Mobil1 - "The final word"

[pito11213]

I have researched extensively on these boards for info on mobil synthetic oil. Me and my friend both with 90 Q's switched over to mobil 1 synthetic and experienced some "lifter tick or clatter"

Now my friend put in 10-30 and I put in 15-50.

Neither one of us had this ticking before the switch.

I believe he switched back to regular oil and now no tick. I haven't changed back yet but I think I will.

I also notice according to past posts that this seems to have some common ground with other Q owners.

I would like to get some updated opinions from the Q board and see if we can come to a final conclusion.

Please note I added a bottle of lucas oil stabilizer due to my documented blue smoke out of the exhaust issue.

Any opinions on lucas oil would also be appreciated.

[Rex]

Here's a thread to get you started, but expect Fred (PalmerWMD) to "weigh" in on this topic.

Found this by searching for "mobil AND tick*" by user PalmerWMD.

[pito11213]

I can agree with that thread. I just know that I did not have this problem prior to the mobil 1 oil switch.

[Rex]

I run the DuraBlend by Valvoline and find it hlpes clean as it has a somewhat higher detergent content. A cleaner engine is a better engine and the synth-blend should easily be less $$.

[Q451990]

What to you guys think about BG MOA plus Mobil 1? I'm trying it this time, because I get a little bit of lifter clatter (or guide tensioner slack?) after Q2 sits for a week or so. I'm also trying it in my truck, as it has some clatter at startup every day on the first start-up. It seems to be common for the truck, but the guy at the dealership parts desk said that the MOA should help. Sadly they don't sell BG44K anymore, so I guess I'll have to start ordering it - used to get it for about $14 locally so that's quite a loss

Heath

[PalmerWMD]

I am not surprised you have that problem with the 10w-30 as 30 weight Mobil1 have that sometimes.

I am however surprised at the 50 weight noise.There are many other good oils out there and otehr issues can play into it.For example Heath shouldnt be too surprised ata nosie after a week+ of sitting that is not uncommon stuff 's just gotta get re-lubed.

Other good oils to try in that price class: Valvoline SynPower 5w-40, Kendall 5w-40, Mobil1 0w-40, Valvoline Durablend 10w-40 ( hi detregnecy and still meets ACEA A3).

One new oil that's real good, even tho its only a 30 weight is Castrol Syntec 0w-30 its real thick for a 30 weight at running temps but still plenty thin at start-up. Kinda like a 0w-35 would be if tehre was such a class.

Also uses >very< hi end lube stock, but ONLY buy if it says ACEA A3 and Made in Germany on back, (they still have old stock which states neither)

Fred..

PS: Also execute a Nico search on "MB229"

[maxnix]

What to you guys think about BG MOA plus Mobil 1?

I have used it the last two oil changes in my Austin car because it sits for 4 - 6 months every year. I usually forget to pull fuel pump fuse on initial start-up, so I will have a little HLA noise for half a minute. After that, none on 10-30W M1. I don't run the car in the summer.

Also, all my engines have been envirolutioned before 60K miles.

[azskygod]

Please note I added a bottle of lucas oil stabilizer due to my documented blue smoke out of the exhaust issue.

Any opinions on lucas oil would also be appreciated.

Did the Lucas oil additive reduce or eliminate the smoke? I ask since my Q will puff a small amount of blue smoke after idling for 5-10 minutes. None otherwise.

AZSKYGOD

[maxnix]

For the lowdown on the Lucas additive, go to http://www.bobistheoilguy.com .

You will probably never use it again.

[elwesso]

Actually I get the same thing (puff of smoke), mainly when you start and go (little or no warm up).. I have THOROUGHLY investigated it and it is from the car running rich to "light up" the pre-cats....... its only when I drive after little or no warm up, and I say hit the gas to about half (but never reach 3000 RPM).....

It looks <exactly> like its burning oil but Ive investigated it and its definitely feul.....

[Jesda]

I agree with Wes. My Q consumes no oil, but I get a very light puff of smoke (gotta stand back there and hit the remote start and really stare at the exhaust).

I also had some M1 10W30 clattering, especially after sitting a while. I switched to M1 5W40 and its been perfect all year round.

-Jesda

[BadQ45t]

I just bought 6 quarts of Redline non-racing for the Q after taking out the dino-juice that the dealership has always put in. Cannot say it was dramatic but maybe a bit smoother (if that is possible with that engine).

I think that oils like Redline, Royal Purple are close enough in price it is almost worht buying those over Mobile 1 or Syntec, but I run the Valvoline, Syntec and Mobile all seem to be good. But when I think of buying before i get to the dealership or oil change place, you can get red line for the price they charge for standard Syn.

[Aus94Q45]

Very interesting link on the Lucas oil.

[PalmerWMD]

Folks here are some decent links that include lots of writing to clear up a lot of questions.

They are all a bit older but still lots of dicusssion on tihs subject.

