Mods Worth it or Not

[pulsar57]

Hello everyone. My new (relatively speaking ) TT still has a few mechanical issues to figure out, but I was wondering if people thought it was worth it to lightly mod it? The car is plenty fast, I just thought it might be fun to do/learn something. My main concern is passing emissions. I live in Colorado, so probably not as bad as California, but still probably not that great. I was thinking maybe exhaust and intake mods, but maybe it's not worth it. My friend told me I'd never pass emissions and it wasn't worth it, so I was wondering what people thought here.

[metalmagician]

Definitely worth it. Not for the performance factor since there isn't a big performance gain for simple bolt on stuff like that but just for the sole fact that it is more pleasing to drive a car that sounds good. As long as you don't mess with anything from the cats on forward you should be ok for emissions. I just passed emissions in Philadelphia area and I have a custom cat back exhaust I did

[nissanfreak12]

What part of Colorado? I have a lightly modded TT swap with a JDM engine. I have everything emission deleted except cats. When I moved here, I first failed. I replaced the cats with magnaflow cats, just the regular ones not the highflow ones, dropped my timing to 13 BTDC ended up passing at the Parker location.

It was a little funny when they started looking for the EGR valve, not like they would have found it anyways. They searched for maybe 10 min, they gave up after that. The emissions is actually not horrible, harder to pass than AZ, be easier than CA. Word of advice, if your tags are expired, tell them you just brought the car here. Otherwise they will charge you $25 per month they are expired up to $100 max. They don't care if your car wasn't running or not.

SHow us some pics!!!!

[ThisIsSparTTa]

Your basic mods should still allow you to pass emissions unless change out the cats. I was able to pass on high-flow cats with all of the "bolt on" mods.

You can chase the performance mods as far as you want, but the cheapest bang for your buck is going to be the single cone intake. After that would be socketing your ECU and getting a base tune. Doing just catback isn't going to help performance much, just sound. A "free" mod is to gut the pre-cats which are restrictive and don't affect emissions testing. You can also replace those with downpipes for a little more $ and a little more effect.

It's up to you what you want to make out of your car. Some people, especially on TT.net, think the only thing to do on this car is chase power, and that's all anyone wants. I've gotten mine dyno tuned now at 360rwhp and I'm plenty happy with it. People always point out things I could do, and I just tune it out because I'm happy with it.

[nissanfreak12]

I agree with Spartta, running all the bolt ons and if I decided to up my boost, I should run 400 hp at the crank possibly more. Just a guess though from what other guys have done. Plenty fast and fun for me, especially with the 4.10 gears. I couldn't imagine running 500 whp, I guess its just for bragging rights.

[pulsar57]

Thanks for the responses. Yea, I'm not thinking about doing a ton of mods (if any), but just some simple stuff I thought would be pretty fun to do. I don't need the car to be a million horsepower like some people seem to prefer. It's already quite fast as is. I've actually already passed emissions in Denver (which is where I bought the car), I know they did pop the hood, although I don't know what they were looking for, or what purpose it served. I was really just trying to think ahead for the future and save me some headaches down the line. I was thinking about downpipes possibly since I may have to have some leaking looked at in that area, so while they're there it might be worth it.

I'm really just a complete newb when it comes to cars and modding in general, so hoping to learn some and do some research before I get too involved. That's why I was asking about emissions, I don't find the idea of having to remove mods when it comes time for emissions very appealing, so I wanted to make sure ahead of time.

I posted a picture on another thread, the car is very clean (both interior and exterior), it runs very nicely and I have very little complaints so far! I really love my new Z.

[ThisIsSparTTa]

If you're in Denver you should stop by Woody's shop sometime.

[nissanfreak12]

If you're in Denver you should stop by Woody's shop sometime.

Agreed, great guy and very knowledgeable. He really only visits twinturbo.net, never on any other sites.

[pulsar57]

If you're in Denver you should stop by Woody's shop sometime.

Do you know the name of the shop? That'd probably be really helpful, most people have never even heard of this car from what I've found.

