McKinney motor mount ?'s

[xjon]

I'm going to use MAck's mounts so I have a few ?'s regarding the installation. (rb25det into 93 240)

Looking at the instructions, the picture shows the intake mannifold and starter removed. It only specifies that the ignitor and coil pack to be removed so it doesn't get damaged. The ? is, should I remove the peripherals (intake/ exhaust mannifolds, starter, alternator, complete wiring, etc.) during the install and attach them once the engine and transmission is in place?

It specifies to "remove the trans to engine support brackets so that you do not damage the power steering line on the back of the rack". Is that only during the installation or are you suppose to never use them? I would rather opt to go without power steering and use the support brackets if I can only have one or the other.

I know that I can contact Mack on this personally but I would rather have more opinions from people who had experienced this install using mounting kits (Macks or others).

One more thing, since I wil be using the KA cross member, will it be easier to leave the x-member in the car and remove the engine and transmission through the engine bay? Or just remove the KA and transmission with the cross member under the car and install the x-member after the RB25 is in place?

thanks

[Toad[^_^]]

Did you also get their custom driveshaft?

[NISMO_RB25]

once the motor and transmission are in you can put all the support brackets back on. Take the downpipe off. I left everything else on and got it in just fine.

Pull the KA and transmission through the top. that will be the way you drop the RB25 in as well.

why not leave the powersteering? the lines bolt straight on to the RB pump.

if you aren't keeping the AC, remove the compresser, belt and tensioner. it is just easier to do it when the motor is out.

you will need to have the radiator out of the car, and the belt driven fan will not fit.

don't forget to dent the fire wall as the instructions show.

disconnecting your steering shaft will also make it a little easier to put in.

good luck, and don't worry as soon as you start doing it, you will figure it all out.

replace your clutch while you have the motor out of the car

[Toad[^_^]]

don't forget to dent the fire wall as the instructions show.

Whaaaaaa?!

[NISMO_RB25]

you have to make a small dent in the firewall where the bulg is on the transmission from the starter. it is no big deal and you the firewall dent's as if it was supposed to dent. I would take that over cutting my hood bracing any day.

[Toad[^_^]]

you have to make a small dent in the firewall where the bulg is on the transmission from the starter. it is no big deal and you the firewall dent's as if it was supposed to dent. I would take that over cutting my hood bracing any day.

Good point. I guess I should invest in a mallet then. Any other suprises before I begin installing?

[NISMO_RB25]

I used a small sledge hammer, only took a few hits. I had to find a radiator hose to fit the lower connector on the RB motor, I posted the part numbers I found off of it in another post somewhere. I put the motor in one day, so it is actually pretty easy. The hardest thing to deal with was mounting the sidemount intercooler and cutting the wholes for the piping. (I broke 3 bits on my dremmel)other than that it is easy, change the clutch before you put the motor in. My only other issue is that my down pipe hangs down a little low, and is pushing back on the exhaust (I had the stock exhaust, now an N1 Dual). It still fits fine, but I am going to have it shortend about an inch, so I don't hit it on any speed bumps.

Anything you might want to replace, hoses, belts, plugs, etc. is easiest to do with the motor out of the car, so think about making some reliability investments now. since you are pulling the factory radiator out anyway, you might as well upgrade.

remove the wiring harness before putting the motor in as well, since you will either need to have someone rewire it or do it yourself.

if your using the KA gauge cluster, your speedo and tach will both be wrong. mckinney sells modulators to fix it, or you can buy a apexi rev/speed meter. (make sure you get one that reads in MPH, cause mine doesn't)

[xjon]

Yes I did get the drive shaft.

Nismo- the down pipe you're talking about, is that the real down pipe or the o2 sensor housing that is bolted right after the turbo?

I already have the exhaust mannifold off because I needed to replace a bolt/stud. I just don't want to place it back on the engine if I will have to take it off due to clearance issues later and waste a gasket.

Meanwhile I already have the AC compressor, power steering off the engine and I don't think I will put it back on. I wil however keep the extra KA components such as the condenser, ps lines on the car for awhile just in case I change my mind. In case anybody wondering, the PS and AC with mounts, and fan = 31 lbs.

