mobil 1 maybe,maybe not

[captainluigi]

had an oil change at a place i had never done bus. with previously. requested mobil 1 5w30 & a puralator pure one filter. paid the upcharge. got home & was checking under hood for anything. noticed oil filter was white instead of blue as the pure one is in a blue canister. pulled dipstick and see that they poured in 7 qts. instead of 6 3/8. probably no big deal or is it? the oil looked much darker than the mobil 1. i used a white paper towel comparison. with only 10 miles on this oci i think maybe i was had. is ther any way to tell if the oil in eng. is mobil 1 short of spectrum analysis?

[elwesso]

my guess is they didnt change the oil.

ALL oil, regardless of brand looks pretty much the same, a sort of honey color.

The pure one filters are DEFINITELY blue, i used them last 2 times on my Q.

Even if your motor is hardcore dirty, the oil will still look clean after 10 miles.

[silver2k2]

That is one reason I change the oil myself. If I was forced to take it in I would find place that I could watch from the waiting room or stand out side and supervise the work from the parking lot

[silver2k2]

That is one reason I change the oil myself. If I was forced to take it in I would find place that I could watch from the waiting room or stand out side and supervise the work from the parking lot

my guess is they didnt change the oil.

ALL oil, regardless of brand looks pretty much the same, a sort of honey color.

The pure one filters are DEFINITELY blue, i used them last 2 times on my Q.

Even if your motor is hardcore dirty, the oil will still look clean after 10 miles.

[qship96]

I will only let my oil be changed if I am standing there talking to the tech while I inspect the undercarriage,looking for any issues that may need addressing{I look at shocks for signs of leaking,all rubber bushings,rack & diff. boots for cracks,leaking fluids from engine/transmission/diff,check exhaust ,tires,etc} I want to be sure my synthetic oil makes it into my engine and that they secure that damn sheild correctly{I keep a supply of extra OEM bolts for it in the trunk}

[captainluigi]

lesson re-learned again again.

[maxnix]

In FL I would be running 10W-30 M1. 5W-30 is really formulated more for the great white north.

Make sure your undershield tray is still attached.
Modified by maxnix at 10:22 AM 8/22/2007

[thekidzkid25]

i wouldnt run mobil one in anything i own...we build engines for race cars and one our customers grenaded a motor b/c of running mobil1, we later found out that there is any good quailties in the oil, and if u get on a subie forum theres plenty of posts about guys that decided to run mobil one for the first time and a week later they blew the motor..if u plan on running any of the mobil1 oils the gold cap is better then nothing...its ur call though

[qship96]

the oil had nothing to do with the poor engine rebuild....

[elwesso]

i wouldnt run mobil one in anything i own...we build engines for race cars and one our customers grenaded a motor b/c of running mobil1, we later found out that there is any good quailties in the oil, and if u get on a subie forum theres plenty of posts about guys that decided to run mobil one for the first time and a week later they blew the motor..if u plan on running any of the mobil1 oils the gold cap is better then nothing...its ur call though

Thats completely stupid to think that the OIL caused the motors to fail. If it was truely BRAND NEW M1 oil, theres no way it caused the motor to fail. I ran M1 in my Q for a year.

[AlabamaDan]

Yeah, I've quit carring my car to someone else.

I run M1 with no probs. Even switched to it during the higher miles.

[qship96]

The scary part of that lame statement is that the poster lists his occupation as a mechanic in his profile-confirms that wrench turners dont know squat about oils

[texasoil]

While I believe (with sound technical reasons) that M-1 is overpriced, it IS a GREAT product. Howeve, some engine designs have experienced excessive wear due to its lower anti-wear additive (ZDDPT) content. Newer engines with overhead cams with roller rockers do much better than those with conventional rockers. Earlier MBZ had severe wear on the rocker tips, but not cam lobes. Later engines have cam lobe issues. Some BMW engines failed due to cylinder surface coating failure requiring replacement.

I'll say it one more time--a major brand 'premium' line oil will serve our passengar car engines estrememly well, enabling life of 300,000+ miles IF we change if regularly at reasonable mileage for the drivin conditions, use high quality,effective filters--oil AND air- each changed when appropriate, AND HIGH QUALITY fuel. Cheap gasoline equals short engine life in most circumstances.

