more damn problems....please help.

[Mustangs_Suck]

Ok so...first my turbo was blown. I got another turbo and had it all put in. Turbo is all good now. No more leaks, no more smoke pouring out of the hood etc etc.

I still have a good amount of smoke coming out of the exhaust, but the mechanic said I'll need to drive it awhile so it burns up all the gunk that got in the motor due to the blown turbo and whatnot..so ok that explains that and should hopefully be fixed.

Now. I have no pressure when I shift. 1st and 2nd gear kind of hold, but 3rd-5th is like I am in nuetral..the car just revvs...no moving power or anything. Any ideas? I'm thinking clutch, but it was fine before it got in the shop..so idk why it would go now.

Also - I have the worst idle ever, it jumps like crazy, and always dies. There is tons of hesitation when I sort of get on it (if the gear actually holds : )

Any ideas folks? The battery died - so I'm thinking maybe the S-AFC reset, adn that could explain my ****ty idling and possible loss of power too.

I'm just asking to see if it could be anything else. I've been without this car for over a month now, and I thought today I would finally be able to enjoy it when I picked it up from the shop, but nope....only got to drive it for about 10 min. before it started dying on me, more smoke started coming out the exhaust 'cause of the gunk in there, and started realizing that 3rd-5th gear i wasn't going ANYWHERE..just revving like I was in nuetral.

I'm probably going to get it towed to an import tuning shop this time instead of just a parts install shop...I hope it solves my problems....as this is starting to become very frustrating, seeing how I've spent about 9k on something I've driven for about 20 min. total and have owned for a good month and a half. - and ESPECIALLY because I bought it from this prick that said it was all in great condition.......god damn it.

[Mustangs_Suck]

Or...is there ANYONE in the Milwaukee area that would be willing to come and look at my car? I'd be willing to pay you for your time if you wanted...as I know i'm gonna get raped if I take it to a tuning shop....when in reality it might just need a small amount of tinkering from someone who knows their ****.

[wild_maxx]

the safc has a backup type of batter in the unit itself so the setting will never change unless you erase them all yourself. do you have an oil restrictor for your oil line? and i think you are right about the clutch. maybe you have a leak somewhere and some oil or something got on you clutch disk, idk just a thought. do you have a boost gauge with a vac reading on it. if its low check for vac leaks.

[Mustangs_Suck]

ahh alright..damn it I was hoping it was gonna be something easy like tinkering with the S-AFC

I don't have an oil restrictor line, or a boost gauge - it's set at 9psi i believe (or whatever the stock SR20 turbo is set at on the SR motors)

There's vac. hose that's disconnected, but I can't get it back on where it is. I need a L shaped hose to clamp onto both parts for it to fit..so I'm thinking some of my problem is with that...but obviously not all of it.

Oh well...I'll just get it towed to the place, and hopefully they'll be able to figure out what's wrong and fix it all.

[hysteria]

you should def put a restritor on there, or the pressure will go right past those seals and you'll have a leaking turbo and smoke everywhere again... THEY ARE EASY TO MAKE!!!!!!! so do it!!!! just go to home depot and buy a small allen screw that doesn't have a head it's just like the threaded part with a allen wrench input on top... screw that into the line fitting and drill a 1/16 hole through it and you're done... it takes about 10 minutes if you screw around the whole time... literally took me and my friend 1 minute to complete that once we had the drill bit in and the allen wrenches out and everything. soo easy and it'll save your turbo from leaking!!! DO IT!!!

[fiznat]

Your motor reving while youre in gear with no spinning of the tires is definitely a clutch or some mechanical linkage related problem.

Is the clutch new? Have you worked on that area of the car at all? Do you get any smell or smoke when this happens?

Just to help you visualize, the way the clutch works is that it is always pressed onto the flywheel (always attached to the engine) until you press in the clutch, which pulls it back slightly from the flywheel. If you are in 1st gear (or whatever) with the clutch out (pedal not up, clutch engaged) and your flywheel is spinning free without spinning the transmission/driveshaft/axles/wheels- then you definitely have a big problem down there. Assuming the driveshaft is not turning, I would think you either have a bad pressure plate or a VERY worn clutch disc.

