more rb problems..help appreciated

[240love]

ok so to begin, when i try to turn the car on it wont start unless i give it some throttle. Then when it does start it goes like this( br br br brr brrr brrr brrr bbrrr brromm) then after like a couple seconds it wants to shut off but i give it a lil bit of gas and it goes away and it iddles fine. Also when i rev the car on neutral it wants to shut off.. it like shuts off but not quite then goes back to normal. And finally... let say im going fast down the street and a stop sing comes along and as im stoping if i dont keep on the throttle a lil bit when i stop the engine turns off. So yah those are my problems..any help much appreciated (rb20 btw just incase)

[nizmo zilvia]

when i try to turn the car on it wont start unless i give it some throttle. Then when it does start it goes like this( br br br brr brrr brrr brrr bbrrr brromm) then after like a couple seconds it wants to shut off but i give it a lil bit of gas and it goes away and it iddles fine.

It may sound like you have a leak or problems with your idling because I got same problem. Just recently I installed a new intake gasket and now its doing the same ****. Or the gaps on the spark plugs are set wrong (I think my plugs are no good now).

Also when i rev the car on neutral it wants to shut off.. it like shuts off but not quite then goes back to normal.

This could be quite of problems here. Like said above, leak, gap, idling, or something else.

And finally... let say im going fast down the street and a stop sing comes along and as im stoping if i dont keep on the throttle a lil bit when i stop the engine turns off.

This is a big factor we both are having and its very very dangerous. First time it happened to me I almost rolled onto a intersection (luckily I turned the corner and parked). And its not the first time car shut off like that. So usually I give it some gas before I brake. Ummm… Ima have to say its going to be something with wrong with the brake booster line. I don’t think mine is set correctly and probably neither is yours depending on your setup. Also a leak probably plays a big roll in here.

Let me know if these spark any ideas or help. And let me know for the outcome as I have these problems too lol.

[Shocker]

try adjusting your idle screw, open your TB a little more. Sounds like your not getting enough air..

[240z4u]

Or your Idle air control valve is so carboned up that its not working.

Is your TPS set properly to indicate idle when your not on the gas?

Evan

[240love]

whats the gap in the spark plugs supposed to be at?

how do i know if my tps it set correctly??

Where is the idle screw lol?

how do i know its that air control valve you are talking about and where is it located?

[Coolwhip]

The iacv is the little mechanisium attached to the side or bottom of the intake manifold. There is a screw that can be adjusted by a screw driver you'll notice its affects to the idle when you mess with it.

The TPS can be set with a volt meter testing how many volts it reads at closed throttle and Wide open throttle, usually set when the engine is off with the key in the on position. Just loosen up the 2 holding screws/bolts and allow the pin on the throttle body to move the sensor to the right voltage/ position.

The stopping problem with the car stumbling and turning off sounds like a BOV problem. What BOV are you using and is it tighten enough where its not leaking? As well its probably making you run lean right before you decelerate causing the engine to bogg out. Use to happen to my SR but adjusted the BOV adjustment screw and then set the SAFC to accomadate the deceleration air.

Hope that helps. As well as the plug gap was covered not to long ago in a thread, might wanna search, I don't know it off hand though.

Good luck

[Coolwhip]

Note: I had a Greddy Type S (open atmospeheric)

If you still run you stock one I don't think they have adjustment screws on them and make sure its routed to the intake pipe.

The throttle body has a little screw /bolt next to the throttle cable pulley. Thet too can be adjusted to give the throttle some more air as well. As well as adjusting your throttle cable to pull back the butterfly more is a method used as well.

[nizmo zilvia]

I've got a SSQV HKS. Will that matter?

[240love]

thanks coolwhip that helps alot.. and yeah im running stock bov

[Coolwhip]

I swapped between the SSQV and the Type S and had better luck with the SSQV however, the problem lays within the function of the BOV letting the metered air out before its consumed for combustion. Both and all atmospheric BOV's do this to MAFS cars.

To go into more details but still just scratch the surface...(numbers and such for illustration purposes only.)

Mass Air Flow Sensor reads 10 units of air. (Wide Open Throttle)

ECU interprets and sends 10 units of fuel. (Wide Open Throttle)

Engine Consumes 6 units of Air for combustion as well as 6 units of Fuel. (Wide Open Throttle)

You let off the throttle...(Throttle Closed)

BOV opens and releases the remaining 4 units of Air. (Throttle Closed)

BOV closes

Engine gets 0 units of Air, and remaining 4 units of Fuel. (Throttle Closed)

**Engine Runs RICH**

You usually slow down after this without giving throttle = Car bogs.

or You do give alittle blimp on the throttle and adds air correcting the mixture = car stays on.

So either way your going to have the same effect.

There might be another problem since your BOV is stock and should be routed to the intake.

If you find that your not getting desirable results, check and clean your throttle body, IACV, and BOV, as well as check the resistance of the electronical components: TPS and IACV