The lifetime ownership cost (say 200K miles,15 years) is surprisingly small for oil and filter changes every 3-4K as compared to 6-8K. Unless one drives 30+ miles in clean air (no dust, no salt, DRY) with each start-up, long change intervals will not provide wear and corrosion protection sufficient for very long engine life.

[Q451990]

pulled dipstick and see that they poured in 7 qts. instead of 6 3/8. probably no big deal or is it?

In spite of any labels or owner's manual information, the correct oil fill is 6.0000000 quarts with a new filter. Infiniti revised this later on.

Overfilling the oil can cause some issues with irregular idle, etc. I would go ahead and get all of this redone since you don't think it was done correctly anyway. Oh, and you should be able to get your $$ back from the first oil change place - especially if you paid with a credit card

Heath

[Skibane]

is ther any way to tell if the oil in eng. is mobil 1 short of spectrum analysis?

If you're willing to spend 5+ bucks to find out, buy a quart at your local Wal-Mart/Auto Zone/Pep Boys and compare its color, smell, etc. with what's on your dipstick -

(Never hurts to have a spare quart on hand anyway...)

[StarPD]

In spite of any labels or owner's manual information, the correct oil fill is 6.0000000 quarts with a new filter. Infiniti revised this later on.

Overfilling the oil can cause some issues with irregular idle, etc. I would go ahead and get all of this redone since you don't think it was done correctly anyway. Oh, and you should be able to get your $$ back from the first oil change place - especially if you paid with a credit card

Heath

Overfilling the crankcase on a wet sump motor is a no-no. Too much oil and the crank spinning through it whips it into a froth. Those air bubbles in the froth will not lubricate the engine very well, and can end up costing you at least bearings, and possibly a crankshaft, expensive parts.

Always fill to Mfr specification, and check level frequently to avoid it getting too low. Hard cornering can sling the oil in the pan up against the side of the pan, even with baffles, causing the oil pump to suck air and send it instead of oil to the motor if the level is much below specs, not a good thing. I never let my oil get below 1/4 quart low.

[maxnix]

Overfilling the crankcase on a wet sump motor is a no-no. Too much oil and the crank spinning through it whips it into a froth.

Service manager told me a story of when the G50 first appeared, there was a certain hill in Seattle where when the car was stopped on it, the back of the crank would slap the surface of the oil and cause an abnormal vibration. Japanese engineers came over to exsperience it themselves. I wouldn't be surprised if the baffling was a silent runnning change.

When I do the Envirolution crankcase flush, it takes about 6.25 qts. to refill.

[grunze]

Funny you should mention the shield and missing bolts. I had no knowledge of it until the guy putting in the Mobil 1 at the last change pointed out the problem. Now the shield is hanging. Did you get the bolts from Joe?

[maxnix]

The bolts are easy, it's the correct clips that are a little trickier. Joe will have both.

[AlabamaDan]

I don't even have a shield. Are they really important?

[maxnix]

For proper airflow management for cooling and protecting the alternator and AC compressor drive, yes.

I have to wonder why owners think the engineers just added parts to the car for the hell of it?

[grunze]

It's a lot like God and our bodies. Years ago I talked to an EENT Dr about a deviated septum and some uvula problems. He decided that while he was fixing the septum he would cut a little off of the uvula. When he finished I had no uvula and the argument was that it had no function anyway. (I also think that he had found an unusual specimen that he could put in a jar of formaldehyde to show his friends.) After many years of swallowing and choking problems I am here to tell you that the Almighty Engineer knew exactly what he was doing.

[bullittandy]

For proper airflow management for cooling and protecting the alternator and AC compressor drive, yes.

I have to wonder why owners think the engineers just added parts to the car for the hell of it?

Manufacturers/ engineers/people do all kinds of stupid sh*t. Like:

Q45-use too small a transmission cooler-use plastic on chain guides-use cheap leather that cracks

other cars:-make radiators out of plastic-anylighting system on a newer volvo-everything electric on a BMW

You need more examples? I can get tens of thousands.

[elwesso]

That plastic shield pisses me off big time. I took mine off, mainly because all the bolts snapped off so it wont even stay up right. the PO used a bunch of self tapping screws to hold it up, so I have a bunch of holes.