air passing through the MAFS passes through as smoothly as possible. The reason for this is because of the way that it works. If the air travels straight through as designed then the MAFS is able to take a VERY accurate measurement of the MASS of air passing through it. This is because of HOW the mass is measured. Basically there are 2 wires in the MAFS that gets hot. One is not exposed to the incoming air, the other is. The MAFS knows the temps of these 2 wires. When the wire exposed to the incoming air is cooled by the air passing over it, the MAFS see's this drop in temperature, and increases the current passing through it so that the wires are constantly maintaining the same temperature. This increase in current is expressed in a 0-5v signal from the MAFS to the ECU. THIS ONLY WORKS IF THE AIR MOLECULES PASSING OVER THE EXPOSED FILAMENT PASS OVER IT ONCE! If for some reason (turbulence from being too close to the turbo, or from a recirculated bov, or an elbow right before the MAFS, etc) the air passing over the filament is turbulent, meaning the it doesn't travel in a straight line, but in a more circular or random movement. This means it's quite possible for the same group of air molecules to pass over the filament multiple times before leaving the MAFS. This would lead to a falsely HIGH air mass reading and cause the engine to run rich. Also, it won't be an even or predictable amount of rich. The reading will be erratic and may even bounce from rich to lean and back. This, of course, will make the car run like poo.
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sjbsuperman1425
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Re: (float_6969)
^^i like your choice of words lolfloat_6969 wrote: This, of course, will make the car run like poo.
Re: (turbos12)
Where is it located in the pipe work?turbos12 wrote:i have my mafs running blow-through...never had a prob with it..it fixed the idle problem i had..and i have taken it well over 18 psi with a gt2871r..and the maf never cracked or exploaded..oyea im running a z32 maf
How long have you been running it like that?
Re: (turbos12)
DD? Or do you track the car?turbos12 wrote:its about 1 foot away from the throttlebody..iv been running it for almost a year now
Re: (turbos12)
Extended it out some........it's 10 inches to the back of the maf now, and about 12 inches to the maf sensor itself. Should help....if not, I can extend the maf out further and put the filter down through the fender and locate it behind the bumper. Had to bring my old shielded filter out of retirement Afr's are more steady now at idle...only fluctuate's a few points now (14.6-14.9), instead of sweeping 8-10 points like before.
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float_6969
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Re: (float_6969)
yeah...i still may extend it down and put the filter outside, because there is absolutely zero fresh air getting to the filter where it's at currently.....but on the positive side..... my stumble problems coming off throttle seem to be cured.
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float_6969
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ChristianKustomz
Re: (float_6969)
I have been watching this for a while and believe it has run it's coarse. I need to say something here.
You guys are playing around with kiddy MAF....the famous N62 (prefferably the orange label-not the yellow). Everyone is trying to get this very simple process down and everyone has made a mess of something simple.
We all know the Z32 MAF's are tempermantal. So why screw with them?
GET AWAY FROM THEM!!!!!!! They are not the solution. So what is?
The MAF from a 1994 - 1998 Toyota Supra. Their design is complete in every way and wires up pretty much the same way (minus a color change). They are designed to be close to the turbo (basically on top of it if you felt like it) and reads perfectly if there is any turbo surge (blow back from turbo). It has a cup design behind the filiment and is perfect for tight crampped spaces where there is almost no room to have long bulky pipes. This also solves the other issue of gaudy long and ridiculously un-needed pipes. Remember the shorter the distance the air has to travel the better. The less bends there are in the piping system the better.
So you need to look into the Supra MAF. You will love it and NEVER get rid of it. This is one area that is WELL worth spending the extra money on.
I hope this helps.
You guys are playing around with kiddy MAF....the famous N62 (prefferably the orange label-not the yellow). Everyone is trying to get this very simple process down and everyone has made a mess of something simple.
We all know the Z32 MAF's are tempermantal. So why screw with them?
GET AWAY FROM THEM!!!!!!! They are not the solution. So what is?
The MAF from a 1994 - 1998 Toyota Supra. Their design is complete in every way and wires up pretty much the same way (minus a color change). They are designed to be close to the turbo (basically on top of it if you felt like it) and reads perfectly if there is any turbo surge (blow back from turbo). It has a cup design behind the filiment and is perfect for tight crampped spaces where there is almost no room to have long bulky pipes. This also solves the other issue of gaudy long and ridiculously un-needed pipes. Remember the shorter the distance the air has to travel the better. The less bends there are in the piping system the better.
So you need to look into the Supra MAF. You will love it and NEVER get rid of it. This is one area that is WELL worth spending the extra money on.
I hope this helps.
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Seishuku
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Re: (meminto)
Choke it? Have you LOOKED at the diameter of the compressor outlet on the turbo?meminto wrote:OP if you have a stock CA maf that you want to move, it wouldn't be advisable.. (Look at the diameter of the afm that you want to run compressed air through), you will choke it..
Cheers
Besides which, the MAFS is on the turbo inlet anyway, if it's gonna choke it, it would right there too.
Keith, do it blow through, it's done wonders for my SR.
Re: (Seishuku)
Your kidding right?
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Seishuku
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Re: (meminto)
What?
Re: (Seishuku)
As in your last post, your kidding right? It wasn't a serious post was it?
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ChristianKustomz
Re: (meminto)
Stop the mindless chatter and solve this poor guys dilema. Son it's simple. Your setup requires a Supra MAF sensor. Like all 240sx's there is no room for a ton of pipes. Buy a Supra MAF from a 1994 - 1998 and sit it as close to the turbo as you feel. Thats the solution to your problem. Hope you get your project completed.