Motor mount fell!

[DammitBobby]

Lucky for me it didn`t hit me in the head. I decided to fix my oil leak today and replace the motor mounts. It is a lot easier to pull the oil pan if you drop the front suspension. It also makes it easier to replace the motor mounts. Anyway while I was trying to remove the driver side motor mount it fell! I knew the motor mount was bad but had know idea it was that bad!

[Structure240sx]

wow, thats pretty bad. only thing about removing the crossmember is that you need an alignment afterwards

[AZhitman]

Dumb question, but how big a job is replacing the motor mounts?

I have some NISMO's that need to go in, but don't wanna pull the motor....

[Florida240sx]

Your able to jack the motor aren't you?Just a pain to get to the drivers side bolt isn't it?Just installed a motor and that was the only problem I had.Maybe need to disconnect transmission support so engine has more free movement...That's just my opinion wait for rsea or someone else who has just swapped mounts.

[Aaron_9349]

I found that if you are putting in the new motormouts and had pulled the engine, when you drop it back in, only loosely attach the nuts that connect the mounts to car, this way it will give you some play when trying to line up the engine when putting it back in.

[TheOne]

so say you put the front on jackstands , put a jack on the x-member, lift the engine(put it on the engine hois(sp?)) then lower the x-member so you can take out the oil pan or motor mounts?.(would that be a way i mean)

[Florida240sx]

Well my removal and uninstall of the engine seems that you could:Probably need to disconnect exhaustPut front on jackstand.Remove transmission support.Beleive oyu can get passenger side unbolted as it sits but the power steering lines are in the way on driver's side(89).So you have to use series of extension*(I didn't have a swivel extension which would of been perfect)*.Then lift the motor. and swap out.Need Engine hoist would be safer if you had one.But we had the car up high off the ground.Engine fell once it lnaded on crossmember and rolled and driveshaft kept transmission in place.It only moved an inch same place it sits a stock.Had engine hoist problems(POS)

[DammitBobby]

Yea I had my NISMO mounts sitting in my bedroom for a while now I just didn`t feel like climbing under the car and messing with it. I guess it is not to bad of a job. You have to drop the front suspension. Only problem is you will need to get a front end alignment when you are finished. You don`t need an engine host to do the job. I got the motor mounts installed and the oil pan removed but have not bolted everything back up yet. Just make sure to put a floor jack under the transmission and you have enough room to jack it up. I am hoping to finish it up tomorrow so I will let you know if there is anything to look out for. Since you are installing that turbo kit from IAP that would be a good time to remove the pan and install the bung while you are replacing the motor mounts. By the way lowering the suspension to remove the oil pan is the way to go. A whole lot easier then the way I did it the first time.

[AZhitman]

Cool - but IAP oil kit doesn't require pulling the pan.

[Structure240sx]

to replace the motor mounts:

unbolt the mountsput a jack under the bell housingjack it up (un hook any intercooler pipes or wires that might keep the engine from rising) an engine lift would also work at this pointpull mounts out and put new ones in

[nissanfanatic]

^exactly. took me all of 2 hours or so to do engine mounts and transmission mount.

lol, pretty much every KA engine mount i have seen has been very similar to that one...

[virus77]

My original trans mount was in like 3 pieces, looks like nissan saved a few bucks in the mount department during production.

[DammitBobby]

Wow that is cool! If I had to pick one thing I don`t like about installing a turbo kit it would have to be the oil pan bung. What a freakin PITA! Yea I guess if you don`t have to remove the oil pan then trying what the others mention should work. You only have 2 bolts holding the motor mount on each side.

[sanioll]

Good thread, but installation pictures would be very useful.

[DammitBobby]

Ok basically I followed the FSM. Do everything in here and remove the 2 nuts on each motor mount on each side. I will take a pic of the car underneath so you get an idea how easy it is to remove the pan and motor mounts. Also going to take a picture of the oil stick tube so you will see how high you need to place the bung.

[Charlie240sxt]

http://importnut.net/nismomm.htmAlways has good write ups

[DRIFTEADOR]

Cool - but IAP oil kit doesn't require pulling the pan.

is this true?

[Bronze MFP]

it sure is, check IAP's website. There is a link to their installation instructions.

[DammitBobby]

I took this picture this past weekend to give you an idea of how high the bung has to be welded on the oil pan.

[sanioll]

oh no, he uses petrolium oil. Get him!!

Engine killer, Engine Killer!!

[DRIFTEADOR]

this is their return bung install procedureQuote »Step 14:

Align included oil return flange HORIZONTALLY on the oil pan so you can look down the driver’s side of your engine and see it between the motor mount and A/C compressor. Hold flange in place and drill oil pan with a 1/2” drill bit to allow oil to return to oil pan. Align oil return flange and gasket with hole drilled and drill 2 3/8” holes that align with flange into the oil pan going through the pre drilled holes on the oil return flange and gasket. Use included NutSerts, tool and ¼ x 20 bolts to attach to oil pan. DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN! Apply generous amount of included Permatex silicone sealant to outer edge of oil return flange to ensure a leak free fit. Allow at LEAST 8 hours for the sealant to cure before refilling engine oil.[/quote]doen anyone else not feel safe with metal shavings floating around in the oil pan/motor?

there are many other kits that don't require welding, but still require the removal of the oil pan to clean up the shavings

[DammitBobby]

Nothing is stopping you from removing the pan. Only problem is that you have to get that bung close to the lip of the pan or you will have backflow problems. I need to measure the distance from the top of the pan to the dipstick full mark.

[AZhitman]

You're not gonna get shavings.... I tried this on a spare pan already.

Coat the bit with petroleum jelly or Li grease first.

Start with a small bit, move to a larger one. Don't run the drill fast, take it easy.

Leave the oil IN the crankcase, let the leaking oil push out any possible shavings. Messy, but works.

Run 10 quarts of cheap oil through JUST in case (if you wanna be certain).

You have a magnetic plug, it works well in case anything gets through...

[uncle_louie83]

when i removed my pan...i jacked the living **** out of my engine up from the bell housing...then i took out the passenger motor mount....removed all oil pan bolts....slid the oil pan around sideways on the passenger side and removed it between the radiator and the sway bar.....it wasnt that hard...as long as you dont have the stock clutch fan in the way....also removed the stock electric fan.

lewis

[DammitBobby]

Dam you are about 7 months late with that info!