[nissanfreak12]

Thanks for the responses. Yea, I'm not thinking about doing a ton of mods (if any), but just some simple stuff I thought would be pretty fun to do. I don't need the car to be a million horsepower like some people seem to prefer. It's already quite fast as is. I've actually already passed emissions in Denver (which is where I bought the car), I know they did pop the hood, although I don't know what they were looking for, or what purpose it served. I was really just trying to think ahead for the future and save me some headaches down the line. I was thinking about downpipes possibly since I may have to have some leaking looked at in that area, so while they're there it might be worth it.

I'm really just a complete newb when it comes to cars and modding in general, so hoping to learn some and do some research before I get too involved. That's why I was asking about emissions, I don't find the idea of having to remove mods when it comes time for emissions very appealing, so I wanted to make sure ahead of time.

I posted a picture on another thread, the car is very clean (both interior and exterior), it runs very nicely and I have very little complaints so far! I really love my new Z.

What they are looking for are O2 sensors and Catalytic Converters. I believe they are also looking for the EGR, but 99% of people that don't know how to work on cars have no idea where its located anyway.

[ThisIsSparTTa]

Not sure of the name of Woody's shop but his info is at the bottom of this page, along with others: http://z32.wikispaces.com/Service+Centers

[nissanfreak12]

Not sure of the name of Woody's shop but his info is at the bottom of this page, along with others: http://z32.wikispaces.com/Service+Centers

He really doesn't have a shop, it's actually just his garage on the back side of his property. It is more of a side thing for him, not a full time gig.

[pulsar57]

Little update on this thread. Getting the rear main fixed as we speak, I decided to install a new clutch too, since mine was getting old. I went with the SZ sport clutch (just the normal disk). Probably would have made sense to go with downpipes too at that time, but I didn't (dunno know why, just didn't).

I decided that I'd like to do some mods to my car, I was not sure before, but I'd like to now. I was thinking of doing cone intake, cat-back and ECU in that order. I don't want to do anything cheaply, I was thinking of doing the JWT pop charger, SZ cat-back and probably JWT ECU as well.

I'm wondering:

1) how much power I should be able to get out of these? I think that 400bhp would be a nice goal, is that easily attainable?

2) I'd like to install these myself (to learn something), but I'm a little afraid to mess something up. Especially with the ECU, I have some family members with experience with older cars, but I don't have much myself. Is it advisable to attempt myself or better to just pay a shop to do it?

[ThisIsSparTTa]

Have you replaced your injectors with new style yet? If you have a 91 with original 370CC injectors you're just waiting for them to fail. You can either keep replacing with old style, or replace all with new style. When going new style, you could go with 370CC, but a lot of people go with Nismo 740CC. I say all this, because if you're going to upgrade your injectors, you would need to get a base tune for the new size (not if you go 370CC). http://z32.wikispaces.com/Fuel+Injector

I doubt you'll make 400bhp with what you've described so far. I was dyno tuned by SpecialtyZ in March to 360rwhp @16.5PSI, so probably a bit over 400bhp with: Dual Selin Intake, UR UD Pulley, 740CC injectors, BKR7EIX plugs, Greddy Profec Boost Controller, Full 2.5" downpipes>high flow cats, lightweight flywheel upgrade clutch, stock turbos. She pulls like a champ and is a lot of fun. I really need to get some wider wheels/tires on the rear to keep the power down, especially now with the NA rear I have (had TT during tune).

Everything can be installed, and everything can be fixed, just follow the guides. If you're not comfortable soldering the socket on the ECU, find someone else to do it. Its a cheap part, and a relatively easy job for someone in the know. In my opinion, JWT and others have their socketing fee way too high.

Also, consider SpecialtyZ over JWT. They're still doing a lot of work for the 300ZX and have excellent customer service.

[pulsar57]

Have you replaced your injectors with new style yet? If you have a 91 with original 370CC injectors you're just waiting for them to fail. You can either keep replacing with old style, or replace all with new style. When going new style, you could go with 370CC, but a lot of people go with Nismo 740CC. I say all this, because if you're going to upgrade your injectors, you would need to get a base tune for the new size (not if you go 370CC). http://z32.wikispaces.com/Fuel+Injector

I'll have to check, it may have been done before I got the car.

