Minor problems...(not so newbie)

[Yahnozha]

Damn, what a way to introduce myself to the KA community. First off, I guess an intro is in order...the name is Pat, this is the second KA powerd vehicle ive owned, granted its a 93' Hardbody 4x4, bone stock and was purchased with 200,000 on the origional motor KA24E. 8,000 miles later while my g/f's father was borrowing the truck, the thermostat must have gone out and he didnt catch the rise in temperature in time. Needless to say water is spewing out the intake manifold, and there is oil/water mixture in the head, and elsewhere im sure. I havent torn it down past the VC yet, but my guess is a blown head gasket and/or a warped head.

The questions, and yes Ive done my homework and searched, but there is a bunch of info that contradicts one another. But to state, this is my work truck and I dont want to throw tons of cash at this thing. Compression was reading good before the overheat so I know that should still be in working order.

1) Cheaper to rebuld or swap motors? KA24E's are pretty cheap and so are KA24DE's. If anyone hase either, I'd be pretty interested if the price is right and you can ship the motor.

2) If swapping a DE into it, some threads say a new ECU and wiring harness is in order, some say it will bolt right up with no wiring mods. If I go the swap route, I will be using the origional IM and Exhaust headers. Just need some clarification on that one. My guess is it should go in without wiring mods...

3) More of a comment: Ive noticed in past threads KA truck owners are usually given the cold shoulder by this community, I hope this isnt the case this time.

Just to let you know, Im pretty handy, if I rebuild Ill do all the machine work myself.

My go fast car is a 99' G20 ,SR20DE maxed with bolt ons. Currently 178,000 miles and shes still pulling strong. Ive got a second motor being built by me that will be turbo'd when the play money is more plentiful. I moderate over on http://www.g20.net/forum/ , like moonlit walks in the desert, and sushi is the way to this mans heart

Thanks in advance.

[deviousKA]

well, because this a 4x4, it is difficult to swap any 240 engine in (e or de) because of physical limitations (mainly oil pan/ka main cap girdle). The 240s have a different design block (mainly the rear of the block where it bolts to transmission, they also use different offset flywheels and starter motors). Efi wise, the swap to de would be similar to that of a 89-90 with de swap.

I think that to keep it much easier, you should stick with the e. It can be cheaper to find a used engine and swap it in, but with all the work/money etc involved you might as well get a new engine out of the deal. Pull it further apart, find the main problems, and go from there. If you shortblock and block deck are in good condition, only headwork may be in order. With over heating like you say, you are probably looking at a head that at least needs to be decked/straightened and possibly a ditched block deck. If you feel that you can rebuild/fix it yourself, by all means do that.

btw. e/de use different intake and exhaust manifolds, they are not compatible. Oh and if you happen to run across an de engine originally designed for use in truck, disregard the block difference info.

Working with newer nissan/toyota trucks is what i do for a living, so any information you should need, i or someone else on these boards should be able to help.

Good Luck!

[Yahnozha]

devious: thanks for the clarification on the block differences between the truck and car KA24's that helps out immensly. Ill be pulling the head in the next day or so. Finally got the IM off and just need to yank the exhaust header now. Im hoping its just the head. Id hate to resurface the block if I dont have to...that would just suck

Out of curisoity, will the head come off by just removing the gear from the cam...I really dont want to loose my timing and was planning on just zip tying the chain to the gear and slide the head over that. Looks like there is enough clearance.

Thanks.

[deviousKA]

To keep the timing chain in the right position when pulling head, First put the engine up on TDC (both cam and crank pin/keys at 12oclock). Then what you do is get a medium sized wedge block (you can buy them from nissan, or ther places, or make your own out of wood) and wedge it between the chain right under the upper gear. This will keep the lower part of the chain tight, and allow you to remove the upper gear.

Be sure to remove the 4 small 6mm bolts that attach the timing cover to the front of the head, as well as removing the headbolts and upper gear.

Ill try search of a nice picture or something that shows wedging the chain, It is the same procedure on ka24e as it is on all the older nissan sohc engines.

Here it is, explained in slightly more detail Datsun Tech Tip

[Yahnozha]

right on...its very similar to the wood wedge used for the same thing on swapping cams in the SR20.

[Yahnozha]

Okay, I pulled the head and its warped. I dont have an FSM or Haynes (ill pick one up soon) but was wondering what the specs are for machining the head.

Laying a straight edge along the mating surface of the head, I can get a 0.015" feeler gage under that in the center and 0.013" inbetween 1-2 and 3-4 cylinders....these dimensions extend around the perimeter of the piston reliefs.

I can machine this here at my shop, I was just wondering if this head is still in spec? Ill have to remove about 0.015" on either end to match up with the middle readings.

I havent checked the block yet, that will be tomorrow when I clean off the old gasket material. Hopefully that will still be good.

On a side note...looks like Ill be tearing off the lower oil pan...like a doofas, I dropped 1 washer and 1 bolt down in the timing chain area. I guess thats a good thing, I needed to flush out that oil pan anyway...

[deviousKA]

Make sure your cam spins easily when the cam tower/rocker assembly is torqued down. If it does, the head is not warped badly, and you can take that .015 down yourself.

[Yahnozha]

The cam spun alright before I dissassmebled it, considreing the force of the springs and such. And I just got done resurfacing the head and I took off 0.016" to get a nice clean surface. I took everything off the head to do the machining and I have still yet to find a Haynes manual for the torque values, was wondering if you could help me out with that...

Got the proper sequence on the head bolts (22-58 loosen then 22-59 ft lbs)

What I need are the cam journal values, intake and exhaust manifold values as well. I think thats about it...all the other are not really as important as these ones...