[Mustangs_Suck]

you should def put a restritor on there, or the pressure will go right past those seals and you'll have a leaking turbo and smoke everywhere again... THEY ARE EASY TO MAKE!!!!!!! so do it!!!! just go to home depot and buy a small allen screw that doesn't have a head it's just like the threaded part with a allen wrench input on top... screw that into the line fitting and drill a 1/16 hole through it and you're done... it takes about 10 minutes if you screw around the whole time... literally took me and my friend 1 minute to complete that once we had the drill bit in and the allen wrenches out and everything. soo easy and it'll save your turbo from leaking!!! DO IT!!!

I'll see if the shop can do it..if they can't I'll be doing it as soon as it's working again..if it ever does.

[Mustangs_Suck]

Your motor reving while youre in gear with no spinning of the tires is definitely a clutch or some mechanical linkage related problem.

Is the clutch new? Have you worked on that area of the car at all? Do you get any smell or smoke when this happens?

Just to help you visualize, the way the clutch works is that it is always pressed onto the flywheel (always attached to the engine) until you press in the clutch, which pulls it back slightly from the flywheel. If you are in 1st gear (or whatever) with the clutch out (pedal not up, clutch engaged) and your flywheel is spinning free without spinning the transmission/driveshaft/axles/wheels- then you definitely have a big problem down there. Assuming the driveshaft is not turning, I would think you either have a bad pressure plate or a VERY worn clutch disc.

The clutch is stock for all I know, and no I haven't touched it or the area - the shop didn't either I assume. It's so low it hits the ground alot..and being put up on tow trucks it has scraped and dragged like crazy..so idk maybe something popped - I'm sure the shop will be able to figure it out. I'm assuming it's the clutch, but *shrug* I'll find out soon enough I guess.

[hysteria]

i've never even encountered a disc that was that worn out... my brothers stock disc was so bad that you had to match revs perfectly during shifts and then ease on the throttle in order for it to transfer power to the ground... and 1st and second had to be done just perfectly... so if you tried to drive it hard, it would just slip and you'd just smell burning. that clutch was as bad as i thought they get, and i've never even seen anything close to that bad before or since then... i wonder if the clutch is the problem... you should be able to feel something in all gears... even just a slight something, but if it feels like nothing at all then i think it's a good bet there is something else wrong, not just the clutch (if the clutch is a problem at all)...

here's the deal with 1st and 2nd... there is more opportunity for the clutch to slip here because the car is not in motion, and it takes much more energy to put something into motion (from rest) than to keep it in motion... therefore it doesn't make sense that 1st and second grab easily and then while you are moving 3rd and 4th wont grab at all... my guess is that there is some other problem...

in the case of my brothers old clutch it would do exactly what i described above... it was much easier to make the thing slip in 1st and 2nd than when you were cruising already and shifted from 3rd to 4th or 4th to 5th.

[Mustangs_Suck]

i've never even encountered a disc that was that worn out... my brothers stock disc was so bad that you had to match revs perfectly during shifts and then ease on the throttle in order for it to transfer power to the ground... and 1st and second had to be done just perfectly... so if you tried to drive it hard, it would just slip and you'd just smell burning. that clutch was as bad as i thought they get, and i've never even seen anything close to that bad before or since then... i wonder if the clutch is the problem... you should be able to feel something in all gears... even just a slight something, but if it feels like nothing at all then i think it's a good bet there is something else wrong, not just the clutch (if the clutch is a problem at all)...

here's the deal with 1st and 2nd... there is more opportunity for the clutch to slip here because the car is not in motion, and it takes much more energy to put something into motion (from rest) than to keep it in motion... therefore it doesn't make sense that 1st and second grab easily and then while you are moving 3rd and 4th wont grab at all... my guess is that there is some other problem...

in the case of my brothers old clutch it would do exactly what i described above... it was much easier to make the thing slip in 1st and 2nd than when you were cruising already and shifted from 3rd to 4th or 4th to 5th.

hmm..well hopefully I'll find out tomorrow, as it just got in the shop today before they closed. It was doing good until I gave it to the dealership when they put my turbo in...so idk. As I said it's about 1 inch off the ground, so it's been scraping and dragging alot - something might of got scraped loose, idk. Hopefully it's nothing terrible. If I need a new transmission or something I'm going to shoot people.

