Meet "Bella" - The NICOclub RB25-powered 240Z Project

[AZhitman]

Minor updates, since I'm kinda worn out (and waiting for parts to arrive, and maintaining the rest of the fleet, and melting in our 115* days...)

Got the rear subframe and suspension married to the shell today. Thankful for this motorcycle jack (perfect for the task)!

I've gotta do some research on a rear brake setup. The 370Z hubs and axles allow for 370Z brakes up front, but I don't have brackets for the rear (yet). Even once I figure that out, I've gotta figure out a rear E-brake setup. There's provisions for a dual rear caliper (with a hydraulic E-brake), but that seems overkill. The other option is a cable-operated drum setup inside the rotor (like a stock 370Z), but that's a lot of complexity as well. Might make a run to Pick & Pull and inspect a 370Z rear end before I decide... Anyone parting out a 370Z?

Now's as good a time as any to point out one of the coolest features of this build. As you know, we're using the Subtle Z rear fenders from Ztrix. With those, the rear is wider, which means my early bumpers won't fit properly. I could widen the bumper with a little cut & weld action, but then we're rechroming a bumper (which isn't easy in the US - most rechroming gets shipped to Mexico).

If you know Z cars, you know that the later Zs had an indentation in the rear quarters for the bumpers. I decided to play off that and create a "pocket" to allow the 240Z rear bumper to fit tightly against the rear roll pan and still wrap around the sides of the car without modifications.

If you look at the pre-paint pics, we roughed in the pockets with fiberglass and structural foam, and our paint/body guy did a great job of making them look almost original. I don't want to get ahead of myself, but I may offer up the bumper *just* to see how it looks - I'm excited (and nervous) to see how it looks!

More to come, thanks for staying tuned!

[AZhitman]

Had an appointment cancel today, so that means more free shop time! Got a couple small tasks accomplished in between household chores.

First, before the head goes to the machine shop, I wanted to prep the head for a supplemental oil drain.

This drain kit (by Franklin Performance) is a pretty easy install. Remove the welch plug at the back of the head, clean it, mark and drill two holes, tap to M6 x 1.0, attach the drain and hose fitting, route to the pan, and you're done. Since the head will be getting tanked, I wasn't too worried about chips and cleanliness, but you'd obviously want to take more precautions doing this on an assembled, functioning engine.

After that, I decided to install the refurbished pedal box - I've got a pair of extra pedals that I may decide to modify, but that remains to be seen. In most of our Datsuns, I've modified the pedals to give a little more space for my big American size 12.5 feet.

I had just enough time before Bex got home to install the front coilovers. Nothing too difficult here, since I had already mocked everything up before paint... and again, super-stoked that I labeled, bagged and sorted all the bits upon disassembly!

I'll be taking care of a multitude of other projects for the next several days, but there's much more to come!

Stay tuned, share with your friends, and post up if you have any questions, comments, criticisms or suggestions!

[float_6969]

That's a beefy rear end...

[AZhitman]

So, my JetHot order and my huge plating order have both been delayed, which means an extra couple days to keep rolling on assembly.

Did some finish work on the flanged fuel filler I built, and installation was smooth and easy.

Since I can't put the weight of the car on the suspension without the coilovers installed, I tackled the rear pushrod and coilover assembly. Again, so nice to have each fastener and component labeled from the test-assembly before paint!

Suspension is installed, all fasteners are snug but not torqued. That'll be the LAST thing I deal with.

I'm finding I should have researched brake caliper options before assembly. My original intention was to use Z32 calipers F & R, but considering this setup uses Z33 hubs, the front and rear brake brackets have Z33 spacing.

Z33 Akebono brakes aren't going to fit under 17" wheels, so I've got some homework to do... There's a possibility I can use 350mm Evo X rotors to save space, but I need to get some mockup bits. Additionally, the need for an e-brake completely skipped my mind. Two options: A hydraulically-actuated second caliper on each rear rotor, OR replicate the Z33 mechanical drum ebrake setup. Both are a PITA, so I really need to find a wrecked Z33 and pull the entire rear brake assembly for testing.

Next, I'll get the crappy rollers aired up and attached so that she can sit on the ground.

One step forward, one step back. Glad it's not two.

[PapaSmurf2k3]

Looking good. I'm curious to see how those bumpers fit as well.
That oil drain path you put in the head is effin HUGE. I can't imagine having oil pooling problems after that shotgun approach. Holy moly.

[AZhitman]

Oil don't need to stay in the head!

RB have an issue with oil pooling around the back half of the head. Rather have it in the sump.

[float_6969]

Looks so good! I could sit and stare at the in-board rear coilovers all day.

I vote cable for the park brake. I had a friend try to use a hydro park brake and getting the caliper, master, and park brake arm distance all balanced so that it would actually hold and not be super hard to pull up was difficult.

The nice thing about a drum brake is that once it grabs, they tighten themselves. They're also s*** to modulate, but you don't really need modulation on a parking brake.

I'm not sure if it fits in with your build plans, but have you looked into calipers that have a built-in electronic park brake? My Ford e-Transit uses them and IIRC, it's just a 2 wire plug. I'm guessing the motor is just reversible. Might simplify things and would look clean.

[AZhitman]

I pondered the parking brake options for a LONG time. I've decided I'm not interested in the dual caliper setup (although the electronic brake interests me).

