March of the Spring codes

[paranoidjack]

The car has been running pretty rough for the last 6 months. I haven't had the money to take care of her, and at 180k she needs love. Today I pulled my codes, and as follows:

p0325 Knock Sensor. WHAT. Those of you that know my name know that should not be the case, will have to inspect.
p0120 TPS. Choose to spend time diagnosing according to FSM but seems like a bit of work, for $134 I'm inclined to replace it with new unit from Joe.
p1400 EGRC Solenoid Valve. Not too happy about this one, FSM is again complex and I am having trouble finding it on www.everythinginfiniti.com
p1705 TPS echo code
p1447 EVAP control system Purge Flow (FSM cites possibly TPS, which is a Tier 1 code anyway). Tier 3 code should disappear after TPS replacement/repair.
p0158 O2 Sensor 2 Bank 2. Need to replace all 4, found OEM snap in Bosch (inventor of o2 sensor) or from Joe $420 vs $550.

Just did a water pump on the Durango today, caliper tomorrow. Took 40 quarts to flush whole system to clean water at 130k!!! Ball joints for 2nd time and much more, that car falls apart like no other but is great when running, just beastly.

Alot of work this summer I'm afraid, however I'm getting a nice big check soon and plan to do all above, as well as rehab suspension for the 2nd time (as I posted on NICO the first time with pics).

I plan on documenting with photos, we'll see how well it goes. As the FGY33's get older we'll need more walkthroughs for those who refuse/cannot look at black and white in FSM. They always help me to read one from a regular guy, with pertinent tips etc...

Stay tuned, anyone with any personal experience with above codes feel free to post away before I order parts etc.

[Q45tech]

20 YEARS OF OWNERSHIP HAS PROVEN TO BE A CONSTANT BATTLE IN REPLACING WORN OUT PARTS.
What amazes me is that a few things are built [over built] so well, but most have a tough time lasting 10 years.

I am reviewing all those things replaced in 1997-2002 as I know they are just waiting to fail or I'm missing [less sensitive] as I get older. Just that after 2006 I've driven the Q a lot less. First 10 was 200k in 10 years, next was 125k in 10 years.

Some things are very expensive like rear subframe, driveshaft, differential, and transmission...........

[paranoidjack]

The overengineering of some parts is impressive. I have the opportunity for a sharp contrast with my durango - the ball joints on my Q at 180k are pristine, whereas in the Durango I've replaced the ball joints twice already at 115k.

However, Infiniti could take a lesson or two from Dodge - the interior panels of the Q are SO scratch prone and delicate. I understand it's a luxury barge, but my 90lb dog can be in my truck for an hour running around with no noticeable damage. She's not allowed in my Q but I imagine it would last all of 3 seconds before something was destroyed. This includes the leather in both (never was a huge fan of hard shiny Infiniti leather, I hear the G50's were better though).

The Infiniti's are built for serviceability - my favorite part. Lines for deep repairs run AROUND bolts, hose clamps are accessible without removing brackets and unnecessary components....the dodge seems to have built with one thing in mind - getting it built. Small services like spark plugs require removing fuel rails. Seriously, Dodge?

Tech - while you've stopped in - do you see the TPS's on these cars fail? At 180k I can't complain.

[paranoidjack]

20 YEARS OF OWNERSHIP HAS PROVEN TO BE A CONSTANT BATTLE IN REPLACING WORN OUT PARTS.
What amazes me is that a few things are built [over built] so well, but most have a tough time lasting 10 years.

I am reviewing all those things replaced in 1997-2002 as I know they are just waiting to fail or I'm missing [less sensitive] as I get older. Just that after 2006 I've driven the Q a lot less. First 10 was 200k in 10 years, next was 125k in 10 years.

Some things are very expensive like rear subframe, driveshaft, differential, and transmission...........

