Modification.

[Fred D.]

1994 Q45I modified my air intake to day, I used the stock air ducts and cut the front part off.I have the opening facing the front of the grill, with a square opening to collect maximum air intake. Instead of the stock design were the black plastic two piece air ducting is routed to the drivers side head light, causing resistance and lack of cold fresh air. It is a little louder, but feels more snappy in it's throttle responce. As I drive the opening facing the grill causes a ram air air intake which engines love, because of the oxygen being forced in causes colder air which in turn causes better atomization of the fuel. The fuel burns better this information helps with performance focused engines, Infiniti engines burn a lot of fuel and only a small amount is actually burned or converted to energy/horsepower. Also better fuel and air mixture (atomization) helps with gas mileage by 1-2 MPG may not seem like much of a saving's in tell you combine the performance increase it's a win win modifacation.

[DrewQ45]

Any pics? And, whats gonna happen when it rains?

[Q45tech]

I love your excitement and experimentation.

However we tend to stick with the facts here and live and love physics. And try to do our part to help the US restore it's lost educational and scientific prowness.

Modification of air intakes [the opening that receives the brunt of the supercharging from the earth's atmoshere [14.7 PSI]] is a never ending saga of misinformation and Civil War Era ideas [1860"s].

In order for any square or round or triangular shape moving thru the air to develop a positive pressure it must travel at 138 mph to yield 0.333 psi.

Compared to the 14.7 psi natural pressure, an extra 0.33333 is miniscule [2.2%] unfortunately even the best forward facing duct is not 100% effective in gross area tapering down to the air filter.

Anyway the entire loss from the atmospheric pressure thru the oem system to the MAF side of the air filter panel is 7 inches of water column or 1/4 of a PSI.

The oem system design ALREADY takes advantage of this extra pressure effect so that at 120 mph the [what appear to you as] restrictions are transparent [covered up by the gain].

Cone filters work by reducing this oem restriction from 7" to about 2.5" yielding a 4.5/28 or 0.1607 x 0.068 =0.1093 or 1.1% improvement in reducing the restriction to air flow.

Unfortunately a 12F increase in air temperature will NEGATE any effect gained by such an air filter redesign. So a cone filter MUST have a air tight shroud to isolate the air from the hotter unhood air.................so you return to the oem like design........picking up air outside the unhood region and channelling it to a unhood filter..........losing some of the gain in the process.

Remember the greatest restriction in the whole system is the cylinder [engine] size, only so much air can be forced in to the space by the earth's pressure.

[superuber]

oh well....at least it sounds cool!!!



http://community.webshots.com/user/neheadsuperuber

[louiegz]

What's that blue thing?

[superuber]

canton racing oil filter....filters down to 8 microns.

http://community.webshots.com/user/neheadsuperuber

[DrewQ45]

canton racing oil filter....filters down to 8 microns.

http://community.webshots.com/user/neheadsuperuber

Do you use it piggy-backed to the regular oil filter, or is that now bypassed? I'm guessing it connects to the old filter mountings but haven't seen how one is connected before.

..Drew...

[superuber]

I put on a filter relocator. The lines run from the old filter mount to the new filter mount. They are not your standard lines. I had them custommade, they are 1000 psi lines. Not that I am pushing anywhere near thatbut, better safe than sorry!

http://community.webshots.com/user/neheadsuperuber

[Jesda]

superuber:

Email me please. Jesda at Q45.org. Thanks.

[louiegz]

I put on a filter relocator. The lines run from the old filter mount to the new filter mount.

That must make oil change time much easier. The oil change guys curse me when they see my car come in. They always have a hard time with the stock location. I wonder why Infiniti put the filter in such a hard to get to spot.

[superuber]

That must make oil change time much easier. The oil change guys curse me when they see my car come in. They always have a hard time with the stock location. I wonder why Infiniti put the filter in such a hard to get to spot.

Yes, it is easy! However canton claims that filter can go 15k to 20k.The filter is just an insert. The blue body is just the pretty cover. I change the filter every 10k, however I have not changed it yetbecause I only have 2k on that filter. I drain the oil every 1k. Usually filter location is an after thought by the manufacturers. Yes the Q is not fun, but it's better than some that are right next to the exhaust manifold, i love the smell of burnt flesh!

http://community.webshots.com/user/neheadsuperuber

[Q45tech]

One thing to consider [in your pictured redesign] is that inside oem filter box is a tuned stack to couple the MAF to the free space [top of air box].

This was desisigned to shape air flow and the MAF calibration: output voltage vs true air flow in grams per second fitting ecu equation may not be accurate whenever you change design. OEM spec is for MAF to be accurate within 3%.............why they went to all the expense of building what is probably the most expensive air intake ever used on a production car [not counting the flip up 60-70's muscle car units].

At worst it probably wouldn't change injector open time by more than 5-7%................so you may be spot on or leaner or richer than oem by that [some] amount.

Richer is not good obviously...........leaner is ok if you are not using software modified ecu because that would already be 10-15% leaner.

Lots of time these mods create power by fooling ecu into leaning mixture not because more air is flowing into engine.............guess the end result is what counts not how one gets there.