I doubt you'll make 400bhp with what you've described so far. I was dyno tuned by SpecialtyZ in March to 360rwhp @16.5PSI, so probably a bit over 400bhp with: Dual Selin Intake, UR UD Pulley, 740CC injectors, BKR7EIX plugs, Greddy Profec Boost Controller, Full 2.5" downpipes>high flow cats, lightweight flywheel upgrade clutch, stock turbos. She pulls like a champ and is a lot of fun. I really need to get some wider wheels/tires on the rear to keep the power down, especially now with the NA rear I have (had TT during tune).

Ahh, I guess I was being a little optimistic then. That's okay, I'm not really looking for insane speed anyways, the car is already very fast and fun to drive as is, so whatever improves it, even if a little is worth it

Everything can be installed, and everything can be fixed, just follow the guides. If you're not comfortable soldering the socket on the ECU, find someone else to do it. Its a cheap part, and a relatively easy job for someone in the know. In my opinion, JWT and others have their socketing fee way too high.

Also, consider SpecialtyZ over JWT. They're still doing a lot of work for the 300ZX and have excellent customer service.

I haven't done a ton of research yet, I've got the main repair I wanted to get done out of the way, so I'll start thinking about it... I was under the impression that the ECU install was just a matter of plugging a new chip in and installing the boost jets? I've obviously got a lot of research to do, I don't want to do anything cheaply or half-way, I'd rather not do it in that case.

Is there a prerequisite order for these basic mods, or does it really matter? And I assume a boost gauge needs to be installed with the ECU as well.

Thanks!

[ThisIsSparTTa]

The ECU is not socketed from the factory. The EEPROM is soldered into place. If you know what you're doing, you can fairly easily desolder the original chip, and solder in a socket to put in other chips.

Also, boost jets are a whole other thing. I'd recommend getting a boost controller over them. Also I assume that means you plan on trying to make near 14PSI, which means you should get an aftermarket gauge as the stock one doesn't do well at the limits.

IMO, do exhaust work before doing intake work. The stock pre-cats and cats are so restrictive that you don't see much gain from the intake until those are able to breath. Saw this recently on a friends car. He went single pop to dual pop with no gains until he put in downpipes and test pipes.

[pulsar57]

The ECU is not socketed from the factory. The EEPROM is soldered into place. If you know what you're doing, you can fairly easily desolder the original chip, and solder in a socket to put in other chips.

Also, boost jets are a whole other thing. I'd recommend getting a boost controller over them. Also I assume that means you plan on trying to make near 14PSI, which means you should get an aftermarket gauge as the stock one doesn't do well at the limits.

Ah, okay I had assumed it was socketed, but that makes sense given the age of the car. After doing a little research, a boost controller sounds like a better idea. I often get up to 12psi on my current boost gauge though, is it misreading, or am I misunderstanding it?

IMO, do exhaust work before doing intake work. The stock pre-cats and cats are so restrictive that you don't see much gain from the intake until those are able to breath. Saw this recently on a friends car. He went single pop to dual pop with no gains until he put in downpipes and test pipes.

Just got car back from shop, drives great with the new clutch. Kind of wish I had done flywheel and downpipes at the same time, but it'll probably take me some time to figure out what all I want to get out of this car.

[pulsar57]

Well, decided to go for modifications Took my car into shop to have my rough idle looked at, they found a huge crack in the left intercooler. I figured why not, so I've ordered a bunch of parts and having them installed now, I'm aiming for 400 whp. Very excited to get the car back.

I was probably the first person ever to have been happy over a busted intercooler, since it gave me the excuse to upgrade everything else at the same time.

[Ace2cool]

Haha, probably not the first. I know if I cracked an intercooler, I'd use that as a way of explaining to the boss lady that "might as well upgrade while I'm replacing." Hahaha.