With a 240sx, a basic SR20DET swap without a harness, a maf or ignitor or any of that, can i use a Microtech to run everything? Do they come with their own full harness? I want to run full standalone instead of buying a complete swap with stuff i dont really need anyway.
I want to skip straight to standalone, T3/t04E, bigger injectors, FMIC, and not pay extra for stock parts i dont need.
This 240 is gonna be stripped, non-daily driven, and as awesome as i can get it for like 6 grand.
If the microtech wont work fully standalone, whats your next best recommendation? SDS EFI comes to mind, anything else? Power FC needs the OEM harness to work doesnt it?
Thanks for reading and posting good information in this thread!
Microtech as a full standalone
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compression
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I was in the same boat as you. I wanted to go straight to standalone, piggybacks never really work right, and JWT charges an a$$load and you dont have a lot of flexibility. I picked up a bare engine/trans for under 1,000 and went from there.
Dont forget that you can get a front clip and sell all the parts you dont need, you can make some of your money back that way.You will need some kind of ignitor or an aftermarket ignition system. You can use an ignitor from another car with coil-on-plug, like an NSX for instance, as long as you wire it up right. If you choose aftermarket ignition, 2 systems come to mind: AEM's 4-channel CDI and MSD's DIS-4. What you do is run each of your four coil triggers from the ECU into these units and they output to the coils. You cannot trigger the coils directly with the an ECU or EMS.I chose to run the AEM CDI and have been very happy with it so far. For an EMS I also chose to go with an AEM system, also very very happy with it.
I basically built the engine control harness from scratch to work with the EMS i bought( which was for an EVO 8). I used an AEM 3.5 bar MAP sensor, AEM wideband O2 sensor, and a bunch of other stuff. You will need a harness no matter what you decide to run, OEM or make your own? its your choice.AEM will be coming out with a plug-n-play EMS for the SR and KA motors in the next few months that will plug into the factory harnesses. This will probably be the way to go, I did it the hard way because I did not know they were going to do the nissan stuff, oh well, I learned a lot.Save your money, you get what you pay for when it comes to stndalones, AEM has great tech support, a great warranty program, and the system is bulletproof.Its not cheap to go stand alone, the stuff adds up pretty quick. You WILL NEED a wideband O2 sensor, they are crucial when it comes to standalones.I dont know much about the microtech system, anything like the megasquirt? (man that thing is sketchy... Ever heard the term, "you can do it yourself, or you can do it right"?)
Dont forget that you can get a front clip and sell all the parts you dont need, you can make some of your money back that way.You will need some kind of ignitor or an aftermarket ignition system. You can use an ignitor from another car with coil-on-plug, like an NSX for instance, as long as you wire it up right. If you choose aftermarket ignition, 2 systems come to mind: AEM's 4-channel CDI and MSD's DIS-4. What you do is run each of your four coil triggers from the ECU into these units and they output to the coils. You cannot trigger the coils directly with the an ECU or EMS.I chose to run the AEM CDI and have been very happy with it so far. For an EMS I also chose to go with an AEM system, also very very happy with it.
I basically built the engine control harness from scratch to work with the EMS i bought( which was for an EVO 8). I used an AEM 3.5 bar MAP sensor, AEM wideband O2 sensor, and a bunch of other stuff. You will need a harness no matter what you decide to run, OEM or make your own? its your choice.AEM will be coming out with a plug-n-play EMS for the SR and KA motors in the next few months that will plug into the factory harnesses. This will probably be the way to go, I did it the hard way because I did not know they were going to do the nissan stuff, oh well, I learned a lot.Save your money, you get what you pay for when it comes to stndalones, AEM has great tech support, a great warranty program, and the system is bulletproof.Its not cheap to go stand alone, the stuff adds up pretty quick. You WILL NEED a wideband O2 sensor, they are crucial when it comes to standalones.I dont know much about the microtech system, anything like the megasquirt? (man that thing is sketchy... Ever heard the term, "you can do it yourself, or you can do it right"?)
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msaskin
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The microtech is a bit beyond the megasquirt 
I'm planning on running the LT8s, but I'm still deciding.
compression, can you give me a bit more info about your AEM install? I take it you just took the harness that came with the unit and spliced the harness into the stock injector/sensor/etc. plugs? You happen to have a running base-map or something I can look at? Also, were you able to get the stock CAS working, or did you have to use an optical wheel at the crank or something.