[maxnix]

I like the blue thing too, but it looks more difficult and potentially more messy to deal with there than the engine. At least there might be some nominal increase in total oil capacity.

In the air filter study Q45tech posted a while back, it was disappointing to see how supposedly high end brands like Baldwin and Amsoil did not fare well against OEM.

Looks cool and sounds cool is OK, but performs best is what counts with smart drivers.

[superuber]

I like the blue thing too, but it looks more difficult and potentially more messy to deal with there than the engine. At least there might be some nominal increase in total oil capacity.

In the air filter study Q45tech posted a while back, it was disappointing to see how supposedly high end brands like Baldwin and Amsoil did not fare well against OEM.

Looks cool and sounds cool is OK, but performs best is what counts with smart drivers.

Yes, 1.5 more quarts. Difficult? You pic,oe location,Put car on lift.pull all bolts out of under car cover.loosen filter.oil all over power steering pump clean off pump.install 20 micron filter.reinstall cover and all bolts.replace bolts lost or broke.drill, tap bolts that are broke.aw, forget that, just leave them out.let lift down.oil leaks out of hose covers and electric looms for 2 days.customer returns with oil leak.return to step one.OR.............................

Canton racing filter,lay down rag under filterspin off 8 micron filter.spin on 8 micron filter.

smart?

http://community.webshots.com/user/neheadsuperuber

[jimmys G50]

right so what do you do in the rain? do you not drive?

[superuber]

are you talking to me?

http://community.webshots.com/user/neheadsuperuber

[DrewQ45]

Yes, 1.5 more quarts. Difficult? You pic,oe location,Put car on lift.pull all bolts out of under car cover.loosen filter.oil all over power steering pump clean off pump.install 20 micron filter.reinstall cover and all bolts.replace bolts lost or broke.drill, tap bolts that are broke.aw, forget that, just leave them out.let lift down.oil leaks out of hose covers and electric looms for 2 days.customer returns with oil leak.return to step one.OR.............................

Canton racing filter,lay down rag under filterspin off 8 micron filter.spin on 8 micron filter.

Superuber,

I love that setup. I usually change my filter from up top and have a fumoto valve for easy drain but that filter of yours is much better.

Question, how restrictive is it? Usually, the finer particles it can filter out, the more restrictive the flow, however, I guess that could be overcome with greater filter area and your filter does seem large in comparison to a conventional filter. I wonder how long my new oil would take to turn brown with setup like that? Hmm.... cost????

[superuber]

Superuber,

I love that setup. I usually change my filter from up top and have a fumoto valve for easy drain but that filter of yours is much better.

Question, how restrictive is it? Usually, the finer particles it can filter out, the more restrictive the flow, however, I guess that could be overcome with greater filter area and your filter does seem large in comparison to a conventional filter. I wonder how long my new oil would take to turn brown with setup like that? Hmm.... cost????

restrictive, yes. it does not have a bypass so all the oil is filtered all the time. It is larger. the oil housing is for a ford filter. the big one, PH8A?You can actually hear the oil going through when you accelerate.It sounds like a jet! I got it from pegasus racing. I change the oil a lotso my oil never gets dirty.Cost?oil relocator $75oil lines $80canton filter housing with cartridge $110filter cartridges $15each

Do not use rubber hose and hose clamps for the lines! You will toast your baby!

jimmy, I don't know if you were talking to me or not.My air filter runs down inside the front bumper area.No water could get to it, it is in an area that is dry.Plus it doesn't see rain. Not your daily driver.

http://community.webshots.com/user/neheadsuperuber

[Jeff Williams]

oh well....at least it sounds cool!!!



http://community.webshots.com/user/neheadsuperuber

Good looking strut brace, you got there!

With the STILLEN POP charger in place, I can reach the oil filter from the top. I will be going back to OEM intake, since most of my driving is now around town, and the under hood temps are HOT!!!!!

If somebody would chrome the OEM intake, I think most of the people here would start liking it

[maxnix]

If somebody would chrome the OEM intake, I think most of the people here would start liking it

I am liking the black way more than chrome on resin.

Wonder if any of the "modifiers" have checked the prices on the pieces they are disabling? You really don't want to throw them away.

[superuber]

I am liking the black way more than chrome on resin.

Wonder if any of the "modifiers" have checked the prices on the pieces they are disabling? You really don't want to throw them away.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors...ZWD1V

Chrome on stock air box? Hmmm...I could double my HP with the stock box! Hmmmmmmm......I don't know that air box on ebay could break the bank!

[maxnix]

That eBay part is super cheap. Any of you guys with "custom" CAI should consider acquiring it. Wonder what that large resonance chamber does?

Something to think about for those who group think if it looks cool it must work better:

"For a successful technology, reality must take precedence over public relations, for nature cannot be fooled." - Richard P. Feynman

For those who do not recognize the name, look up the history of the Challenger Disaster investigating committee. He demonstrated with a simple table top experiment why the solid rocket booster O-rings failed at low temperatures. A genius and a fascinating individual.