[Mustangs_Suck]

Well ok. They said I need a new clutch, and compressor.

Clutch is rated at $800 they said, and the compressor is $250.

The clutch price seems pretty outrageous....yes that's all included with labor btw .

They also said I need new tie-rods and struts. Now, I have coilovers..so I don't know what they mean by "struts"..as I was under the impression a coiliover is one unit - but then again..i don't really know much about em...so *shrug*.

I'll be talking to the main guy that does the work in about an hr.

The shop said they just "took it upon themselves" to order the clutch : but if I want, they'll ship it back..no cost to me.

[ILikeMy240sx]

800 does sound pretty steep.. Whats their labor rate and what kind of clutch did they order? Im a bit confused by what they mean by compressor...

check if your coilovers are blown or something by going to the shop and see if there really is oil leaking all around the struts of the coilovers. If your tie rods are bent invest in Tein rods.. I hear they are really good.

[Mustangs_Suck]

800 does sound pretty steep.. Whats their labor rate and what kind of clutch did they order? Im a bit confused by what they mean by compressor...

check if your coilovers are blown or something by going to the shop and see if there really is oil leaking all around the struts of the coilovers. If your tie rods are bent invest in Tein rods.. I hear they are really good.

The guy is supposed to be calling me soon (he's in chicago for the day).

I don't know their labor rate, but I'm pretty positive they just ordered a clutch through Nissan - which probably explains the high rate.

I'm looking at just buying this clutch for $310:http://w1.igateway.com/clients...=form

As then I'll have that out of the way, not be worried about it breaking due to the performance increase I've gained with my turbo.

As for the coilovers, I've never noticed any oil on them..so idk what they are talking about...if my coilovers are blown i'm gonna cry, as they are like $1500 for good ones, so I'll probably just get some KYB shocks/struts and some nice Eibach springs. and save a good $1000 on them.

Tie rods - not too worried about, but if I decide to go all out on it, I'll look into some Tein's thanks for the recommendation.

Oh and for the compressor - they mean the A/C compressor (as I can't see anything else they'd mean by that). I bought the car knowing the A/C needed to be recharged..so that wasn't a surprise - but I fail to see how it would be making my car not run correctly.

There's alot more problems they aren't mentioning i'm sure - as a clutch and compressor wouldn't fix my terrible idling, or having the car die on me - but it's probably just a couple clamps and hoses here and there I'm hoping.

[Mustangs_Suck]

Well the dumb guy is out of range for her to get ahold of him again..so looks like I'll be waiting yet another day to hear what the hell is going on.

She said all she knows about the clutch is it's a "turbo something" and price with labor would be $750-$800 : I hate it when ppl just leave vague descriptions to dumb secretaries that don't know ****.

[hysteria]

the a/c compressor is just an excuse for them to milk more money out fo you... if you don't need the a/c immediately then dont get the compressor from them... just look for someone parting out a car likes yours and you can do the install at your leisure, if it's not a big deal to you... you dont live in the hottest place so if it were me i'd wait on the a/c stuff.

that is outrageous price for clutch... is that $800 installed or what? freaking clutches cost $350+ brand new depending on what you get...

the problem with having people do custom work for you is that they can just name off bullcrap and say "well the rotary girter's busted so you may as well just sell your soul to me".... not that **** doesn't go wrong when doing custom work, i mean i spent well over $200 in misc parts when i did my install, but i mean $800 is some BULL CRAP for a clutch job...!!!!! they have a lift and it takes them like no time at all to do a clutch job on a rear wheel drive car... 240's are easy to do clutch jobs on... sorry not trying to bring you down or whatever i just hate to see people screw with you like that. dealerships... they really know how to screw with you.