The engine fan is off already. I only have 1 main belt on the engine right now. Radiator and steering shaft will only be a couple of bolts.

The clutch I will be ordering in a few weeks. The flywheel is already resurfaced.

Thanks Nismo.

Oh yeah, did you just leave the x-member in place while removing the KA and intaling the RB?

[xjon]

Nismo, I got those part numbers you posted for the autozone lower radiator hose. What did you do for the upper hose? Is it the same as the KA or did you get a universal hose?

Where did you get the down pipe from? I already have the dual N1. Is it just too low and/or too long? I was planning to get nights down pipe along with his intercooler and piping.

[FAST-DATSUN]

Looks like everyone has answer your questions, if not call me 909-304-9300 or 304-1045. Mack

[NISMO_RB25]

Nismo, I got those part numbers you posted for the autozone lower radiator hose. What did you do for the upper hose? Is it the same as the KA or did you get a universal hose?

Where did you get the down pipe from? I already have the dual N1. Is it just too low and/or too long? I was planning to get nights down pipe along with his intercooler and piping.

I just cut the KA upper hose for the top and it fits fine. it actually screwed up cutting the first time, and had to get a second one. glad they are cheap

I am still using the downpipe from the RB. it is about an inch too low. cutting an inch off the section that connects to the pipe coming from the turbo, would raise it up and pull it forward making it perfect. (it still bolted up to the N1 exhaust the way it is now). I haven't had it done yet, so I am just carefull when I drive over bumps. the only reason I didn't get nights down pipe is because it is designed for use with the RB crossmember, so I don't think it will solve the issue. Just take your stock pipe to a welder and have it cut. Let me know how the intercooler setup works out for you. I want a FMIC Mckinney also had the piping and FM at one point, so you might check with them also. That is probably where I will get mine, since I had a good experience with there service. you will notice the post above if you have questions, you can give them a call.

[NISMO_RB25]

Yes I did get the drive shaft.

Nismo- the down pipe you're talking about, is that the real down pipe or the o2 sensor housing that is bolted right after the turbo?

I already have the exhaust mannifold off because I needed to replace a bolt/stud. I just don't want to place it back on the engine if I will have to take it off due to clearance issues later and waste a gasket.

Meanwhile I already have the AC compressor, power steering off the engine and I don't think I will put it back on. I wil however keep the extra KA components such as the condenser, ps lines on the car for awhile just in case I change my mind. In case anybody wondering, the PS and AC with mounts, and fan = 31 lbs.

The engine fan is off already. I only have 1 main belt on the engine right now. Radiator and steering shaft will only be a couple of bolts.

The clutch I will be ordering in a few weeks. The flywheel is already resurfaced.

Thanks Nismo.

Oh yeah, did you just leave the x-member in place while removing the KA and intaling the RB?

i didn't see this one. yes I left the 240xmemeber in during the swap. I did loosen the front swaybar just for more clearance, so I didn't dent the oil pan putting it in. the down pipe I am talking about is not the part with the o2 housing. I am not sure if it should really be called a downpipe, since it doesn't connect to the turbo directly. The pipe coming off the turbo should fit without problems.

[xjon]

I actually went to Mack's shop and talked to them for the first time and they were really helpfull. So yes I will be doing more business with them. Just depends on when I get funds and if they will have the parts available. Currently they are out of the downpipe as of last week.

Also I didn't get the stock downpipe from the RB since I didn't get the clip. So I need to go downpipe hunting sooner or later. Good point regarding nights dp with macks mounts.

[Tosh]

xjon

where did you get your motor from and how much did it cost you?

[xjon]

Risingsunengines.com $2k engine, man transmission, ecu, maf, AC, PS, wiring harness. I say buy a clip. I think the engine is better protected than on a crate.

[NISMO_RB25]

not having a down pipe, you ought to just go ahead and have a complete custome 3 inch made or you could order one from Night (or whomever) and then have it cut and rewelded.