Motor Overheats

[icnuthin]

ok this is what i got kade-t t25 370cc q-garage ecu hks bov and fmic

ok here is the prob. after fresh rebuild im trying to get all the air out of my water system. but. my idle is around 700 rpm i know i have to bump it up. i want it around 950 and it does with the ac on. anyway my temp is at 180 degrees and then i turn on my ac and 3min of driving it goes up to 200 degrees. i try to get all the air out but it seems that its not all the way coming out.

prob number 2 when it gets to 190 degrees. ok lets say i go to the store and and kill the car and about 2 min i get back in and try to start my car and it just turns (no start) if i wait 10 min it will start. starter works and engine is turning but it wont start.

and prob number 3 is my oil pressure reads right untill my water temp goes past 190 then it looks like my oil pressure drops. is it possible that my sending unit gets to hot to get an accurate reading.

please help. i dont even know where to begin to search.

[Florida240sx]

WTF is Q-garage ecu???? Seriously.What kind of gauges do you have? Sounds like cheap gauges or install error as in not a good ground or interference Seriously.Take your thermostat out and see if your car still heats up. New water pump? Brand new out of the box ones can be bad. ECU sounds like it's your problem for starting. You checked your plugs? Seriously we need some more info on your setup. So far all I gathered is bought bandaided parts that are not keeping the wound protected. Because your car won't start and has an infection because it's hot....SERIOUSLY

[neverlift]

yeah something is way off it sounds like....

hey florida you get that ecu yet?

[icnuthin]

yeah something is way off it sounds like....

hey florida you get that ecu yet?

sweet that solves everything.

[krazydriver]

anyway my temp is at 180 degrees and then i turn on my ac and 3min of driving it goes up to 200 degrees. i try to get all the air out but it seems that its not all the way coming out.

prob number 2 when it gets to 190 degrees. ok lets say i go to the store and and kill the car and about 2 min i get back in and try to start my car and it just turns (no start) if i wait 10 min it will start. starter works and engine is turning but it wont start.

and prob number 3 is my oil pressure reads right untill my water temp goes past 190 then it looks like my oil pressure drops.

Warming up past idle temp is normal. Also running the AC will increase the temperature of the air going through the radiator so your coolant temp is bound to rise.

The car not starting when it's warm sounds almost like the ECU isn't properly configured for a warm start. I would start by checking that you have spark and can hear the injectors ticking when you try to start the engine warm. If not contact the ECU manufacturer.

Prob 3.Oil gets more viscous as it warms up. So as your engine temp increases oil pressure will drop. Cold start KA oil pressure is like 20~25 psi higher then once it warms up.

[icnuthin]

Warming up past idle temp is normal. Also running the AC will increase the temperature of the air going through the radiator so your coolant temp is bound to rise.

The car not starting when it's warm sounds almost like the ECU isn't properly configured for a warm start. I would start by checking that you have spark and can hear the injectors ticking when you try to start the engine warm. If not contact the ECU manufacturer.

Prob 3.Oil gets more viscous as it warms up. So as your engine temp increases oil pressure will drop. Cold start KA oil pressure is like 20~25 psi higher then once it warms up.

ok im trying to burp out the air and its going slowly. pain in my rear.and since ive been burping it it hasn't done the not starting thing yet.but its so hot outside so it takes like 5 min to get up to 200 degrees. but its only when i drive. at idle it goes down to 176 after 5 min. and it will stay at 176 if i idle it all day.

[neverlift]

you do realize that idle and driving temps are gonna be tha same... if the engine is at a steady idle of say 700rpm thats a ton of explosions. When you driving rarely is the rpm that low= a LOT more explosions per minute = higher temps, that doesnt include the incresed explosion due to the throttle blade being open and letting in more air.... 200 isnt that bad IIRC nismo stat is 190. 176 idle is great.

as for the ecu, I havent heard of q garage.... sounds like a bad cts, but it really could be the "tuner" messed up/forgot a map.. Crazier shyt has happend. hope you get it sorted out

[icnuthin]

you do realize that idle and driving temps are gonna be tha same... if the engine is at a steady idle of say 700rpm thats a ton of explosions. When you driving rarely is the rpm that low= a LOT more explosions per minute = higher temps, that doesnt include the incresed explosion due to the throttle blade being open and letting in more air.... 200 isnt that bad IIRC nismo stat is 190. 176 idle is great.

as for the ecu, I havent heard of q garage.... sounds like a bad cts, but it really could be the "tuner" messed up/forgot a map.. Crazier shyt has happend. hope you get it sorted out

its actually a really good ecu. he is out of houston. i think the website is http://www.q-garage.com

i dont have to use a safc and i have a atmos. bov.

whats cts

[neverlift]

yeah I dont need the site but thanx...I rom tune myself and run an ota bov be its on blow through.cts is the coolant temp sensor, not teh one wire one(IT HAS TWO WIRES). chances are if its red/yellow its old,blue black purple are the newer ones IIRC, cant really ask you the vtec at 4grand or bad mileage questions though... check it with a multimeter.

[icnuthin]

yeah I dont need the site but thanx...I rom tune myself and run an ota bov be its on blow through.cts is the coolant temp sensor, not teh one wire one(IT HAS TWO WIRES). chances are if its red/yellow its old,blue black purple are the newer ones IIRC, cant really ask you the vtec at 4grand or bad mileage questions though... check it with a multimeter.

yea i did some searching and i think i got the wrong cts. i got the one for the 96 and i really need the one for a 91-94 but i just took it around for about 20 min and im running around 190-200. its really hot outside too.

[bruinbear714]

Here's what you do:

1. Bleed your coolant system when your car is level via the coolant bleeder screw by the upper radiator hose with the engine cold & top off the radiator. Loosen the screw & pour coolant/water into the radiator until it spills out of that screw.

2. Tighten up the bleeder screw. Remove your radiator cap (MAKE SURE ENGINE IS COLD). Start your car and turn on your heater to MAX.

3. Let it idle for a bit... keep an eye on your temperature gauge. As your thermostat opens, the air bubbles will come out through the radiator neck since it's uncapped. After about 15-20 minutes your heater should be blowing out HOT air. Top off your radiator again and cap your radiator.

Your car should be operating normally at this point. If it still overheats, there's another problem like wrong temperature sensor, bad thermostat, bad water pump, or blown headgasket, or bad temp readings.

[eazye2000]

If you don't want to mess with air in the system, drill a 1/8" hole in the outside rim of your thermostat and point it at 12 o'clock.I personally drilled 6 of them in mine, and it worked fine.

I'm sure someone will find a problem with it, though.

[98240]

make sure none of your radiator hoses are collapsed

[WDRacing]

If you don't want to mess with air in the system, drill a 1/8" hole in the outside rim of your thermostat and point it at 12 o'clock.I personally drilled 6 of them in mine, and it worked fine.

I'm sure someone will find a problem with it, though.

That's an OLD SCHOOL way of reducing the the temp point on the thermostat. I did that on my F-Bird back in the day also.

[gtcustomz]

do you have stock single core radiator or a aftermarket duel core radiator. I hade a single core in mine and it always overheated now i have an aluminum duel core hasnt overheated sence.