[Mustangs_Suck]

the a/c compressor is just an excuse for them to milk more money out fo you... if you don't need the a/c immediately then dont get the compressor from them... just look for someone parting out a car likes yours and you can do the install at your leisure, if it's not a big deal to you... you dont live in the hottest place so if it were me i'd wait on the a/c stuff.

that is outrageous price for clutch... is that $800 installed or what? freaking clutches cost $350+ brand new depending on what you get...

the problem with having people do custom work for you is that they can just name off bullcrap and say "well the rotary girter's busted so you may as well just sell your soul to me".... not that **** doesn't go wrong when doing custom work, i mean i spent well over $200 in misc parts when i did my install, but i mean $800 is some BULL CRAP for a clutch job...!!!!! they have a lift and it takes them like no time at all to do a clutch job on a rear wheel drive car... 240's are easy to do clutch jobs on... sorry not trying to bring you down or whatever i just hate to see people screw with you like that. dealerships... they really know how to screw with you.

Yeah I knew the A/C thing was just a "hey i want more money", not a neccessity - unless they mean the compressor for/on the turbo? but i don't think so...idk just thinking of anything else a compressor might go to.

$800 is the price including labor..I'll be talking with the guy tomorrow to see just how much this "turbo clutch" they just went ahead and ordered without asking me costs...I'll be having them ship it back I guarantee it..as I'll be going with that SPEC Stage 3, or an ACT clutch (I saw a group buy on them). I know i'm gonna get taken for a ride anywhere I go, as I don't have the tools nor time or patience to be doing this **** myself...I just need it fixed...so I'm kinda at their mercy..which sucks - but what can ya do.

I'm hoping he'll just agree to letting me get the parts - as I can find them for MUCH cheaper through group buys or car part outs - and they'll install them for me..for hopefully not 8 billion dollars an hr. labor costs. *sigh*

[Mustangs_Suck]

It was also mentioned to me, that since the turbo was leaking oil - that the clutch might simply of gotten oil on it, and that's the reason why it's slipping. As I said it was fine before it went into the dealership and had a bunch of things opened up and liquids leaked and what not....so I'm gonna ask him if they just assumed it's the clutch due to how it's acting, or if they actually took it out and inspected it.

[hysteria]

i really doubt that the turbo leaked oil into the transmission housing and onto the clutch, but hey weirder things have happened... even if this happened i doubt that it caused problems because my brothers rear main seal housing was not tightened down completely when he installed his sr, and so oil was leaking directly into the transmission, and it caused no problems. he noticed it and then took it apart and fixed it... but ehy you never know... luckily it hadn't gotten all over the place so it was an easy fix. well i don't know what to tell you. get some tools and start working on your car yourself. or if not working on it immediately just start learning more and more because it really sucks (as you said before) to be at someones mercy when it comes to your car... i mean custom work just is better done when the person who owns the car either 1) has a lot of money (which not a lot of people have), or 2) knows what exactly is going on and knows how to haggle if there is no way he/she can do the repairs, and needs someone else to do em...

here's to hoping for you but i just think you should be performing a lot of this stuff yourself, with maybe some friends or something, because it's good to know what the hell is going on with your car and know when repairs are necessary or not, and not have to rely on other people. self reliance, in my mind, is something everyone should strive for, but hey we don't have to get into life philosophies here. i'll just say good luck and then i'll shut up. good luck.

[Mustangs_Suck]

i really doubt that the turbo leaked oil into the transmission housing and onto the clutch, but hey weirder things have happened... even if this happened i doubt that it caused problems because my brothers rear main seal housing was not tightened down completely when he installed his sr, and so oil was leaking directly into the transmission, and it caused no problems. he noticed it and then took it apart and fixed it... but ehy you never know... luckily it hadn't gotten all over the place so it was an easy fix. well i don't know what to tell you. get some tools and start working on your car yourself. or if not working on it immediately just start learning more and more because it really sucks (as you said before) to be at someones mercy when it comes to your car... i mean custom work just is better done when the person who owns the car either 1) has a lot of money (which not a lot of people have), or 2) knows what exactly is going on and knows how to haggle if there is no way he/she can do the repairs, and needs someone else to do em...

here's to hoping for you but i just think you should be performing a lot of this stuff yourself, with maybe some friends or something, because it's good to know what the hell is going on with your car and know when repairs are necessary or not, and not have to rely on other people. self reliance, in my mind, is something everyone should strive for, but hey we don't have to get into life philosophies here. i'll just say good luck and then i'll shut up. good luck.

