my master cylinder went bad in march 2011 . i went to napa auto parts and paid $220 for a re-manufactured unit [ lost receipt cant get a replacement ].
last friday 8/05/11 , the master cylinder went bad again. this time i ordered a new one from rockauto .com for $100.
this time its a beck/arney model. this one did not come with the bleeder attachments and hoses i needed to bleed the master cylinder. the brakes feel better than when the cylinder was broken but i still feel that i have air in my lines. do i have to go to each bleeder screw to bleed the system or is there an easy way to do it?
also .... what can cause the master cylinder to go bad so quickly ???
where can i get a rebuild kit for a tokico master cylinder ?
master cylinder
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towncarblue
- Posts: 152
- Joined: Fri Mar 16, 2007 2:36 pm
- Car: 2002 Nissan Pathfinder
Re: master cylinder
Master cylinder, the reservoir at the firewall with a vacuum booster and the brake pedal assembly attached that you push with your foot to engage the hydraulic brakes, yes.
If this is what your discussing, when you did put another in place did you attach and level and place all bolts loosely and check plunger piston operation and vacuum operation before trying to drive.
The M/C is hydraulic in nature and must be balanced mechanically and hydraulically so the piston operation is smooth and level. Otherwise excess pressure is applied to the container which is just a tank and has no pressure or can it take pressure.
When it comes to draining and replacing brake fluid there is no fast and simple easy method. If the vehicle has 4 wheel hydraulic brakes, ABS, a master cylinder, an e brake, then each wheel, ABS and M/C must be approached on time in correct order, usually from farthest from the M/C to closest. The M/C should be flushed by vacuum before pumping fluid, and topped.
The brake draining is done at each wheel whether drum or disk, the relief valve drain point must be clean. Tighten each as you come to it and then try to open. If you open first it may be rusted and break.
A coke bottle, a 1/4" tube and tight fitting is essential. 2 people is nice to do the job, or even an automatic bleeder, but not essential. You must know the difference between clean and dirty brake fluid and know the dangers of the wrong fluid and the mixing of paint and brake fluid.
Many people create more problems than they resolve do a brake job and fluid change because of inexperience, cleanliness or lack thereof and being in a rush. If 2 of you are doing the job COMMUNICATIONS are vital, the person pushing the pedal and releasing it needs to take orders from the guy collecting the fluid so he can be certain the valve is closed at the right time.
Also the pusher of the pedal needs a stop, a 2x4 to restrict piston operation. Too much of any movement is a no no. That is when air can get into the lines and you want to remove air and never let it enter by not doing extreme pumps, orifice on off and being spaced out.
It will take time, be comfortable and don't get angry.
If this is what your discussing, when you did put another in place did you attach and level and place all bolts loosely and check plunger piston operation and vacuum operation before trying to drive.
The M/C is hydraulic in nature and must be balanced mechanically and hydraulically so the piston operation is smooth and level. Otherwise excess pressure is applied to the container which is just a tank and has no pressure or can it take pressure.
When it comes to draining and replacing brake fluid there is no fast and simple easy method. If the vehicle has 4 wheel hydraulic brakes, ABS, a master cylinder, an e brake, then each wheel, ABS and M/C must be approached on time in correct order, usually from farthest from the M/C to closest. The M/C should be flushed by vacuum before pumping fluid, and topped.
The brake draining is done at each wheel whether drum or disk, the relief valve drain point must be clean. Tighten each as you come to it and then try to open. If you open first it may be rusted and break.
A coke bottle, a 1/4" tube and tight fitting is essential. 2 people is nice to do the job, or even an automatic bleeder, but not essential. You must know the difference between clean and dirty brake fluid and know the dangers of the wrong fluid and the mixing of paint and brake fluid.
Many people create more problems than they resolve do a brake job and fluid change because of inexperience, cleanliness or lack thereof and being in a rush. If 2 of you are doing the job COMMUNICATIONS are vital, the person pushing the pedal and releasing it needs to take orders from the guy collecting the fluid so he can be certain the valve is closed at the right time.
Also the pusher of the pedal needs a stop, a 2x4 to restrict piston operation. Too much of any movement is a no no. That is when air can get into the lines and you want to remove air and never let it enter by not doing extreme pumps, orifice on off and being spaced out.
It will take time, be comfortable and don't get angry.
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towncarblue
- Posts: 152
- Joined: Fri Mar 16, 2007 2:36 pm
- Car: 2002 Nissan Pathfinder
Re: master cylinder
when i checked the old master cylinder the piston appeared to be pushed in all the way, i quickly loosened it with a toothbrush handle.
the first master cylinder i replaced i needed to apply pressure while trying to place the two bolts that connect to the vacuum booster[Power Brake Booster]. this time i was able to install it without any pressure.
i went and used a vacuum pump to flush out and bleed the rear and front brakes. when i press the brake pedal it sinks a bit too much and then feels firm when i pump the brakes again really fast. i need to press the brake pedal with a quick double-tap in order for the pedal not to sink most of the way down. the brake pads for the front are halfway done
i think i need to adjust the vacuum plunger[Power Brake Booster ] but i dont know how ? how can i tell if i need to replace the piston plunger
the first master cylinder i replaced i needed to apply pressure while trying to place the two bolts that connect to the vacuum booster[Power Brake Booster]. this time i was able to install it without any pressure.
i went and used a vacuum pump to flush out and bleed the rear and front brakes. when i press the brake pedal it sinks a bit too much and then feels firm when i pump the brakes again really fast. i need to press the brake pedal with a quick double-tap in order for the pedal not to sink most of the way down. the brake pads for the front are halfway done
i think i need to adjust the vacuum plunger[Power Brake Booster ] but i dont know how ? how can i tell if i need to replace the piston plunger