Yeah, its way easier when the car has the engine from factory, but I guess I'm destined to suffer the same issues eventually. Lots of goodies dropped in the car and I haven't been able to enjoy it cause of this.
Dee, you got mail.
Misfire on boost / high rpms
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boost_boy
- Posts: 7051
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Re: (Cams)
You got mail as well!Cams wrote: Yeah, its way easier when the car has the engine from factory, but I guess I'm destined to suffer the same issues eventually. Lots of goodies dropped in the car and I haven't been able to enjoy it cause of this.
Dee, you got mail.
Dee
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Cams
- Posts: 307
- Joined: Sat Jan 27, 2007 3:42 am
- Car: 1993 Nissan 200sx CA18(DET) RS13
2002 Mitsubishi Airtrek JDM 4G63T (wife)
2013 Scion FR-S
2016 Infiniti QX50 - Location: Panama, Central America
Hi, sorry to revive my demise, ... again.
Received the Coil Packs from Dee (thanks btw) with the exact same results.
By luck I found the following post, quoted from Nissansilvia.com, referring about SR20s but it seems to apply to my issue:http://www.nissansilvia.com/fo...=2820
"The knock sensor on the SR20 can become faulty from now and them This is a condition where the engine runs perfectly cold, and then after a few minutes of hot running loses all power and borders on almost undriveable. It is not overly common but is capable of costing you a fair bit of diagnostic time. The only solution is to source either a 2nd hand unit frm a wreckers or to purchase a new sensor from the dealer."
What should I look for in regards the Knock Sensor? My ECU gives Code 55, but should I consider replacing it? Bypassing it with a resistor? Disconnecting it? I guess checking the plug and cleaning down there would be a good start, but just in case, what would be the Part Numbers of the bits involved?
As always, any input is welcomed.
Received the Coil Packs from Dee (thanks btw) with the exact same results.
By luck I found the following post, quoted from Nissansilvia.com, referring about SR20s but it seems to apply to my issue:http://www.nissansilvia.com/fo...=2820
"The knock sensor on the SR20 can become faulty from now and them This is a condition where the engine runs perfectly cold, and then after a few minutes of hot running loses all power and borders on almost undriveable. It is not overly common but is capable of costing you a fair bit of diagnostic time. The only solution is to source either a 2nd hand unit frm a wreckers or to purchase a new sensor from the dealer."
What should I look for in regards the Knock Sensor? My ECU gives Code 55, but should I consider replacing it? Bypassing it with a resistor? Disconnecting it? I guess checking the plug and cleaning down there would be a good start, but just in case, what would be the Part Numbers of the bits involved?
As always, any input is welcomed.
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bentvalves
- Posts: 1435
- Joined: Sun Sep 03, 2006 8:58 am
- Car: 89 Silvia K's
Re: (rico05)
CAMS, did you ever end up fixing the problem.
if so update this thread with the remedy mate.
if so update this thread with the remedy mate.
Just a quick addition to this thread, and hopefully will help others..
When using the diagnostics on the ecu just be wary that it only identifies if the ecu can detect the sensor through a closed circuit.
It does not tell you if the sensor itself is faulty upon operation..
Code 55 is the ecu's way of telling you:
"Hey I can see that all the required sensors are responding when poled so I know there is no circuit issues, but I can't tell you if those sensors are providing me with the correct data. You need to check the sensors with a multimeter if you are troubleshooting problems."
When using the diagnostics on the ecu just be wary that it only identifies if the ecu can detect the sensor through a closed circuit.
It does not tell you if the sensor itself is faulty upon operation..
Code 55 is the ecu's way of telling you:
"Hey I can see that all the required sensors are responding when poled so I know there is no circuit issues, but I can't tell you if those sensors are providing me with the correct data. You need to check the sensors with a multimeter if you are troubleshooting problems."
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Cams
- Posts: 307
- Joined: Sat Jan 27, 2007 3:42 am
- Car: 1993 Nissan 200sx CA18(DET) RS13
2002 Mitsubishi Airtrek JDM 4G63T (wife)
2013 Scion FR-S
2016 Infiniti QX50 - Location: Panama, Central America
Hi, in the end my particular stuttering on high rpms issue was a bad CAS. As it got hotter in the engine bay the issue got worse. Sadly it was like the last possible part I replaced. Figured it out by monitoring the behavior with a Wideband and fuel pressure gauge, as it was cutting fuel but I was not detonating, so it had to be something that controls spark and injectors pulse.
Had even swapped ECU at that point.
Had even swapped ECU at that point.
Re: (Cams)
dam, you replaced everything. i happy for you that it finally runs good. does it still smoke?
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Cams
- Posts: 307
- Joined: Sat Jan 27, 2007 3:42 am
- Car: 1993 Nissan 200sx CA18(DET) RS13
2002 Mitsubishi Airtrek JDM 4G63T (wife)
2013 Scion FR-S
2016 Infiniti QX50 - Location: Panama, Central America
Bought the car with an adapted smokey Hitachi turbo that is supposed to be used on Terranos.
Got a T25g rebuilt before the whole stuttering issue, but I overboosted the poor sob earlier this year.
Now its running pretty good with a GT28r and HDev stage 2 chip at 14 psi, except for a mild cough on idle and some rattle noises when oil is cold.
Time to start saving for a rebuild next year.
Got a T25g rebuilt before the whole stuttering issue, but I overboosted the poor sob earlier this year.
Now its running pretty good with a GT28r and HDev stage 2 chip at 14 psi, except for a mild cough on idle and some rattle noises when oil is cold.
Time to start saving for a rebuild next year.