Motor running hot WTF!!!

For the RWD SR20DET cars! Sponsored by Wiring Specialties.
User avatar
schanne
Posts: 1281
Joined: Sun Sep 24, 2006 4:39 pm
Car: 93 Hatch-Sr20

Post

Motor now has 500 miles on it and runs great!! But loves to HEAT UP!!Living in Fl doesn't help any however, this is what I have done..ALL hoses replaced (3rd go around.)Motor pulled for back hoses, also under the injectors.( about 9 all together) external water gauge (stock did not work anymore)custom radiator shroud with dual fanse Ok just got the fans on today and lovely HEAT!!! PLEASE HELP!!!Any suggestions would be very helpful!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


User avatar
skillzilla
Posts: 655
Joined: Tue Jun 08, 2004 4:32 am

Post

Are you losing coolant? Does it heat up when accesories (AC especially) is being used? How new is the water pump? Does it heat up only at idle or when in motion/higher revs also? Do you have all your ducting still intact? What else do you have controlling your fans?

Really there are only 3 reasons a car will overhaeat:

1) Air in water jackets. Make sure you dont have ANY air at all in the engine or radiator hoses, etc. As air gets trapped it heats up, causing a super high pressure area that blocks coolant from flowing passed that section. Check the interweb for the proper way to bleed your coolant, dont know if it is an SR or KA or what. Basically there is a 10mm (usually) bolt at the highest point of the engine that has water passing through it. You let the car warm up slightly then loosen the bolt SLOWLY letting the air/steam escape. When water starts coming out close it tight again. Repeat.

2) Leaking Coolant. If you are losing coolant its either boiling out of the puke tank or you have a leak somewhere. Its really easy to tell, look for coolant on the ground after idling/warming up.

3) Water pump not doing its job. If the water pump is bad or the belt is loose you may not be pumping enough water. Make sure the belt is tight and if possible just replace the pump, its 30 bux and about an hours work, worth doing anyways. Also, if you have a bad thermostat that is stuck closed no water will move through the engine and it will overheat, so check that too.


eDmSiL80
Posts: 539
Joined: Fri Dec 02, 2005 4:47 am
Car: sil80

Post

i have a problem with my sr as well. I took out the thermostat and it stopped spiking up in heat. Turned out my thermostat was stuck. Im running without it as of now, if u wanna run without it u might wanna try different size washers in replace of ur thermostat. Cause if theres nothin there, it just rushes in with coolant and if ur car ever gets hott its a ***** for it to cool down. Being that it has no time to stay at a steady temp since its just spraying thro with coolant. Other then that i dont know wat else you could do. My buddy reccomended a stock clutch fan....

doridori23
Posts: 271
Joined: Wed Jun 13, 2007 11:43 am
Car: 1996 SR20deT 240sx (mine) , 1998 KA24de (wife's)

Post

skillzilla wrote:Are you losing coolant? Does it heat up when accesories (AC especially) is being used? How new is the water pump? Does it heat up only at idle or when in motion/higher revs also? Do you have all your ducting still intact? What else do you have controlling your fans?

Really there are only 3 reasons a car will overhaeat:

1) Air in water jackets. Make sure you dont have ANY air at all in the engine or radiator hoses, etc. As air gets trapped it heats up, causing a super high pressure area that blocks coolant from flowing passed that section. Check the interweb for the proper way to bleed your coolant, dont know if it is an SR or KA or what. Basically there is a 10mm (usually) bolt at the highest point of the engine that has water passing through it. You let the car warm up slightly then loosen the bolt SLOWLY letting the air/steam escape. When water starts coming out close it tight again. Repeat.

2) Leaking Coolant. If you are losing coolant its either boiling out of the puke tank or you have a leak somewhere. Its really easy to tell, look for coolant on the ground after idling/warming up.

3) Water pump not doing its job. If the water pump is bad or the belt is loose you may not be pumping enough water. Make sure the belt is tight and if possible just replace the pump, its 30 bux and about an hours work, worth doing anyways. Also, if you have a bad thermostat that is stuck closed no water will move through the engine and it will overheat, so check that too.
Added to skills list

4. Radiator is either clogged or too little surface area to allow for proper heat dissipation. If you are running with the stock rad and mechanical fan w/shroud that could very well be a problem especially in Florida. You can try to back flush your rad using a kit from Walmart and installing new coolant. Only use 1/2 gal coolant, entire bottle of water wetter / purple ice, and rest water as you dont get very cold in Florida.

User avatar
C - ROD
Posts: 563
Joined: Sun Sep 18, 2005 5:01 pm
Car: SR20DET pignose hatch

Post

i was jsut gonna add that too

User avatar
schanne
Posts: 1281
Joined: Sun Sep 24, 2006 4:39 pm
Car: 93 Hatch-Sr20

Post

ok, having trouble finding the bleeder screw! I do already have a knock off koyo, all new hoses, dual pulling fans with shroud. I'm not leaking any coolant. I have no a/c that works not even installed. havn't replaced the water pump and thermo yet, ordered yesterday. It heats up after 15 mins of regular driving. The under panel that was there is gone. I have ordered the top panel off ebay, but now i badly need the bottom one now... when i just went to go fill up the rad. cold engine, start car with rad. cap off and it just starts to come out the top of the radiator. is this normal?? am i supposed to bleed it with the cap off??(seems like every 1 has there own way with that part) but right now- I NEED TO FIND THE BLEEDER SCREW. any 1 have a picture???PLEASE???!!

User avatar
schanne
Posts: 1281
Joined: Sun Sep 24, 2006 4:39 pm
Car: 93 Hatch-Sr20

Post

Its a blacktop sr20-------BUMP

User avatar
Hijacker
Posts: 14373
Joined: Wed Aug 13, 2003 4:57 am
Car: '92 240sx Convertible
'94 F-150
Location: Fredericksburg, VA

Post

It's on the metal neck coming off the right hand side of the head.

And as far as running with no thermostat, don't do that. You can do as much damage to your motor that way as you can with a broken thermo. The motor will never reach a stable temp, and metal really really doesn't like to be changing temps all the time. especially alluminum.

User avatar
coupe240sxguy
Posts: 441
Joined: Wed Mar 28, 2007 8:36 pm
Car: '89 240sx/ '01 mazda 626
Contact:

Post

add to list

5. When rad cap goes bad it leaks. Solution = Do a test on cap and on complete system.

doridori23
Posts: 271
Joined: Wed Jun 13, 2007 11:43 am
Car: 1996 SR20deT 240sx (mine) , 1998 KA24de (wife's)

Post

If your system is full it will leak out a little however if it sprays out when COLD like a geyser you may be looking at a head problem. What are the results of your thermostat and water pump install?

User avatar
schanne
Posts: 1281
Joined: Sun Sep 24, 2006 4:39 pm
Car: 93 Hatch-Sr20

Post

delayed till tomorrow will def. repost with new news...


Return to “SR20DET Forum (rear-drive)”