Any update on your active suspension?
If our cars sit that low when the active suspension is off, it can only mean one thing... Actuators are flat, correct?
Since the system is off when the car is off, it's relying on the charge of the actuators to keep it at a normal ride height when the hydraulics arn't pumping, or am I missing something?
Miniman...
Thanks to Mark, I've taken the car to a shop called Ernesto's in Las Vegas. It's been there for a couple days now and is currently being professionally diagnosed. They were supposed to get back to my friends down there yesterday, but forgot. Should've heard from them today regarding the active suspension and what I believe to be a fuel pump or fuel pump relay problem. Though I haven't called Vegas yet today, I may call them tommorow.
Actually, my theory behind what's wrong with our cars is that they either developed a leak or electrical problems. Whether gradual or sudden the fluid may have dissipated from the suspension system. This could be caused by a hose coming off, breaking, etc. Or it could be the failure of any one of the numerous parts in the system. I simply can't see someone driving the cars into the ground though. After 100k miles of daily driving or 30K miles of track driving it doesn't seam realistic for someone to drive the cars until the actuators are 100% completely empty. It seams most people tend to replace them while they still have 2-3" of travel remaining (out of 5" when new). The distance as new from the upper most section of the outer fender to the center of the wheel should be 14.72" to 15.51" for the front wheels and 13.82" to 14.61" for the rear. You should be able to get a good guesstimate based on that to tell whether or not your FAS is working at all.
Any shop can easily check if the active controller is functional or not by checking voltage and resistance according to the FSM. Once the voltage check turns out fine they can further determine errors through CONSULT.
BTW, you can raise and lower your car simply by adjusting the height sensors at each wheel... though I wouldn't reccommend it as this method doesn't seam to stiffen the suspension and therefore wouldn't be safe (please correct me if I'm wrong Q45tech or texasoil). I'd compare this to chopping the springs on your regular car.
I got a code 45 which is "Oil Level Too Low". In my case, I believe I may have developed a leak. Once you get your height control working you can do the self diagnostic and get the error code. Once you do we should be able to discover what the problem is via the FSM.
At this point in time, if you spend the $300 or so it costs for a complete fluid flush and replacement it may ALL leak out. The only benefit you'd receive from that is that you'd then know where the leak is...
Corey
Actually, my theory behind what's wrong with our cars is that they either developed a leak or electrical problems. Whether gradual or sudden the fluid may have dissipated from the suspension system. This could be caused by a hose coming off, breaking, etc. Or it could be the failure of any one of the numerous parts in the system. I simply can't see someone driving the cars into the ground though. After 100k miles of daily driving or 30K miles of track driving it doesn't seam realistic for someone to drive the cars until the actuators are 100% completely empty. It seams most people tend to replace them while they still have 2-3" of travel remaining (out of 5" when new). The distance as new from the upper most section of the outer fender to the center of the wheel should be 14.72" to 15.51" for the front wheels and 13.82" to 14.61" for the rear. You should be able to get a good guesstimate based on that to tell whether or not your FAS is working at all.
Any shop can easily check if the active controller is functional or not by checking voltage and resistance according to the FSM. Once the voltage check turns out fine they can further determine errors through CONSULT.
BTW, you can raise and lower your car simply by adjusting the height sensors at each wheel... though I wouldn't reccommend it as this method doesn't seam to stiffen the suspension and therefore wouldn't be safe (please correct me if I'm wrong Q45tech or texasoil). I'd compare this to chopping the springs on your regular car.
I got a code 45 which is "Oil Level Too Low". In my case, I believe I may have developed a leak. Once you get your height control working you can do the self diagnostic and get the error code. Once you do we should be able to discover what the problem is via the FSM.
At this point in time, if you spend the $300 or so it costs for a complete fluid flush and replacement it may ALL leak out. The only benefit you'd receive from that is that you'd then know where the leak is...
Corey
As well Ryan, there's no question in my mind you are riding solely on the springs... I remember the ride... it was B-R-U-T-A-L!
I'll post up here once I have the diagnostic results for my Q.
I forgot to mention, aaacomp is always selling FAS setups from Q45a's that have done the swap (those poor Qs, less we forget). I believe he sells them at $100!!! If you need any replacement parts and are going to go used, go with him
.
Corey
I'll post up here once I have the diagnostic results for my Q.
I forgot to mention, aaacomp is always selling FAS setups from Q45a's that have done the swap (those poor Qs, less we forget). I believe he sells them at $100!!! If you need any replacement parts and are going to go used, go with him
.Corey
Nice post.
I want to get the system functioning 100% new. I am thinking of recharging all 9 actuators.. I have the 4 main ones as spares, so maybe I will buy the remaining ones from aaacomp.. I don't want to have any down time.. Unfortunately this is my daily driver so I may have to take a rough ride for some time
I want to get the system functioning 100% new. I am thinking of recharging all 9 actuators.. I have the 4 main ones as spares, so maybe I will buy the remaining ones from aaacomp.. I don't want to have any down time.. Unfortunately this is my daily driver so I may have to take a rough ride for some time
Quote »BTW, you can raise and lower your car simply by adjusting the height sensors at each wheel... though I wouldn't reccommend it as this method doesn't seam to stiffen the suspension and therefore wouldn't be safe (please correct me if I'm wrong Q45tech or texasoil). I'd compare this to chopping the springs on your regular car.[/quote]
I'm wondering if this is how Stillen lowered the car, or if they did something with the ECU. Perhaps the mag article will shed more light on this subject. Although from what people remember about the article even the Nissan engineers were suprised how well the lowering worked with the suspension and seemed to enhance it.
I'm wondering if this is how Stillen lowered the car, or if they did something with the ECU. Perhaps the mag article will shed more light on this subject. Although from what people remember about the article even the Nissan engineers were suprised how well the lowering worked with the suspension and seemed to enhance it.
All I can say Ryan, is get ready to have them tear your wallet to shreds. They don't nickel and dime you, they ding you by the hundreds.
Hopefully my car will be fixed soon so we'll be able to see what's wrong with that and whether or not it pertains to your car as well. For under $20 it's hard to go wrong if you were to fill the active system and look for leaks yourself... I'm sure you'd be able to fill it yourself without problems. It's undoubtedly just the flush, etc which is where the larger fees are incurred.
Corey
Hopefully my car will be fixed soon so we'll be able to see what's wrong with that and whether or not it pertains to your car as well. For under $20 it's hard to go wrong if you were to fill the active system and look for leaks yourself... I'm sure you'd be able to fill it yourself without problems. It's undoubtedly just the flush, etc which is where the larger fees are incurred.
Corey