Mobil 1 10/30 okay for 70K M?

[Teknic73]

just bought a case of M1 10/30. ideally this is proper weight for 70K right? or should i get some 5/30?

[szh]

just bought a case of M1 10/30. ideally this is proper weight for 70K right? or should i get some 5/30?

Since you are in California (correct?), for Mobil 1 either 10W-30 or 5W-30 will generally work quite fine, so don't worry about the case you just bought. However, my advice for the next case will be a different though!

Mobil 1 tends to run a bit thinner than other synthetics, according to an oil expert who occasionally posts here at NICO. So, I'd suggest a 40 weight Mobil 1 for the high end of the range for the next case! For example, I use Mobil 1 0W-40 with excellent results, although 10W-40 should be okay for summer months too. The only thing is that 0W-40 is not always easy to find at all place ... local Kragens have them though. The price is the same for all these Mobil 1 synthetics.

More importantly, do regular oil and filter changes, at most 3750 miles apart, and you will be fine with any good engine oil - synthetic or a good dino! I prefer synthetic myself, fwiw, of course! Just don't stretch the interval in the hope that synthetic gives you highly increased oil longevity - this is one of those "penny-wise-pound-foolish" issues!

If this is a 2003/2004 M45, then also check the oil regularly at 500 to 1000 mile intervals (cold engine, level ground, like right in the morning before driving) and replenish if the level is getting close to the low end of the dipstick. The VH45 engine, if not properly broken in, can consume some small amount oil in those intervals ... search for threads about "oil consumption" here in this forum to understand the concern. I do not yet know if this is an issue for the 2006 M35 or 2006 M45 engines ...

Z

[Teknic73]

I'd suggest a 40 weight Mobil 1 for the high end of the range for the next case! For example, I use Mobil 1 0W-40 with excellent results, although 10W-40 should be okay for summer months too.

i'll deffinitley try it out on the next change!

More importantly, do regular oil and filter changes, at most 3750 miles apart, and you will be fine with any good engine oil - synthetic or a good dino! I prefer synthetic myself, fwiw, of course! Just don't stretch the interval in the hope that synthetic gives you highly increased oil longevity - this is one of those "penny-wise-pound-foolish" issues!

If this is a 2003/2004 M45, then also check the oil regularly at 500 to 1000 mile intervals.

I change oil/filter religouslly every 3.500.

although the reason why I just did an oil change is because i started to hear somewhat of a puttering/ticking sound, i hoped this would help. it seems as if helped a little, but i think i can hear it still slightly or it's just in my head

[szh]

I change oil/filter religouslly every 3.500.

Good!

although the reason why I just did an oil change is because i started to hear somewhat of a puttering/ticking sound, i hoped this would help. it seems as if helped a little, but i think i can hear it still slightly or it's just in my head

May also be time for a BG44K (do not substitute) injector cleaning session too. You can get this from http://www.everythinginfiniti.com (or call them - ad is on the right of this screen - and ask for Joe Tsensky) or from various eBay places. Costs about $14 to $20 for the 11oz can depending on your source.

If you get the 11oz can, pour it into your gas tank (use a long funnel - it is too easy to get it outside the gas tank and down the side of your car!) and then fill it immediately to about 10 to 12 gallons of gas (just about or over half full), then drive normally till the gas tank is low. This should clean things up a lot and remove/reduce the ticking. If you need to repeat, wait for one more full gas tank worth of driving and repeat the treatment with a second can of BG44K. Don't repeat again till some few thousand miles have gone by!

You do not want to do BG44K too often, but every few thousand miles (like every oil change) is a good idea if you are hearing ticking. A heavier weight oil may help too, but I am not an expert on that! Next time the oil is low, just add in some 10W-40 (any good dino, like Castrol GTX, or synthetic will be fine) to bring it back up to normal.

If two BG44K cleans do not work to remove/reduce the clicking, then it may be time for a rail flush at the dealer to clean the injectors and get rid of deposits on your valves (make sure that they do a proper rail flush, not just another BG44K session and charging you for more!)

Hope this helps out ... good luck and let us know how it goes!

Z

[Q45tech]

Mobil 1 tends to run a bit thinner than other synthetics

All oils must meet SAE viscosity standards vs temperature for the particular grade................however the test temperature is 212F and there are no numbers for higher temperatures.

If anything I would expect synthetic to be much thicker at higher temperatures than conventional oils.

So called High Mileage oils just are thicker [near the upper end of the boundry] vs regular oil which center around midpoint of boundry.

A High Mileage oil could be considered a 10 W 34.999 vs a 10W30.

Oil viscosity should be selected by measuring the idle oil pressure after a few hours of HOT interstate driving............just as you pull off.

Worst case situation is hot idle when the viscosity counts.

Too much viscosity may open the bypass valve in oil filter at startup and interstate 70+ cruising..................a balance game.

[Teknic73]

Thank you guys so much for all the great info. i'm really eager too try the BG44K stuff

[jEzTeR]