The WORST part of all, is that components generally don't last nearly as long the second time around, because their dependent components are most likely not being replaced simultaneously. All rubber wears as a function of tire/shock/spring wear for instance - replacing rubber on the car won't give it it's full life if you have old tires, shocks, etc. Replacing the belts won't last as long since the Alt, PS, AC, Idler, and Tensioner pulleys aren't BRAND SPANKING NEW. One bad pulley will wear all the others tenfold. This is why everyone says the dealer is "expensive." Generally the dealer with perhaps higher labor rates (but faster working and more experienced personnel) will replace all components to get the operation of the failed component to as near to 100% as possible, as opposed to applying belt dressing and WD40 to a squeaking belt/pulley.

THAT is where it seems you have to draw the line re:replacing the car versus fixing whatever parts you can - realizing what parts you CAN'T afford to replace, and how that will bear on any future investment in the car. I have a nice check for about 6k coming - I was going to spend roughly 3-4 of it on the car, new exhaust system, the list above, and more. Why? Because I know this car +4k of love will have enough components replaced that it will work without major issue (except diff/transmission) for 5 years. Otherwise, my car is worth 1.5k. 1.5k plus my $4k is only $5.5k. That gives me approximately 20 months of new(ish) car payment with guaranteed no maintenance, or something else's headache purchased outright for $5.5k.

The best deal, barring gasoline, is the Q! Just have to get dirty.

[elwesso]

with the EGRC solenoid, you can see if it works by holding it and gently applying the gas.. You can feel it click.

[paranoidjack]

Thanks Wes. Any insight on TPS? Never had to address it before, probably doing this stuff next Wed/Thursday.

[elwesso]

TPS failures are kind of rare at least on the old Q, not sure if they changed the design much.

Normally I say if the transmission is shifting normally, IE its not shifting abnormally hard or at weird RPMs then its fine.. Have you ever taken out the ECU or messed with any of the connectors? When I had TPS issues it turned out to be a loose connection at the ECU.

[paranoidjack]

Yeah, it's not shifting well. It's stuttering and clearly having issues (that don't exist from a cold start, non mechanical issue).

Plus, with the KS codes, nothing is operating quite the way it should.

EDIT: Wow Wes, just noticed you have over 30k posts. My goodness.

[elwesso]

Best way you can tell if the TPS itself is operating normal is to hook a VOM up to it and measure the resistance as you slowly apply the gas (engine off, harness disconnected obviously). For this, I like to bust out my $3 analog meter because you can watch the needle go up and make sure it goes smoothly with no jumps.

when I had TPS issues the car mainly wanted to hold shifts longer than it should..

[Infinitiguy19]

Best way you can tell if the TPS itself is operating normal is to hook a VOM up to it and measure the resistance as you slowly apply the gas (engine off, harness disconnected obviously). For this, I like to bust out my $3 analog meter because you can watch the needle go up and make sure it goes smoothly with no jumps.

when I had TPS issues the car mainly wanted to hold shifts longer than it should..

Unless a FGY33 (1997-2001 Q45) Throttle Position Sensor is different than a G50 (1990-1996 Q45) I would measure the voltage.
post1036369.html?hilit=idle%20duty%20cycle#p1036369

[paranoidjack]

Best way you can tell if the TPS itself is operating normal is to hook a VOM up to it and measure the resistance as you slowly apply the gas (engine off, harness disconnected obviously). For this, I like to bust out my $3 analog meter because you can watch the needle go up and make sure it goes smoothly with no jumps.

when I had TPS issues the car mainly wanted to hold shifts longer than it should..

Great insight, appreciate it much. Analog is a good idea. I'll buy the meter because I should have it anyway (only have digital), but I still think I'm going to just replace the TPS. I get a sick pleasure out of replacing parts, even if I can't feel a difference.

[paranoidjack]

I bought a new TPS. I was amazed to see (ordered from Autozone, painful to not buy from Joe but cash is tight), that it WAS indeed an OEM Nissan TPS! It was clearly brand new and a direct exact replacement for mine. Weird that they had that (without specifying it on the website that it was OEM), and it was LESS expensive than their other brands!

Anyway, the car is exhibiting the same issues. Acceleration is sluggish, KS-ish (still getting KS code sooo...), but my main issue is the BUCKING. I get hard bucks specifically when throttle is constant while crusing. I find myself gently speeding up and coasting down to avoid it.