Well..as someone mentioned above - it's weird how 1st and 2nd gear work, but 3rd-5th is like I am in neutral.....he said it's alot harder to get a car moving then it is to keep it moving, so if the clutch was worn it'd would seem as if 1st and 2nd would be the hardest and 3rd-5th would be easier...it's the exact opposite for me.

I've done a fair amount of work on 240's..but when it comes to this serious **** - I just like having ppl who know what they are doing - do it. It costs me more money, but whatever...at least I know it's right. I figure the sooner I get everything that needs replacing - replaced, the sooner I'll have a good car. Instead of doing **** one by one, and always seeming to have to be fixing it - I'd just like to get all done at once.

Thanks for the words - I need it

[NateDogg]

It's all about gearing. 1st and second have gears which make it easier on the engine to accelerate. 3rd-5th are tougher because the gearing puts more load on the clutch to accelerate. Thats the way all clutches are when they slip, so I dont doubt the shop is telling the truth about it. However, it may just need an adjustment, which can be free if you had a few sockets and a bit of patience. If it is grabbing at 'the top' of the stroke when you push on the clutch you can adjust it down and fix it.

[Mustangs_Suck]

It's all about gearing. 1st and second have gears which make it easier on the engine to accelerate. 3rd-5th are tougher because the gearing puts more load on the clutch to accelerate. Thats the way all clutches are when they slip, so I dont doubt the shop is telling the truth about it. However, it may just need an adjustment, which can be free if you had a few sockets and a bit of patience. If it is grabbing at 'the top' of the stroke when you push on the clutch you can adjust it down and fix it.

hmm..I'll ask about that - thanks.

the *** that sold me this car said it's an ACT clutch..so we'll see if he lied yet again about this ****in' thing...wouldn't surprise me if it's stock with 104k on it :

[hysteria]

even if it is, my stock clutch has 116k on it and still goes and holds down the power from my ~7 psi setup because i don't wear my clutch out doing stupid crap, and i don't ride the clutch at all. of course the original owner may have replaced the clutch but i really doubt it... it definitely feels very broken in, but just not destroyed. i know i'm gonna need a new clutch soon though because i'm probably going to be turning up the boost over the summer with some better fuel management... we'll see if the stock unit can hold down 10 psi... i really doubt it. that's like a 70-80% power increase (10 psi) so if the clutch holds... oh forget it i know it won't, who am i kidding.

[Red-KAT]

Well you're clutch is acting the same as mine did before I replaced it...

3rd 4th and 5th were useless in boost.

I have never had an ACT clutch... But I have a RPS-MAX pressure plate with the stock disk. I am VERY happy with it and have had no issues pulling up to 12psi on it. Having the stock disk is nice. (its cheep) and drives like stock. (Cept the peddle is twice as heavy) Its rated for 400hp

[Mustangs_Suck]

well mother ****er.

Every single part this person I bought this from put on the car - was broken. Every. single. one. mother ****er bought them all used, installed them, and just sold the car. I've already dumped over $1000 on getting the car towed, getting new tires, repairing the whole turbo mess.

Now they said I have a few vacuum lines not connected, and couple not hooked up correctly. They also said that my BOV is bad, and that my clutch is bad. If I get an ACT clutch (which they rated at $400) they said that all the parts I need + labor will be $1500. After the clutch is installed, then they'll know about my hydraulic system...which I'm assuming is broken, just like every ****ing thing on my car - but since it's not modified..maybe it's ok.

I still need tie-rods and new struts (they probably mean the coilovers..which f'kin pisses me off as they are like $2000 to replace with great ones) but they aren't a neccessity in getting this car driveable.

DO NOT BUY FROM DORIFTOMUNKEE ON THIS WEBSITE. He's the ****er that sold me this pile of junk...****ing prick.