In the past I've had tons of experience tuning the AEM and the Haltech E6k, and figured I may try something new on my SR (microtech LT8s), but if I can hack the AEM into working, i'd go with that, since I really like it
~matt
I'm planning on running the LT8s, but I'm still deciding. compression, can you give me a bit more info about your AEM install? I take it you just took the harness that came with the unit and spliced the harness into the stock injector/sensor/etc. plugs? You happen to have a running base-map or something I can look at? Also, were you able to get the stock CAS working, or did you have to use an optical wheel at the crank or something.
In the past I've had tons of experience tuning the AEM and the Haltech E6k, and figured I may try something new on my SR (microtech LT8s), but if I can hack the AEM into working, i'd go with that, since I really like it
~matt
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Nismo_Freak
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compression
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Like I said earlier, AEM will be releasing a plug and play for the SR that uses the OEM harness. THey are working on the calibration right now.My engine came with a cut harness (cut at firewall) so i has all the plugs that plug into the OEM sensors, and all my aftermarket sensors came with their own plugs. I basically built the wiring harness from the sensors to the EMS. The EMS does not come with any wiring, it was made to plug directly into an EVO 8 factory OEM harness (which is a standard OBD style plug). Since I dont have an EVO 8, I got my hands on some new OBD style plugs and some pins. Basically I just pinned out the harness and installed the pins into the EMS plugs. (Dont try this unless you have the correct crimping tool, otherwise it is a major pain in the arse).
For cam/crank signal, I used the factory S13 cam sensor. At the time AEM did not think that their EMS would work with the 360-window disc (its an optical sensor) that was in the sensor. So I designed a new disc & had it laser cut out of stainless steel. It had 24 outer windows and 1 inner window, the 24 are for the cam, the one is for the crank signal.BUT... AEM has very recently made the stock 360 window disc work with their latest software, so that step is totally unecessary.
I have maps that I use on the car currently, it runs great, nice and rich for now, no stalling, no backfires, perfect idle. It is waiting to go to a professional AEM EMS tuner to finish off the details and really get it dialed exactly how I want it. So I really dont think the maps are worth sharing at this point.The link below goes to a thread that has an ignition map for the SR. About midway down, Enthalpy posts what he is running for timing at 0 manifold pressure, from there you retard timing .75 degrees for every 1 psi of boost.
http://forums.freshalloy.com/u...art=1
I used his instructions and built a timing map almost exactly to what he is running. Needless to say, i am very pleased with it. I am getting no signs of knock, backfire or anything, just breakneck acceleration. I suggest following his lead also, be sure to read the whole post.
Heres a brief rundown of what I am using for sensor/actuators:-stock SR TPS-Stock Cam/Crank sensor with custom disc-3.5 bar AEM MAP sensor-GM intake air temp sensor- Stock SR knock sensor-Stock SR injectors-AEM wideband oxygen sensor-AEM EGT sensor-AEM fuel pressure sensor-GM Cyclone boost control solenoid (controlled by AEM EMS)-stock SR water temp sensor-AEM capacitor discharge ignition, stock SR coils.
and thats it. Not much is required to make an engine run, just he bare essentials.Let me know if you want anything else.
For cam/crank signal, I used the factory S13 cam sensor. At the time AEM did not think that their EMS would work with the 360-window disc (its an optical sensor) that was in the sensor. So I designed a new disc & had it laser cut out of stainless steel. It had 24 outer windows and 1 inner window, the 24 are for the cam, the one is for the crank signal.BUT... AEM has very recently made the stock 360 window disc work with their latest software, so that step is totally unecessary.
I have maps that I use on the car currently, it runs great, nice and rich for now, no stalling, no backfires, perfect idle. It is waiting to go to a professional AEM EMS tuner to finish off the details and really get it dialed exactly how I want it. So I really dont think the maps are worth sharing at this point.The link below goes to a thread that has an ignition map for the SR. About midway down, Enthalpy posts what he is running for timing at 0 manifold pressure, from there you retard timing .75 degrees for every 1 psi of boost.
http://forums.freshalloy.com/u...art=1
I used his instructions and built a timing map almost exactly to what he is running. Needless to say, i am very pleased with it. I am getting no signs of knock, backfire or anything, just breakneck acceleration. I suggest following his lead also, be sure to read the whole post.
Heres a brief rundown of what I am using for sensor/actuators:-stock SR TPS-Stock Cam/Crank sensor with custom disc-3.5 bar AEM MAP sensor-GM intake air temp sensor- Stock SR knock sensor-Stock SR injectors-AEM wideband oxygen sensor-AEM EGT sensor-AEM fuel pressure sensor-GM Cyclone boost control solenoid (controlled by AEM EMS)-stock SR water temp sensor-AEM capacitor discharge ignition, stock SR coils.
and thats it. Not much is required to make an engine run, just he bare essentials.Let me know if you want anything else.
