Moved: Timing issue w/ new CAS installed, engine Bogs down on acceleration

[fortwayne240]

Hello. I have made several posts recently relating to the "no spark" issue I was having. I have replaced the Crank angle sensor, which was causing the no spark problem. Up until the point of the CAS failing, the car has run great for the past 2 years.

First off, I was unable to get the car started after I replaced the CAS. I took the valve cover off and lined up the Cams at 10 and 2 to the markings on the crank pulley at TDC. I then installed the CAS according to the FSM. The car finally started.

Second, I proceeded to set the timing to 15 BTDC. I did the fancy FSM procedure for setting the timing, using a brand new timing light. Everything went smoothly. When I went to drive the car, it felt good, right up until I hit 3500 rpms, and well.... damn. My Blow off valve doesn't seem to be quite as loud as it was before, and well... The engine sound like it is going 200 miles an hour when i floor it, and the car decelerates, backfires and shoots out black smoke. when I let off the gas, the car dies.

I have checked the following:

MAF - in working order according the the FSMO2 sensor - good working order according to the FSMReset ECU - seems to be working fine - no codes being thrown.vacuum lines - no problems - no leaks - gauge reads perfect vacuum at idle

I am at a loss to explain the situation. I have entered the timing adjustment mode several times to re-check the timing, and noticed every time that I check the timing with the timing light, it is different !! I set it at 15 BTDC, why wont it stay there? I dont see how the timing can change, I i have not moved the CAS !!

Any help here would be great !!

[574-240sx]

I had kind of a similar problem and found out the wiring to my ignitor was pulled out a little. I also noticed my car wouldn't go into timing mode when I had the TPS unplugged so I had to set timing with the TPS plugged in. When I set timing with the TPS unplugged and plugged it in timing would be way off with the car falling on its face and backfiring.

[fortwayne240]

I will go out to the car right now and make sure that no wires on the ignitor are loose. By the way, does the ignitor normally get hot to the touch when the car is running? I figured that it probably does, since it is basically a high speed relay, but wow it gets pretty hot.

In my previous post, I forgot to make it known that I did the timing with the TPS unplugged, and then i would drive the car, and it would still feel like the timing is off a little, then I would go back and check it and it would be 10 degrees off or so, so I would go back through the entire procedure to reset timing, then I would drive the car, it would still bog down, and then I would check the timing again, and it would be off again. Oh well, I will go check on those wires.

[574-240sx]

I haven't ever really touched the ignitor after I ran the car but I know when I had the problem I was able to handle it just fine after a 5 minute drive. I'm also running a Q45 ignitor.

[ILikeMy240sx]

After you adjust the timing to 15* BTDC, how is your CAS clocked?

When you unplug TPS make sure its idling at 800 RPM or so.. did you do that?

My ignitor gets super hot after a long run

[fortwayne240]

Ok here we go. I went outside and checked the connections to the ignitor. No problems. All wiring to the ECU and the ignitor look ok. I decided to take the car for a drive, and it still has problems. I decided to take the RPM's a little higher than I ever have before while experiencing the hessitation, and amazingly...

The ECU threw a code.......... CODE 11......CAS, or otherwise known as the camshaft position sensor. I JUST REPLACED THIS MOTHER F**KER !!!

Currently the CAS is cranked almost all the way clockwise, while looking directly at it. In other words it is turned as far as it can go towards the firewall when looking at the motor from the front. My Idle is perfect at 750 to 800, the only downside is that the IAAC valve screw is bottomed out, but it has been that way wince I did the sway and set the timing 2 years ago. - HELP!!!!!!!!!!!!

[ILikeMy240sx]

yeah at 15* BTDC, your CAS should be turned almost full clockwise.

When I stabbed my CAS it sat perfectly in the middle just like the FSM mentioned then I timed it and I had to turn it almost full clockwise direction to get it at 15* with it idling around 800~850.