[hysteria]

hey, well i know this all sucks but i can suggest a few things to ease the pain...

you don't need racing coilovers ($2000 item you listed before)... they are completely unneccesary on the street. you can get a very good suspension setup (new shocks/struts and lowering springs if you want them) for ~$500-600... if you don't need the lowering springs it'll cost even less... like $350 or so...

if your vacuum lines are all screwy your bov might not be bad... hook up all the vacuum stuff and THEN test the bov, because it relies on vacuum to operate. if the bov is bad that is $100, maybe, and less than that if you can settle for used or maybe not brand name (greddy apexi blitz etc), but of course if you have to have the best of the best then it'll be $150+.tie rods aren't that bad.

if you spend your money wisely and use ebay for some things you can definitely pick ALL of these things up for well less than $1000...

now doing the labor yourself is of course something you might want to look into, because at this point it would definitely have paid off for you to do the labor yourself... but if you just can't do it for whatever reasons then see if it's possible to get the parts yourself and have those guys install em for you...

sorry to hear the bad news, hopefully this is the last of it. good luck

[Mustangs_Suck]

hey, well i know this all sucks but i can suggest a few things to ease the pain...

you don't need racing coilovers ($2000 item you listed before)... they are completely unneccesary on the street. you can get a very good suspension setup (new shocks/struts and lowering springs if you want them) for ~$500-600... if you don't need the lowering springs it'll cost even less... like $350 or so...

if your vacuum lines are all screwy your bov might not be bad... hook up all the vacuum stuff and THEN test the bov, because it relies on vacuum to operate. if the bov is bad that is $100, maybe, and less than that if you can settle for used or maybe not brand name (greddy apexi blitz etc), but of course if you have to have the best of the best then it'll be $150+.tie rods aren't that bad.

if you spend your money wisely and use ebay for some things you can definitely pick ALL of these things up for well less than $1000...

now doing the labor yourself is of course something you might want to look into, because at this point it would definitely have paid off for you to do the labor yourself... but if you just can't do it for whatever reasons then see if it's possible to get the parts yourself and have those guys install em for you...

sorry to hear the bad news, hopefully this is the last of it. good luck

Well. I went there and put half of the amount down...so they are replacing my BOV, redoing all my vacuum lines, and replacing my clutch. They'll be putting the same BOV on (blitz) and giving me an ACT clutch. $1450 with all the parts + labor.

He said once they get the clutch out they'll take a look at the flywheel - if it's not great they'll re-machine it for $75 total.

After that's all done, they'll test the hydraulic system, and take it from there.

I asked him if he could raise the car up (since mine sits so low) and he said if my coilovers are adjustable - that they will do so....wierd how he didn't mention anything being wrong with suspension like the secretary did - so idk maybe the secretary got confused and was telling me some wrong things.

If my coilovers turn out to be ****ed though - yes I will just go with some nice KYB shocks/struts and some Tien/Eibach springs for a good $500 or so.

They said they don't let customers get stuff for them, because they can't warranty them - so I'll be getting some kind of warranty on all these parts they are putting in - which are name brand, not just some stock Nissan parts or some no-name expensive company. So while I'll be a paying a few hundred more for them to get the parts - it's ok..as they'll be getting the parts I would of gotten, and give me a warranty on them as well

Thanks for all the advice..I too hope after this is done, I'll have no more problems.

[DammitBobby]

You might as well add a rear main seal to it while your at it. It probably only cost you 20bucks.Dam that shop is expensive I only paid 240 for labor, 320 for a SpecII clutch, 20 bucks for rear main seal and 50 bucks for flywheel resurface.

[Red-KAT]

Yeah the shop I go to swaps the clutch for $200.. Its easy enough to do... I just dont like clutch jobs :P

[Mustangs_Suck]

You might as well add a rear main seal to it while your at it. It probably only cost you 20bucks.Dam that shop is expensive I only paid 240 for labor, 320 for a SpecII clutch, 20 bucks for rear main seal and 50 bucks for flywheel resurface.

Yup...$400 for labor on the clutch. Very expensive - but VERY good work. Plus this is Wisconsin...there isn't **** around here. Madison and Chicago are the nearest good tuning towns..and I sure as hell aren't paying a tow company to tow my car over 200 miles.

Good idea - it'll be right there..might as well get it out of the way as I'm sure it hasn't been changed.

[Mustangs_Suck]

Yeah the shop I go to swaps the clutch for $200.. Its easy enough to do... I just dont like clutch jobs :P

ya I'm sure it's not that difficult..but I just want the damn thing working...I don't want to **** around with it.