motor will not turn over HELP

[xer1]

My wife came home after work and parked the qx4 in the garage. The next morning, it would not start. The starter clicks when the ignition is turned. I tried jumping and still the same problem. I removed the starter and carred it to the parts store and they checked it and said it was good. Also took the battery for it to be checked and it was also good. I can definitely here the starter engage but the motor will not turn. I turn the motor over with a wrench to make sure it was not locked up. Still does not turn over. HELP PLEASE

[ARKQX33V6]

Next time you try to start your Q, have someone sit in drivers seat while you go under car at starter position and tell them to start if car does not start take a hammer and gingerly smack the starter or bell housing then try to start again, if it works brushes in stater motor are worn down.

Also remember that the alarm system is interlocked with the starter. You may have to bypass the alarm in order to allow it to work

[xer1]

thanks I will try that. If that does not work, how do I bypass the alarm system? I looked in the owners manual and did not see anything on how to bypass it.
thanks

[Empty V]

Did you check the starter fuse left of the steering column? I've blown mine twice in the past 2 weeks.

[xer1]

yes I checked them and they were good. Still baffled. Maybe it is the security system. I may have to take it to the mechanic to solve the problem.But for now I havent given up yet

[Empty V]

yes I checked them and they were good. Still baffled. Maybe it is the security system. I may have to take it to the mechanic to solve the problem.But for now I havent given up yet

Did the contact points look scorched at all? My fuses were still in tact but needed to be replaced. Here's pics of what a good and bad one look like. The bad one even metered out with continuity but still wouldn't allow the vehicle to start.

[ARKQX33V6]

What year is your Q?
Empty V, are any of the fuse links burned open or melted with those bad fuses, the pictures look good. Can you explain starter fuse? Starters are not usually fused, can you help me to understand? Thanks

[ARKQX33V6]

Could someone clue me into pasting a document into this reply section. In order to answer this non starting issue I tried copying but can not paste and the sequence of events are too long to write out. I then want to do another copy and paste of diagrams to help out both Empty V and xer1, I need help with the forum protocol, thanks

[jhong1226]

Bench testing a starter is not really accurate for the fact that a bench tester has no way on putting load on the starter, I work for an auto parts store and I have tested starter that passes but when they installed new starter it fixed the problem. Something to think about.

[xer1]

The Q is a 98 model. I will get new fuses today and change them. I bought a new starter and installed it and it does the same thing. When the ignition is turn to start I can hear the starter click, but does not turn the motor. the starter is a remanufactored one. Maybe it is bad?

[ARKQX33V6]

When you bought the re manufactured motor it comes with a new solenoid and a spec sheet that runs down the loaded test results...this is a must, and is also part of the re manufactured starter. This document will indicate that current draw and voltage along with a time line and all these tests verify the starter is as new. Without the results you are shooting in the dark.

If your solenoid is clicking but you have not installed a new solenoid, the solenoid may be the problem. Most rebuilt starters come with the solenoid!

The starter draws about 150 A and the solenoid is the switch that turns the starter on/off. The alarm sequence controls the solenoid. With the solenoid controlled by the key, the alarm via the doors etc. the solenoid is easier to handle since it can draw up to 35 A instead of 150 A. If the solenoid is clicking and making noise the control side of it is working but the output side of it is not.

Your best to replace the starter with a solenoid as a unit then you should also get at least a 1 year warranty, but if the motor and solenoid are from different suppliers there is often an argument as to who will cover any further problems.

Did you put a new solenoid on when the starter was replaced?

[Buzzman]

Could someone clue me into pasting a document into this reply section. In order to answer this non starting issue I tried copying but can not paste and the sequence of events are too long to write out. I then want to do another copy and paste of diagrams to help out both Empty V and xer1, I need help with the forum protocol, thanks

To post images, you need to host them on a site like photobucket.
Follow this link. It's actually quite easy once you've done it.

how-to-post-pictures-host-photos-postin ... 54009.html

[xer1]

I am assuming that the solenoid is on top of the starter. If so, then yes the new starter has a new solenoid. If that is not the solenoid, them where is it at. I know on some ford models is was mounted on the firewall. thanks

[xer1]

I have replaced the fuse and a new rebuilt starter. Same thing, I can hear and feel the solenoid actuate and I think the bendix is kicking out cause I can here a clunk, but it does not turn over. The cable is clean at the battery, but there is a plastic box where the cable has a lug inside that connects to anothe cable. Is this normal?

[ARKQX33V6]

Replaced what fuse and why, just because or was it blown and what size was it? When you put the new starter back on there are 2 bolts through the bell housing, did you clean them up and not grease them up before bolting the starter up. Did you wipe down the area before putting the starter on? The solenoid is the added upper structure that requires the single polarized pin to be put into the female connector with no grease.

Did you do a bench test to see if the DC series wound motor starter did at the very least turn, with or without a load just to verify that it might work? Did you get any paperwork showing that the motor was at least tested prior to you taking delivery?

If the solenoid is working there is not much left to stop the stater unless and this is a big unless...the solenoid is iffy, when it works it has a big contact that allows 150 amps to the motor, that electric motor can be over loaded up to 3x normal and if the main contact is not closing as it should you will get nothing but a noise.

Do you have a meter that you can put on the battery. At 12-15 V when off the volt meter will indicate some activity if the starter is drawing substantial current because at the same time as the motor engages the 12-15 V at the battery will indicate less voltage. The minimum voltage is 10 V. If you have access to a DC clamp on current meter, it will indicate what current you have when the motor works.

But from your posts it sounds like you have voltage but no current. Is the battery good and recharged, the cables are clean.

The key switch allows a check of the alarm if good then that key switch allows the power to the solenoid, from the solenoid big currents to flow to the series wound motor and in less than 2 seconds the ICE internal combustion engine is running.

The series wound motor is not fused but the control to that motor is. a 40 A link e located in fuse and link box, a 10 A fuse in J/B box, a 2.5 A fuse in J/B box, then interlocks in the alarm system all play a vital role. The inhibitor switch on the transmission must be N or P and in good shape.

There are a lot of interlocks that must be met before that solenoid can operate and you indicate that the solenoid makes noise.

If all that is true I think you have a bad solenoid at least and or a bad motor at worst...but it is very difficult to diagnose over the net. I am relying on you.

Before sending the car in for testing are you able to test and have you testers, mutimeter, ampmeter?

[ARKQX33V6]

Correction
three fuses are 40 A, 10A and 7.5 not 2.5

[xer1]

thanks for everything ARKQ33V6, you have been more than helpful. I took my multimeter and started tracking down the amps to the starter.Top side at the battery is good and all connections, but had a drop at the starter. I unraveled the plastic casing around the cable and found where the insullation was cracked and the cable had croded almost throught the wire. I cut the cable and had a electrical lug and was able to connect the cable back together. Now I just need to get a new cable with all the built in wires, I am assuming the dealer can still get them. Thanks to all that helped.

[ARKQX33V6]

If you leave that lug in place, be sure it is tight then cover it with 3M electrical tape. If the cable is as bad as you write, check under car a check corrosion, check drive line etc. its time for Krown Undercoating cause not only does it slow down rust it keeps electric wires and connections good. Good luck!