If your ECU is throwing code 11... I say it's your CAS. Did you buy a new one or a used one?

CAS it self or wiring leading to it...

Theres a procedure in FSM that tells you to see if CAS is faulty or not.

[fortwayne240]

The CAS is brand new. I have it timed perfectly at 15 BTDC. I have performed the check on my old CAS and the new CAS according to the FSM. They are both good.

I have also checked the wiring leading from the CAS to the pins in the ECM. They show good continuity and seem to be in good working order.

Still having problems with the timing changing after I set it, but the CAS does not move, it is bolted down tight.

Man, is going on ?

[ILikeMy240sx]

Interesting... There is GOT to be a reason why your ECU is throwing code 11. It's got to be somehting related to CAS it self or the wiring.

I can't tell you from my seat exactly what to look for but usually when ECU throws CAS code, there's got to be something very subtle either in the sensor it self or wiring.

[turblu]

Was this issue ever resolved?

[TooTallB]

I have the same problem. after a year of driving great it just went to this and now I cant get it to get up and move unless I hold down the throttle and get in the higher RPM. please post if you find out.

[wajouba]

Im having this same problem in my Ca18... but the thing is that my CAS is all the way Anti Clockwise for it to function properly without hesitation...

I have the TPS unplugged also because its not functioning properly when I plug it in... it would give me an idle of 1,800...

If I plug it in and turn it all the way clockwise, I would have an IDle of 1100 rpms and it backfires like a mother****er...

Any help?!?! what happend in your problem?!?!

[xpicer]

i have the same problem please any one helpp

[grubby27777]

were any of these issues resolved??? im havin the same problem

[jquinlan]

To everyone with this CAS problem. Take your Fuel Relays out and test them. They fuel relay is a common problem for the code readers to throw out the positioning censor. Check it it might be bad.

[0wn3r]

Seems like I'm having the same issue as well...my car dyno'd at 147hp with the old CAS. I put a new one in and it drove great for the first few days and then started feeling slower again. It still idles perfectly at 800 too.

The ECU does not give any codes and 3 different CAS units were installed to try and get the CAS centered but none worked. For timing to be right, it seems that the CAS needs to be rotated just past the bolt hole. Adjusting the CAS position by 1 tooth throws it beyond the bolt hold in the opposite direction.

Followed all procedures and started from 2nd notch on the crank.

The wiring to the ECU is untouched.

Going to try using a different timing light, but not sure what's up at this point.

[bentvalves]

wow so Im not the only one having this bloody problem.

amazing that nobody ever pointed me to this thread when I was having nothing but problems with timing drift.

aaaamazing.

edit: SR, sorry. Had the exact same issue with ca18det.

Greg

[lexrob]

Dead thread.. but heads up you can adjust idle with the ecu screw...At least with the ECCS models. Correct if that is a false statement please fsm states it as + or - 250rpms.

[fender_dude]

Any update on this issue?

[ZOOMIGUEL]

no but this seems like the same problem im having

check my thread and see the video..

zerothread?id=484018

im still trying to fix this problem!!!!!

[USMCgetsome]

have you guys rotated your timing chains with the valve cover off and verified the cam positions and timing marks as well as TDC? After you set it all up ensure your chain doesn't slip and skip one tooth. If timing is all done next thing to start checkin is ensuring your voltages and powers are all good. Ensure your alternator is pumping out the correct voltages while running and also not over charging.

After you guys have done that we can start checkin out spark then fuel. I don't think that its a sensor or ecu/cas. Sounds like a failing fuel system or failing spark issue. Also, reset your ecu at this point!

[ZOOMIGUEL]

how do i reset my ecu?

i will try this today

[USMCgetsome]

unplug battery for 10-15mins depress brake pedal a few times. Hook battery back up and check for codes

[ZOOMIGUEL]

how do i check codes?

ive never done so on sr20...

sorry to ask.thanks for help