1/ Where is it in the car?

2/ Roughly how much is one?

3/ How easy/hard is it to change?

4/ Do I HAVE TO bleed afterwards?

Thanks.

Look who it is!

1. In the engine bay. Battery is located on the right side under the cover, the brake cylinder is located on the left side under the cover.

2. About $300 if you buy the OEM assembly new. 46010-AC725, but it includes more than just the metal cylinder body.
$100-$200 if you buy a new one from an auto parts store
Probably even cheaper used (probably not the best choice)

3. Not too difficult. Any tutorial you find online will guide you very effectively to do it on the M

4. Yes. You will have to empty the reservoir to replace it. (Careful of the spills. Brake fluid will eat clear coat).

5. Call a Nissan dealership or an indy and get a quote for the work.

EdBwoy,
upon removal of the master cylinder, their is a rod that connects the cylinder to the booster.
Do you know if this rod is adjustable? That is, can the rod be lengthened or shortened to adjust brake pedal throw to specifications?

TDOT
I have not done a master cylinder on an Infiniti/Nissan, but others I have bled the master cylinder "on the bench" for the first bleed procedure (before installing on car).
They have kits similar to attached, some come with a new master cylinder.
This procedure is applicable to conventional Master Cylinders in general; check instructions with the new MC to be sure it applies to your car!
I am sure this procedure is on you tube.

Below is a link to a MC bleeder kit.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/rnb- ... ent=Dorman

I do final bleeding last.

EdBwoy wrote: ↑

Mon Oct 22, 2018 11:10 am

Look who it is!

Yes, I've risen.

Thanks for the info to both. A little scared, but I'll go ahead and try in a couple weeks. One more question before I start down this path. Besides brake bleeding, is there any other thing that will fix mushy, soft brakes, or a test that will specifically point to the master cylinder?

TDot, have you seen this thread? https://forums.nicoclub.com/2010-m35x-b ... 15231.html
You could try to compare your symptoms to those listed in there... Or list them here. Given the right descriptions, sometimes someone can immediately point out a root cause without having to turn the whole house upside down.

Steve, the rod looks to be adjustable right at the pedal

Thanks EdBwoy!

That's exactly the info I am looking for!
Till this day I have not solved the mystery of why my ABS/VDC/Slip lights come on when brakes are depressed to to max...booster rod adjustment check is on my mind!

I did see that post, but all anyone keeps talking about is bleeding the brakes, and I know that isn't the issue. I did see someone mention testing the brake booster, but my brakes are rock solid when pumped up with the engine off, so I know that's not the issue. There was no mention on how to test the master cylinder but I found some YouTube vids that I think should help myself and anyone else who has this issue...in another post.

TDot wrote: ↑

Sat Oct 27, 2018 10:28 am

I did see that post, but all anyone keeps talking about is bleeding the brakes, and I know that isn't the issue. I did see someone mention testing the brake booster, but my brakes are rock solid when pumped up with the engine off, so I know that's not the issue. There was no mention on how to test the master cylinder but I found some YouTube vids that I think should help myself and anyone else who has this issue...in another post.

When was the last time you replaced your brake fluid? It gains water over time and becomes less effective and "smushy". Minimum you should replace the fluid every 3 years, recommended every 2 years.
Also if your master cylinder was bad, I would expect the brakes would not get rock solid after pumping the pedal when the engine is off. Even if you have some air in the lines the pedal will not get rock solid despite the brake booster and cylinder being good.

TDot wrote: ↑

Sat Oct 27, 2018 10:28 am

... but my brakes are rock solid when pumped up with the engine off, so I know that's not the issue. There was no mention on how to test the master cylinder ...

TDot, you never quite told us what the issue was.
Has it been solved and was it related to this other thread? https://forums.nicoclub.com/after-brake ... 22685.html