SO, yesterday I bought the entire brake system out of a lightly wrecked NISMO 370Z. Now I have the backing plates, shoes, rotors, springs, adjusters, hardware, and some MASSIVE front and rear calipers.

I'll dig in on this over the next couple weeks and try to marry the 240Z e-brake handle / cable to the 370Z brake assembly.

[float_6969]

Not that my opinion matters, but I think that's the best route.

I'm running Project Mu pads on the shoes of my Z32 conversion. I'm pretty happy with them. They have more bite than standard shoes. I'm pretty sure they made shoes for the Z34 as well.

[AZhitman]

So, we're waiting for the machine shop to wrap up the head work for the RB25 (shout out to Todd at S & S Machine Shop).

In the meantime, I disassembled the GT3076R and sent the halves off for JetHot coating (hot side) and Cerakote heat dissipating coating for the cold side.

Turnaround time was pretty quick, and it looks fantastic!

The next day, S&S called to tell me the head was done - Typical flawless work from a great crew!

On my way back from the machine shop, I stopped off at Jordan Auto Salvage. They had TWO NISMO 370Zs in stock, and both cars had their full brake systems! So, I grabbed the rear uprights, all the e-brake goodies, and the front and rear calipers. I'd call this a score, and definitely overkill for a 2500-lb car!

And a quick mockup of the fronts, just for measurement sake:

Since I'm waiting on the Tomei head gasket to assemble the head to the block, I decided to disassemble the pedal box (again) and modify the pedals for a little more room for my size 12 feet.

With a few hours left before time to do household chores, I decided to knock out a few more little tasks (really, I just wanted to get some stuff off my workbench)!

Sound deadening material in the doors and rear hatch:

...and installed the fresh new shiny C-pillar badges!

More updates to come. We're scrambling to get ready for this year's Route 66 JDM Classic (route66jdm.com), so there'll be a brief break in the action, but it'll be engine assembly time soon!

[PapaSmurf2k3]

Can't wait to check this thing out in person

[gmac708]

Looking good Greg.

[VStar650CL]

On my way back from the machine shop, I stopped off at Jordan Auto Salvage. They had TWO NISMO 370Zs in stock, and both cars had their full brake systems! So, I grabbed the rear uprights, all the e-brake goodies, and the front and rear calipers. I'd call this a score, and definitely overkill for a 2500-lb car!

I'd put an adjustable proportioning valve on your git list, Greg. Unless I miss my guess, you're gonna have issues with those locking up way before the fronts.

[float_6969]

I thought the braking system was all from a stock Z34? Why wouldn't it be balanced? Unless he's running something strange with the MC and I missed it?

[VStar650CL]

Maybe I missed something, but the Z34's are all ABS/VDC. That includes smartwork for the rears. Without that, I suspect those badazz rears will be a bit much in a ride that's bound to be front-heavy.

[float_6969]

Ahh, I didn't consider that! It's definitely not hard to add and doesn't take up much space.

[AZhitman]

I'd put an adjustable proportioning valve on your git list, Greg. Unless I miss my guess, you're gonna have issues with those locking up way before the fronts.

Good call - It's integrated into the MC (not sure if you can see the knob there).

[VStar650CL]

[AZhitman]

Updates have been slow of late... I've dropped off a bunch of miscellaneous bits and parts for powder coating...

...and in the meantime, I've installed the Platinum Racing Products Race Series Ignition Timing Kit.

As soon as more stuff comes back from the powdercoater, I'll post some more updates. For now, I'm back to work on the other Datsuns!

[AZhitman]

As much as I'd love to run the massive Akebono NISMO 370Z brakes on this build, there's always an issue... and this one's not easily remedied.

The Akebono front calipers are VERY wide, so much so that the overhang is over an inch outboard of the rotor hub. This means a high-pad wheel design (and more positive offset than I want).

If you'll remember from earlier posts, the rear wheelwells are spacious (due to no suspension intrusion and about 3.5" of additional fender width). SO, I'd have very negative offset in the rear, but a FWD-looking offset in the front. Not acceptable.

I'll keep pondering a potential solution, but I suspect I may have to defer to a more practical caliper setup in order to maintain the wheel offsets that were originally intended.

[float_6969]

That's a bummer on the brakes. I didn't notice how shallow those hats are on the brake disc until now. A smaller 2 piston caliper (Think Z32) may help? But you may be stuck with a floating caliper.

[float_6969]

That's a bummer on the brakes. I didn't notice how shallow those hats are on the brake disc until now. A smaller 2 piston caliper (Think Z32) may help? But you may be stuck with a floating caliper.

[AZhitman]

Z32 has a different bolt spacing. Considered that (with an adapter bracket) but I'm thinking even the base Z33 brakes are plenty for the weight of this car.

[float_6969]

I'm sure they will be. Between how light the car is, that it's the rear brakes, and that you probably won't be doing track days in this car, I doubt those rears are going to need a lot of pad area and heat dissipation.

[AZhitman]

Rears aren't the issue. Fronts will likely be floating Z34 calipers.

[float_6969]

Rears aren't the issue. Fronts will likely be floating Z34 calipers.

I thought I was looking at the back of the car. It makes way more sense now.

[AZhitman]

HAHAHAHAHA... dammit Ryan.

[float_6969]

Look. Everyone says I'm pretty. They don't say I'm smart. There's a reason for that...