MOOG front sway bar end links 90-96 Q45 Review

[Infinitiguy19]

I purchased two MOOG front sway bar end link kits from Advance Auto Parts. I opened the box to inspect them to make sure they were the right ones. People often buy the correct kit and return a cheaper kit in the same box. They appeared to be the same kit in both of the boxes. Fast forward a couple of weeks where I went to install them. I notice one of the kits had bigger washers than the other. But the link still appeared to be the same design...

I ended up reusing the rusted washers from my old set. I of course cleaned them up as best as I could with a wire wheel on a power drill. I then made sure everything that was touching rubber was coated in silicone grease, Washers, The rubber grease boot that covered the joint on the end link, and of course the rubber bushings themselves.

The nuts and bolts that came with the kit varied from one kit to another or it could be that one kit was indeed the correct one while the other wasn't. But as I said before I have seen people buy two MOOG inner tie rods and return the cheaper one in the box of the more expensive one. And since most employees of Advance Auto Parts are not really parts people they won't know the differences. Most Walmart stores check to make sure a product with a serial number on it matches the serial number on the box when returned.

Anyways I installed the end links and notice a little bit of difference, Not as much as the upper links made but it could be that the end links at least on one side is not the one for my vehicle. So lesson learned always make sure you get what you pay for. If I had gone to the dealer and payed twice as much I would have gotten the correct part if it is still available. But don't let this review prevent you from buying the MOOG end links. Picture will follow of the old end links.

When I tightened the end links I did so on the ground with out a actual torque wrench because tight it tight, Too tight is broke! And at the same time I replaced the part that holds the front sway bar bracket. Before I tried to loosen the bolts I soaked them in plan Dexron Automatic/Transmission Fluid (ATF). Once a week for two weeks. At the same time I also soaked every other bolt under the car with ATF. Before I put a (i think 17MM) socket to it I hit the two bolts with a three pound sledge hammer to loosen up and rust formed in the thread. I used a beam style torque wrench to record the toque it was tightened too so I can re tighten it to the same torque. When I went to loosen the bolts (No they didn't snap!) they came off like butter at only 30 FT/LBS of torque.

I cleaned the threads of the bolts because they had a little gold zinc corrosion/rust. I applied black brake grease to the welds of the bracket (That holds the sway bar bracket.) because there was little rust on the welds. I applied copper anti-size to the threads of the bolts and installed the bracket on the car. Again I tightened the bracket with out a torque wrench to what felt like 30 FT/LBS of torque.

If this helped anyone and they happen to have a spare bolt from the rear sway bar brackets would you be kind enough to send me it? Or at least the thread pitch measurements and head size? Is it 14 MM head by 1.25 MM thread pitch?

[elwesso]

You can use the energy suspension end links and bushings/brackets for the rear...Info is on q45.org

[Infinitiguy19]

I did put 20 MM rear non greasble (no grease fitting on bracket) black poly urethane sway bar bushings (9.5124G). If you used the supplied bracket and some Flange bolts (14MM head, M10 X 1.25MM thread pitch about a inch long) you will think they will not fit through the bracket and the bracket must be bored out. That is no the case, thread the bolts through the bracket and then install the bracket on the car. The thread on the bolt will be fine.

I should have went with the 19MM greasable bushings (9.5156G) I think but oh well. And I put poly urethane end links (9.8122G) on the 20 MM rear sway bar. When I installed the end links I did so on a lift which made things 100 times easier, I can't imagine doing this on the ground. I mean I tried and then gave up and raised the car. But I tightened the end links on the ground to who knows what torque.

So far with crappy tires I have noticed a difference.

All that's left is to clean up my Front Shock Tower Bar and put it back on. And get some left threaded tap and dies and make my Rear Shock Tower Bar. And maybe new shocks and non sagging springs (if the springs are indeed sagging (Still haven't had time to check the ride height!)

G=Black AKA impregnated with graphite to prevent squeaks.