moar low!!!

Forum for the Xterra, Frontier and Hardbody, the smaller workhorses of the Nissan lineup!
FrodoHardbody
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Joined: Wed Jul 17, 2013 10:38 am
Car: 1995 Nissan hard body
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I have a 95 hardbody, base model single cab 5 speed, ka24e

The truck is lowered as it is, but I have to the habit of going as low as I can go.
The fronts about as low as it'll go, could take the torsion bars down a little (never had a truck so I'm just going on what dude told me.) The rear is mono leafed (which I don't like because it seems very Dangerous) and I want to put the other back in but still go lower.

So, here is my idea.
Put on both springs, remove bump stops (that what I'm sitting on now), and add maybe 1.5"-2" blocks under the axles.

Is this a good idea?
Are there other routes that I can take, Without spending to much monies, as I would like to do a s13 rear sub frame in the future.

the idea for no is to have a clean slammed hardbody that I can daily.
Any input is appreciated, unless it bashing.


FrodoHardbody
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Car: 1995 Nissan hard body
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i do plan on drilling out the rear leaf spring front brackets a little higher up but thats only be half inch or so.

FrodoHardbody
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Car: 1995 Nissan hard body
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No input?

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Rev_D21
Posts: 5946
Joined: Sun Jan 12, 2003 9:49 pm
Car: 1986.5 D21 LB HD 2WD V6 5Speed
1991 D21 Reg 2WD Auto
1995 D21 Reg 2WD 5Spd
1996 D21 Reg 4WD 5Spd
2012 Versa 1.6S 5-Speed
Location: Somwhere in Western NY
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Not too many low riders in here sadly. I have lowered mine but nothing radical, just a nice sporty setup for cruising and autocrossing. Some peeps like to bag em, others go the static route. It's all up to you. But I have seen some frame laying static drops that will blow your mind. Probably handle like a** but they got a look all their own. The topic has been covered millions of times since the hardbody came out in 1986 so I say search and the answer is out there. How you go about it will depend on how you intend to use the truck.


If it helps the truck in my sig is running 2" blocks with a pulled overload leaf and turned torsions. It looks lower than it really is because the flares. I run wider tires and wheels for autoX so the flares help keep the tires from poking.

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Handles good but required replacing the bushings all the way around, a rear sway bar and KYB monotube shocks. It may not be what you are wanting to do to yours, it's just running the set up up your were taking about in your first post.

Welcome to NICO BTW.

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longtooth
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Joined: Wed Jan 27, 2010 9:52 pm
Car: 89 d21 HB
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You can put in Belltech 2.5 inch drop spindles in the front and then slam it more by adjusting the torsion rods.
If you put in 3 inch blocks in the rear you will be 1 inch away from the bump stops. So if you put in the 3 or 4 inch blocks and relocate your rear leaf front mount your probably going to have to notch your frame for added clearance.

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SR204Life
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Joined: Fri May 18, 2007 10:04 am
Car: 1987 Toyota Cressida/SR20det

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longtooth wrote:You can put in Belltech 2.5 inch drop spindles in the front and then slam it more by adjusting the torsion rods.
If you put in 3 inch blocks in the rear you will be 1 inch away from the bump stops. So if you put in the 3 or 4 inch blocks and relocate your rear leaf front mount your probably going to have to notch your frame for added clearance.
Frodo I agree with Longtooth.... I recently bought a 91 hardbody and I am in a huge hurry to drop it. I didn't buy the truck for truck reasons so we can throw that idea straight out the window, I bought it as a daily to slam.
I have already installed 3" drop blocks in the rear and redrilled my leaf hangers and those two mods dropped the bed about 4.5" give or take a smudge. The fronts are torsioned (previous owner and not my idea) I will be purchasing those FLCAs from.... Forget the company but they make 3" dropped control arms, I think maybe it's DJM. Then I will look into the drop spindles from Belltech.


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