I'm also having some trouble making sense of this, what is the ideal voltage to measure? Do I need a second person to apply throttle as I read the meter?



The TPS sensor has adjustments and I am trying to figure out the correct placement, it seems measuring voltage is the way, but to which terminal?

[Infinitiguy19]

Do you have any more info on the Throttle Position Sensor you bought just in case?

[paranoidjack]

Do you have any more info on the Throttle Position Sensor you bought just in case?

Like what? What do you mean Paul? I'm not even sure the bucking is being caused by the TPS (since installing the new TPS, the code has gone and not returned, though the symptoms remain). My next step is the EGRC solenoid which is also throwing a code. Also o2 sensor. I have to replace the exhaust soon, so it will all have to happen at once.

[Lokim]

Check the MAF sensor out. Make sure the connector pins are clean and tight. Check out this thread: post5573800.html#p5573800

[NightRiderQ45]

As far as bucking, check my thread in my signature. That thread is heavily detailed. If you are having any of the issues with bucking like I was having, then your answer is in my thread. Oh I just noticed that Lokim ref. my thread also.

[Infinitiguy19]

Do you have any more info on the Throttle Position Sensor you bought just in case?

Like what? What do you mean Paul? I'm not even sure the bucking is being caused by the TPS (since installing the new TPS, the code has gone and not returned, though the symptoms remain). My next step is the EGRC solenoid which is also throwing a code. Also o2 sensor. I have to replace the exhaust soon, so it will all have to happen at once.

I meant a Auto Zone Part number so I can see if it will fit my Q for the hell of it. If not then other people have a cheaper Throttle Position thats in every way OEM.

[paranoidjack]

Paul - it's MARKED on their site for $69.99 as a Duralast TPS462 - however it is CLEARLY OEM.

[paranoidjack]

As far as bucking, check my thread in my signature. That thread is heavily detailed. If you are having any of the issues with bucking like I was having, then your answer is in my thread. Oh I just noticed that Lokim ref. my thread also.

thanks dude. That was a good read. I'll try cleaning it first, but replacing it next. I've already replaced the TPS with no noticeable change. Still throwing KS code. Wondering if that could be stemming from a bad MAF messing up my a/f ratio, and the KS's trying to compensate for it. I really have no idea, but I'll start with a MAF.

[NightRiderQ45]

As far as bucking, check my thread in my signature. That thread is heavily detailed. If you are having any of the issues with bucking like I was having, then your answer is in my thread. Oh I just noticed that Lokim ref. my thread also.

thanks dude. That was a good read. I'll try cleaning it first, but replacing it next. I've already replaced the TPS with no noticeable change. Still throwing KS code. Wondering if that could be stemming from a bad MAF messing up my a/f ratio, and the KS's trying to compensate for it. I really have no idea, but I'll start with a MAF.

A bad MAF throws a lot of electrical items off. If you look at the FSM, a lot of items are feed from the MAF. I would check the MAF first buddy. I can almost guarantee that is your problem.

[paranoidjack]

OK, well I went to remove it today and saw something disconcerting. First let me say I am embarrassed because in 180k I have never cleaned it. Secondly, it seems it has been replaced before! Since I bought the car with 72k I was surprised to see it. 3 of the 4 bolts were 10mm standard, however one was a weird torx size I didn't have. Also, there was chalk marker all over the bottom of it (like a junkyard). SO, it must have been replaced before. I didn't have THAT torx bit (of COURSE), so I tried spinning the whole assembly off the intake tubing and since it was so damn hot out and I'm russian, I wasn't as gentle as I should have been and cracked the part of the MAF housing holding the torx bolt right off. It was probably subconscious because as soon as I determined it had been replaced with a junkyard unit I wanted it GONE. Anyway, new one ordered and on the way.

It WAS filthy. Also my air filter was amazingly filthy. Anyway, new one coming, thanks for the brain-poke as I hadn't considered MAF.

I'll let you guys know what happens, again thanks Night.