Yeah once my engine is running again i plan on slamming my car, and I was figuring out all the little kinks of having a slammed car. I don't want to go threw racks and such all the time.ashibah83 wrote:they shorten the tie rod mount, less length means more angle, and ive heard of guys who also flip the tapered mount to allow for some bump steer correction because the tierod is then on bottom so you have less of an upward angle on slammed cars
Well I can' trust the welds, my diff has held about 5k miles from my dad on a 16psi ka-t.wishin_on_an_sr wrote:there is a kid at my school that cut and welded them himself. To me it looked sketchy, but then again i dont know how much force is on that particular area of the knuckle. As far as i know they havent failed yet. I sort of want to try it with a spare set that i have.
That's what i ment, but I meat like the opposite of pigeon toed. I've seen some modified knuckles with them being so cut they wheels actually sit like that. Just wondering how it would be to drive straight.ashibah83 wrote:pigeon toed???? it shouldnt be pigeon toed, your removing length, towards the back of the car....not( i guess you would call it) track width of the tie rods, they should still be VERY close to the original distance from each other just closer to the centerpoint of the hub. toe in is BAD for drifting, not only will it cause EXCESSIVE tire wear, but i could also create bad understeer problems because the tires will be fighting each other for linear traction( one will grip, one will plow.....which one does which, well thats the problem)
i know that he cut it on an angle, it looked to be about 45 degrees., i just called the guy, and he's all secretive about how much he cut them, i too would really like to know. he said i could have them for 200 but i just hung up the phone. lol. does anyone have any info? I could do math since im at school for mechanical engineering. but i am lazy so if i do it at all it would have to be over break which is in two weeks. and i have finals. anyone know anything about advanced physics? or three dimensional phase diagrams?Future_gohan wrote:
Well I can' trust the welds, my diff has held about 5k miles from my dad on a 16psi ka-t.
I need to know how short i need to make it, I have an extra set i'm trying i to do it too.
Yeah ive gotten a hold of a guy who makes them as well, he wouldn't tell me any information on what he does, or even the lengths he cuts out. I know for a fact you don't cut them straight across but at an angle, and that s14 lca's are a + because they're longer. And To use tie rod end spacers for the angle needed to do this mod.wishin_on_an_sr wrote:i know that he cut it on an angle, it looked to be about 45 degrees., i just called the guy, and he's all secretive about how much he cut them, i too would really like to know. he said i could have them for 200 but i just hung up the phone. lol. does anyone have any info? I could do math since im at school for mechanical engineering. but i am lazy so if i do it at all it would have to be over break which is in two weeks. and i have finals. anyone know anything about advanced physics? or three dimensional phase diagrams?
coeur de lion please help me out as well. [email protected]. how much do you cut the knuckles?Coeur de lion wrote:Future Gohan.. email me at pigbombs (at) gmail.com and [email protected] and I will get you pointed in the right direction.
Just email me man, I will show you the way.. lolwishin_on_an_sr wrote:coeur de lion please help me out as well. [email protected]. the new hampshire people arent nearly as helpful. im from swanzey nh., please help us. how much do you cut the knuckles?