Motor ticking help.

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kamikazee47
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ok this what happen, i just finish installing my boost controller, i set the boost to 5 psi on the boost controller, when i went to test drive it, the boost went all the way to 29psi that is when i quickly let off and after that i hear a ticking noise. the car start up fine and idles ok, and do you think i have a bad valve for the boost controller for it to go to 29psi? what could possibly be ticking?
Modified by kamikazee47 at 1:39 PM 2/3/2008


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480sx
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Im sure you'v already figured this out by now, but WOT runs arnt good for testing things man, keep your foot off the throttle till you know every things ok. Lucky that thing didnt blow lol. Must have a good tune.

I would say that you hooked up your boost controller wrong, it sounds like it wasnt working at all. What kind do you have?

As far as the ticking noise, thats pretty weird, and i have no idea what could cause that.

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kamikazee47
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i'm using a greddy profec e01, i had the NO connected to the compressor and COM to my external wastegate.

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WDRacing
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How about telling us where its ticking, does it tick all the time, under throttle or just idle.

WD

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kamikazee47
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it ticks at idle but when i give it gas i can barely hear it

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WDRacing
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kamikazee47 wrote:it ticks at idle but when i give it gas i can barely hear it
Are you posting from your phone? If not, try using capital letters and some punctuation man. It'll be easier for me to take time and help you knowing you can take the extra 1 sex to touch the shift key and make a . or ? every now and then.

Where does the ticking sound come from? Could be injectors, could be the timing chain guard, could be rod knock...those are the three things that I have heard the most.

If the noise of the tick coincides with the injectors firing you're golden as that's normal. You can tell by touching the injector and feeling if click open and closed. For the timing chain, simply remove the front cover and then remove the upper chain guard. Should be two bolts IIRC. If it's rod knock you'll need a complete rebuild.

WD

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kamikazee47
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This is what I did. I did a compression check on my motor and got 1- 175, 2 - 125 3- 175, and 4- 175. Cylinder #2 is kinda low. It might be my rod knocking, but I am going to take the valve cover off tomorrow to check if anything is loose up top. If the rod knocking is coming from Cyl. #2 can't I just rebuild only that cylinder? assuming my crankshaft is ok.

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WDRacing
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That sucks man, it sounds to me like you cooked the #2 piston. Probably welded a ring land when you over boosted. Take a cap full of oil and poor it into the #2 cylinder and repeat the test. If the compression goes up then you cooked the piston.

If you have to rebuild it, get an over boost kill switch.

WD

shahabshaukat
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good luck on the rebuild

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spooled240
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good lord, how do you go from 5 psi to 29 psi?!! Overboost kill switch ftw..

Check to see if you didn't blow a head gasket around cylinder #2

since your compression is really good on the other 3 pistons, maybe you could just drop the oil pan, loosen the rod and push the piston through the top of the engine? Then just replace the ring or the piston and replace if the cylinder walls are OK..idk just a thought, i never tried it...

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esahuque
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I'm in the same boat as you. W/G failed and i cracked #1, #2, and #4 ringlands. my boost went from 12psi to as high as my as my boost gauge can go before i blew off my I/C piping. Sucks man sorry to hear that. G/L with your car.

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spooled240 wrote:good lord, how do you go from 5 psi to 29 psi?!! Overboost kill switch ftw..

Check to see if you didn't blow a head gasket around cylinder #2

since your compression is really good on the other 3 pistons, maybe you could just drop the oil pan, loosen the rod and push the piston through the top of the engine? Then just replace the ring or the piston and replace if the cylinder walls are OK..idk just a thought, i never tried it...
That method works ok if the cylinder walls aren't scratched. If they are, you can often take a flex hone and run it through to clean it up. I did this very thing more then once on my RB20. Once it was scratched pretty good, i honed it anyway as best I could. Swapped in a used piston and ring from a spare motor. The compression was lower then the others, but it still ran very well. Not bad for a free fix IMO. You can fix almost anything as long as the rod stays on the inside of the block.

I'd be driving my 240 today if I hadn't tossed a rod 2 years ago...i can't believe it has been 2 years.

WD

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spooled240
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^ yep I would definitely check the cylinder walls, and of course a bore "shape" or whatever you call it..I think his cylinder walls should be fine maybe just a hone? Or do you have to remove the engine for that? (metal shavings, etc.)

Kamikazee47, I don't know if you want to try this but nonetheless I hope you can get your KA back boosted!

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kamikazee47
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Know any good site that sell complete bottom end rebuild kit beside amsperformance?


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