Modifying stock s13 RUCAS to compensate for lowering.

[naed240sx]

So I want to do something about my rear camber, because it is at -1.9 degrees, and the rucas are adjusted as far as they will go.(Call me a *****, but I only want 1.5 degrees). I was reading about how some people slot the hole where the ruca mounts to the spindle on s13s to allow for more camber adjustment, but that this is bad because it will slip. I realized that it would be possible to weld 2 plates to one end of the ruca, and drill holes through to relocate the spindle mounting point. Basically, I would move the hole about 1/8 or 1/4 inch(probably about half the distance that the eccentric bolt is capable of moving). Here is a picture of what I am talking about:



Obviously it would make end of the ruca slightly wider, but I am sure that the mounting bolt is long enough to compensate. If not, I could pick up a longer grade 8 of the same diameter.

I could just go the easy route and buy spl's, but this seems like it would be just as effective, and of course much cheaper. So.... does this seem like a good idea or a bad idea? I plan on using plates slightly thicker than the stock material. Anything I should be careful of when doing this?

[onosqv]

It is as good as you trust your own welding ability .

And since you asked... you're a *****.

hehehe. Looks like a plan though man.

[ArticDragon192]

Do you ahve your toe within spec right now? If not, lengthening the stock RUCA will just make toe worse IIRC.

[McRussellPants]

Didn't get the answer you want on TRS so you take it to where 2 degrees of camber makes you a mad man?

hahahahahahahah

You only have 1.9 camber. Quit Crying. its not wearing your tires. its not hurting your handling.

Worry about your toe if you want to get to use a welder or something.

[ArticDragon192]

Worry about your toe if you want to get to use a welder or something.

Exactly what he said, toe will wear out your tires more than camber. massive toe in cause my tires to get worn down to the belts in the front in a matter of 2 months. Camber will cause mroe wear on the inside than the outside, but othing as significant as toe.

[naed240sx]

Exactly what he said, toe will wear out your tires more than camber. massive toe in cause my tires to get worn down to the belts in the front in a matter of 2 months. Camber will cause mroe wear on the inside than the outside, but othing as significant as toe.

MY TOE IS PERFECT IN SPEC. Camber is actually more than two now. Im not asking for opinions on camber specs, only asking if this is a good idea.

Russell, I posted this at the same time ast the trs thread, just to get additional feeback. Im pretty sure im not gonna go this route, so you guys can chill out now.

One of the main reasons of doing this was because I plan on lowering it more, and I don't want to deal with around 3 degrees.

[crzycav86]

if you lower it more your toe will be out of spec again.

[McRussellPants]

3 degrees of camber will not wear tires unevenly.

I Have upwards of 3.5 on the front and my ST115s had no camber wear at all. And still have none, even after mystery toe out drive to houston and back. (they did wear alot though)

you can run 4-5 degrees of camber if you had to and as long as you ran about 1/8th of toe in it would be good to go.

[naed240sx]

3 degrees of camber will not wear tires unevenly.

I Have upwards of 3.5 on the front and my ST115s had no camber wear at all. And still have none, even after mystery toe out drive to houston and back. (they did wear alot though)

you can run 4-5 degrees of camber if you had to and as long as you ran about 1/8th of toe in it would be good to go.

Ok, thanks for the info. Why do you think my rears are wearing then? I have only put a total of around 4k miles on them, with always less than 2.5 degrees camber. They are es100s that were used when I got them, with only slightly more wear on the insides. They are pretty much bald on the insides now, and still legal on the outsides. I have gotten alignments religiously, and after ever time I adjust my coilovers at all. Toe has always been set to stock spec. I run about 2 degrees up front, and never have any problems, but then again, they are the turning wheels that experience a lot more friction when I understeer. I can't rotate any way, because it is a directional and staggered setup. I drive the car very hard, do occasional donuts, and corner fast. The rears were never used at any drift events. I see what you are saying about how they shouldn't wear, but they are, so im not sure what to do other than reduce camber.

[ArticDragon192]

If you change camber too, the toe will cahnge, and bam, more tire wear. You sure you have the right amount of toe?

[naed240sx]

If you change camber too, the toe will cahnge, and bam, more tire wear. You sure you have the right amount of toe?

Didn't I just say that I had it aligned at toe is at factory spec?

[ArticDragon192]

Yeah, I was told that by the technician who did my alignment. Turns out it wasnt to spec and was maxed out at past 3.0 toe in.

[naed240sx]

Toe in would cause wear on the outsides of your tires. I have been there while the techs align my car. It is set to spec. I wonder how low I can go before I have to buy toe links.

[ArticDragon192]

Toe in would cause wear on the outsides of your tires. I have been there while the techs align my car. It is set to spec. I wonder how low I can go before I have to buy toe links.

Toe in and camber will cause wear across the tire, not just on the inside. I had bad camber and toe in for my rears when I lowered my car and the insides were were than the insides due to the bad camber and toe specs. IMO, just get the toe link. Not only will you be removing a future and potential mod off the parts list, but you'll be replacing a 13+ year old part with old bushing and repklacing with a completely new part with a ball joint and have the adjustability not only to have it to spec, but also to tune to whatever you want. I think anything past 2 inches of a drop would require new arms in order to keep your alignment to spec.