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msaskin
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Compression...you da man!
That's what I had figured you had done (just pinned out the harness by hand) but wanted to check first. I'm all for pioneering things, but seeing that someone else has run the AEM on an SR20 gives me a bit more incentive to do it myself.
Yeah, I know they are working on the plug and play for the KA and SR, but1) I don't really care. I've installed at least 3 or 4 haltechs and had to do the flying lead harness thing, so it's not a problem2) i'd rather pin out my own harness than use plug and play, it's fun3) I don't want to wait that long.
I'm sure i'll be contacting you eventually. Even if you don't think your maps aren't that great, would you mind sending 'em to me anyways so I have something to look at? I promise I won't make fun
~matt
That's what I had figured you had done (just pinned out the harness by hand) but wanted to check first. I'm all for pioneering things, but seeing that someone else has run the AEM on an SR20 gives me a bit more incentive to do it myself.
Yeah, I know they are working on the plug and play for the KA and SR, but1) I don't really care. I've installed at least 3 or 4 haltechs and had to do the flying lead harness thing, so it's not a problem2) i'd rather pin out my own harness than use plug and play, it's fun
3) I don't want to wait that long.I'm sure i'll be contacting you eventually. Even if you don't think your maps aren't that great, would you mind sending 'em to me anyways so I have something to look at? I promise I won't make fun
~matt
Thanks for the good info guys! It should be very possible and not too much more of a wiring headache than splicing two 15 year old harnesses. I'd much rather just put in one brand new labled harness from Microtech or whoever. and screw the MAF sensor, give me a MAP sensor and an easier intake setup k thx.
The only thing im worried about is what am i going to do with 350hp in a 2500 pound car? muahaha go race my friend's Skyline thats what
The only thing im worried about is what am i going to do with 350hp in a 2500 pound car? muahaha go race my friend's Skyline thats what
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180crafter
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dareo
Hey man. They shop where I took my car is very backed up. They want to take everything out and get back to Zero. One of the cars sitting in the back is an s13 with a blacktop, 6 speed, and a Microtech. I went over there today, and he wants me to get rid of that stuff for him. So if you want, email me. thnks
Nismo_Freak
Do you have direct experience with this?? I just ordered mine, and have only heard from aussie guys.
Hey man. They shop where I took my car is very backed up. They want to take everything out and get back to Zero. One of the cars sitting in the back is an s13 with a blacktop, 6 speed, and a Microtech. I went over there today, and he wants me to get rid of that stuff for him. So if you want, email me. thnks
Nismo_Freak
Do you have direct experience with this?? I just ordered mine, and have only heard from aussie guys.
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Nismo_Freak
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Not really, however from what I hear it's fairly easy to work with.180crafter wrote:dareo
Hey man. They shop where I took my car is very backed up. They want to take everything out and get back to Zero. One of the cars sitting in the back is an s13 with a blacktop, 6 speed, and a Microtech. I went over there today, and he wants me to get rid of that stuff for him. So if you want, call me:(786)262-4476 thnks
Nismo_Freak
Do you have direct experience with this?? I just ordered mine, and have only heard from aussie guys.
I am currently installing a microtech LT-8. It comes complete with Wire harness and ecu. And it's very easy to install. You will need the ingniter, but don't need the MAF, cause it comes with a MAP sensor. So it's out with the old ecu and Harness and in with the stand alone. I have a friend running a CA18DET with microtech and T3/T04. 1/4 miles are 12's on low boost. installing the microtech should start the engine right up, afterwards it's up to you to fine tune. Cheaper and works just as well as others.laters
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180crafter
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Yeah, the Power FC comes with english instruction, but without the Datalogic, its alittle behind most stand alones. In my opinion, with the DATALOGIC, it is better than all of the other ones. Stock wiring, the ease of installation and all of the functionality of the stock computer (air-conditioning/cruise control/cold idle control) make it sound better on paper than all of the others.
i have used the Power FC by itself, and its OK. Kinda cumbersome, but works. Eager to get my Datalogic though....
http://www.fc-datalogit.co.nz/fc-datalogit.html
i have used the Power FC by itself, and its OK. Kinda cumbersome, but works. Eager to get my Datalogic though....
http://www.fc-datalogit.co.nz/fc-datalogit.html