[Rex]

Putting the stock box back on the car is on my To-Do list, so I'll have a (Stillen I believe) CAI cone filter/assembly (maybe 2) for sale in the near future, as well as a K&N drop in for the stock box.

[Fred D.]

I drive, even in the rain. The shape of the tube design is some what u shaped allowing for water drain out, also the opening is high up from the ground.

[Fred D.]

Q45tech good information. I completely agree about the atmospheric pressure not be greater, but I see no added restrictions besides less aerodynamics. I do think that the air temperature is a lot lower now with my design, Im sure it could be measured maybe I will do some testing to see the difference. The oem design is right next to the drivers side headlight which warms up, also restricting the amount of fresh air (cold and oxygen rich air) to the air intake.

[maxnix]

The oem design is right next to the drivers side headlight which warms up, also restricting the amount of fresh air (cold and oxygen rich air) to the air intake.

You will have to explain this as it is not true.

The intake is in a high pressure area open to external ambient air. The greatest restriction in the intake system is at the cylinder head valve opening orifice.

[Q45tech]

About every 6 months I have to go thru the test done back in 1994 and again in 2000 [when I was able to get my hands on a set of extremely sensitive manometers].

With this test equipment I can measure pressures or vacuums in 0.5 inches of water INCREMENTS. 0.5/27.7=0.018 psi. 1.0 psi/14.7 psi =6.8% so my resolution is 1/9 of a single percent of power change ability.

Measuring the pressure loss from atmosphere to the other side of oem air filter is ~~ 7"WC or ~~0.25 psi or 6.8/4=1.7% under any rpm conditions worst case [at 6900 rpm].

Surprisingly the MAF is the same number [close enough] and the two systems add to an as expected 14" W.C.

The Hose from MAF to throttle body is 2" W.C. and the Throttle Body itself is 4.5-5.5" [they vary by the exact amount of opening from car to car [tested 5 different cars]].

Measure the plenum vacuum [how much lower the pressure is inside the plenum from outside barometric pressure and it will be 20.5-21.5" W.C. or

21.5/27.7=0.776 psi BELOW ATMOSPHERIC or ~~~13.9 psi

The nice thing about accurate manometers is they reference the local barometer automatically and are thus self correcting as conditions change.

The differential pressure is always accurate with changes in barometer.

Measuring the plenum is tricky because at idle or cruise the throttle causes a negative 18-20 inch of MERCURY restriction not seen at wide open throttle which can suck the diaphram out of non robust manometers.

Anyway if you are playing in front of MAF you only have 7" to deal with for every component and a1% power increase is extremely difficult to achieve even with no filter ZERO air filter...........if you have any length of air pipe.

[Fred D.]

Im NOT talking about the amount restriction, vacuum, or qauntity of air that goes in the air intake.

Im talking about the air TEMP., the 1994 Q45 the air intake is routed to the drivers side head light the opening ends in a plastic shroud next to the head light. It doesnt get ambient air when its inclosed, ambient is out side of car not inside a plastic cover. I dont think the oem air intake was designed for power, it was most likey made for sound reduction and then secondly came considerations of restriction vacuum ect. I simply moved the opening closer to the grill, farther away from the heat produced by the engine, I dont want hot air in my air intake and my gas does'nt burn as well with hotter air. We are talking about designers that built a car over four thousand pounds, and after 1993 slow gearing, so in my mind there is a ton of room for performance modifacations, that is if you want more pep in your Infiniti's step. I like the criticism, keeps me thinking.

[Q45tech]

During the same time periods we conducted air temperature test with sensors inside oem air box, at the front of whatever was the actual air intake point, in front of TB [in duct] and actually drilled sensors into plenum.

Obviously all that counts is what is air temperature flowing passed the injector.........

Notice that the AC outside temp sensor is roughly in line with oem air horn so the two correlate quite well.

The lower to the asphalt road you measure, the hotter the air is from front car's exhaust.............air vortex at speed keeps it from rising as fast as you would think..............a high snorkle above the car will be colder by 9-12F. unless you are in with semis.

Anyway measure the air temperatures and try to find the 1/2 of 1 percent [power increase] the factory left on the table.

USE cold air from passenger compartment [wear ear plugs] at WOT [big duct and air valve and automatic rear window crack]............. you could gain 3-4% for 3-5 seconds.

[maxnix]

I'm talking about the air TEMP., the 1994 Q45 the air intake is routed to the drivers side head light the opening ends in a plastic shroud next to the head light. It doesnt get ambient air when its inclosed, ambient is out side of car not inside a plastic cover. I dont think the oem air intake was designed for power, it was most likey made for sound reduction and then secondly came considerations of restriction vacuum ect.

But you are wrong. It is a high pressure area to which the intake opens. There is no enclosure. Nissan did not get 70 ft. lbs./liter by designing an aerodynamically ineffecient intake. Intakes and exhausts can be relatively quiet and still produce optimal power. Check out the Audi R10 twin turbo diesels running at LeMans on the Speed Channel as we speak. Deathly quiet and very fast.

You really need to read more of the previous posts. Many of your assumptions are just flat-out wrong.