Feel free to post into these threads even tho they are older, as the better ones could use a bump.

http://www.nissaninfiniticlub....il%2A

http://www.nissaninfiniticlub....il%2A

http://www.nissaninfiniticlub....il%2A

http://www.nissaninfiniticlub....il%2A

http://www.nissaninfiniticlub....il%2A

Fred..

[1qckser]

I have been using the Castrol green/German for about 7 months now, In the G20 I do not have anymore start up clatter, the Pathfinder and the Q are also silent, however when I was using Mobil1 in the G start up clatter was heard on a regular basis in the 10-30 wieght Mobil1.

[pito11213]

That thread on the lucas was amazing indeed. It makes me wonder.

I think I will do an oil change this weekend. I am thinking about going with the ATF flush but I also believe at this stage of this motor what the hell is the point. I have blue smoke so it is either valve seals or oil rings, I may just make it worse with the ATF. I will change the oil and update everyone on the clatter.

Please guys keep posting info on this thread so that we may use it in the future for a main oil thread.

[pito11213]

Did the Lucas oil additive reduce or eliminate the smoke? I ask since my Q will puff a small amount of blue smoke after idling for 5-10 minutes. None otherwise.

AZSKYGOD

Since you have a small puff you may be experiencing signs of valve cover seals needing to be done. Check your spark plug wells to see if there is any oil down there.

I know I have leaky valve cover seals but I do know that is not the only contributing factor for my blue smoke dilemma. I wish it was. I was thinking of trying to get my valve seals done just to try it out and do the valve covers at the same time.

[PalmerWMD]

Pito:Please also read and/or bump any of the threads I linked, sinc ethey are Nico search results threads they will only stay active for so long.

[szh]

For the lowdown on the Lucas additive, go to http://www.bobistheoilguy.com .

You will probably never use it again.

Amazing! Pretty darn clear results, I would say.

Z

[PalmerWMD]

lucas oil additive= not good, like nearly all others.

Fred..

[nuQ]

NEVER GOT A DIFINITIVE ANSWER ON THIS BEFORE,,,,,,,if i put very few miles on my Q between changes (no more than 1500 miles every 90 days), is it still necessary to be keeping up with the 4 changes a year or would twice a year be fine while running mobil 1 0W-40? the color of the oil hardly changes every switch. thanks, jeff

[maxnix]

Q45tech says no, it is a time issue also. Like you, I cheat and do two per year because of the 5K - 6K total annual mileage on the Texas Q45. I store it with a fresh change.

[PalmerWMD]

Try an oil analysis to see if your oil is good after that interval.Blackstone labs has a kit they send you and you send bakc a sample of your oil.

Dennis may crucify me (sorry dennis...) but I think if you use a full synthetic oil and a premium filter, going over 90 days won't be past the oils ability, especially if your duty cycle is easy and your milage .

On the other hand I have seen UOA's with some dino oils that are shot after 2500 miles of in town driving.

Fred..

[elwesso]

Personally, I get VERY uncomfortable when I run my Q over 90 days... I did about 2000 miles last time, and it was black as night (went a few days over! gasp!)... I dont use the highest quality oil i can find, but I use a good dyno or a blend... $20 every 3 month is no biggie...

IMHO (Fred dont read this ) I would rather see you use a "lesser" quality oil and change it more frequently then use a really good oil and think you can go a long time.....

[qship96]

Wes,something must need alot of cleaning up if your oil is really black as night after only 2,000 miles.I regularly go 5-6,000 miles in 90 day changes with Redline oil and it is still amber at changeout,with 142,000 miles on the clock,and Redline is known to have aggressive detergent additives in it.

[elwesso]

Most of my driving invovles it not getting warmed up all the way...

I wont say it was black as night, but it was defintely dark and ready to be changed... what that tells me is the valvoline durablend is working and cleaning up stuff...

[maxnix]

IMHO (Fred dont read this ) I would rather see you use a "lesser" quality oil and change it more frequently then use a really good oil and think you can go a long time.....

The best oil is fresh oil. Non-synthetic just degrades more rapidly. Of course, if the clearances are beyond specification, any oil is going to be bad very soon.

Two to ten minute earlier starts allow warming to correct operating temperature.

[qship96]

Most of my driving invovles it not getting warmed up all the way...

I wont say it was black as night, but it was defintely dark and ready to be changed... what that tells me is the valvoline durablend is working and cleaning up stuff...

cleaning up what stuff though? if you have been doing regular changes,there should be very little to clean up-you sound like a good candidate to get an oil analysis done- maybe the q is running rich dumping fuel into the oil,or there is a slight leak in the air intake,bypassing the filtration?an analysis will show where the problem may be.

[elwesso]

I know my Q doesnt run rich or anything. It runs perfect and I have seen as high as 24/25 MPG.....

Everything else is good, its just a little dirty, and as Ive found out its really starting to get cleaned up

[qship96]

maybe the disconnected exhaust gas recirculation valve is messing with the air/fuel ratio,that would make sense,since the computer thinks it is getting more air{exhaust} than it is really getting?just a hunch!