First things first, I got my swap from heavy throttle. they are good guys who seem to know what they are doing, and maybe i rushed them too much, but my car has way too many swap based problems for the money i payed for it.
the problems...
oil leak. oil all over the front cover and alternator and what not. yes i have read the other topics and i will look around for it soon. it doesnt leak alot, but its still a leak.
every once in a while the car wont react to boost. i have to keep it at 0 psi or under or the car bogs down and wont accelerate. the car also acts like it isnt getting enough fuel for the amount of air... doesnt pull as hard as it should. im thinking its either the maf or fuel pump... im thinking that HT didnt install the warlboro pump that i payed for, bc it doesnt look like the tank was opened up.
when i first got it the bov was to the atmosphere and the vaccum line was on the bottom of the greddy bov. and every time i boosted hard and then went to idle it would stall, so i turned the bov around to re-circulate it and i moved the vaccum line to the other port, and it idles fine now. but when that happened the "not reacting to boost" happened. it still didnt pull as hard as it should have with the original setup.
ive noticed that since i have turned the bov around it will boost to 15 psi for a sec then go back to the set 10psi setting, whats up with that?
im running tanabe 3" all the way back and after running it a while i can really feel heat along the drivers side of the tunnel. idk if this is normal or what.
there is an extra set of wires with a connector comming out of the ecu that isnt hooked up... is this supposed to go to anything??
the wiper motor doesnt work and the passenger window wont roll up, both worked before the swap.
brake light is constantly on, it might be the e-brake switch thing, but i doubt it.
my sr is the only one i have ever seen besides the one at HT. so with that said there is no one around me who knows sr engines, HT is a 4 hour drive away, but i dont think it is worth it to drive back... in a few weeks i am going to forget about my car for the winter and hope it works in the spring, so until then i would like to get any problems hammered out so i can have something good to start back up with in the spring.
thanks a lot to anyone who can help.
travis
Many problems with SR swap...Please help...
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Hijacker
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'94 F-150 - Location: Fredericksburg, VA
the oil leak is more than likely the front main seal. That seal goes out real easy on SRs.
How positive are you that the fuel tank has never been opened? I would go ahead and pop the cover off and take a look to make certain that the walbro was put in.
Have you checked your ECU for codes? To check the ECU, find the small oval window and turn the screw in there. The red LED will begin to flash. The codes will be two digit numbers. You count the long flashes for the 10s column, and you count the quick flashes for the 1s column. 55 is an all clear (nothing wrong) FYI.
The guys at HT might have disconnected the wiper motor since it's right next to the cruise control selenoid.
Also, check to make sure that the passenger door harness wasn't unplugged. Don't know why they would have done that, but you should check it none the less.
How positive are you that the fuel tank has never been opened? I would go ahead and pop the cover off and take a look to make certain that the walbro was put in.
Have you checked your ECU for codes? To check the ECU, find the small oval window and turn the screw in there. The red LED will begin to flash. The codes will be two digit numbers. You count the long flashes for the 10s column, and you count the quick flashes for the 1s column. 55 is an all clear (nothing wrong) FYI.
The guys at HT might have disconnected the wiper motor since it's right next to the cruise control selenoid.
Also, check to make sure that the passenger door harness wasn't unplugged. Don't know why they would have done that, but you should check it none the less.
The vaccume line should be running to the larger port coming out of the BOV, the port that is screwed into the purple section, the bottom (port in the silver part) port should be left open. And yes, BOVs that are atmospheric will stall out when you go from boost to idle, thats very common.
What do you mean, turned around, you just turned it on its mount? That shouldn't affect anything with the function of the BOV.
As for the 15psi thing, what boost controller are you running? It may not be setup properly, or you may just be hitting a boost spike at 15psi and then it levels off to where it is set 10psi. HOWEVER, the stock turbo shouldn't be pushed to 15psi, it won't last very long if you do. We've got 3 SR swaps around town and they all seem to have a max constant boost of around 9 or 10 psi so I've come to believe thats about all those older turbos can really handle without being rebuilt.
The engine harness has nothing to do with the power windows, you may just have a bad motor, blown fuse, bad switch, etc. There is nothing in the wiring they would have done that connects to the window.
Not to be an ***, but you took a car that was running what I'd consider to be normal (BOV stall), started messing around under the hood and now the car runs poorly. Thats not anyones fault but your own.
I would suggest checking around for broken vaccume lines, or even disconnected ones. Make sure the vaccume line on the BOV is going to the port on the purple section and that you are recirculating AFTER the MAFS
Are your rear brake lights constantly on, or just the brake light on the dash?
As for the oil leak, double check the valve cover, it wouldn't take much of a leak from it to cover everything, and if you didn't have a new VC gasket installed or the VC pulled for any reason and reinstalled, then that is something I would suggest doing.
Its almost impossible to know if an engine has a slight oil leak as an importer. Most import companies will clean the motor thoroughly so the shop that buys it and installs it has no idea. its not until you get the car on the road and puts some stress on it that the leaks will start to show themselves, and when they do, its usually all at once. Leaks are just a fact of life when it comes to older motors.
What do you mean, turned around, you just turned it on its mount? That shouldn't affect anything with the function of the BOV.
As for the 15psi thing, what boost controller are you running? It may not be setup properly, or you may just be hitting a boost spike at 15psi and then it levels off to where it is set 10psi. HOWEVER, the stock turbo shouldn't be pushed to 15psi, it won't last very long if you do. We've got 3 SR swaps around town and they all seem to have a max constant boost of around 9 or 10 psi so I've come to believe thats about all those older turbos can really handle without being rebuilt.
The engine harness has nothing to do with the power windows, you may just have a bad motor, blown fuse, bad switch, etc. There is nothing in the wiring they would have done that connects to the window.
Not to be an ***, but you took a car that was running what I'd consider to be normal (BOV stall), started messing around under the hood and now the car runs poorly. Thats not anyones fault but your own.
I would suggest checking around for broken vaccume lines, or even disconnected ones. Make sure the vaccume line on the BOV is going to the port on the purple section and that you are recirculating AFTER the MAFS
Are your rear brake lights constantly on, or just the brake light on the dash?
As for the oil leak, double check the valve cover, it wouldn't take much of a leak from it to cover everything, and if you didn't have a new VC gasket installed or the VC pulled for any reason and reinstalled, then that is something I would suggest doing.
Its almost impossible to know if an engine has a slight oil leak as an importer. Most import companies will clean the motor thoroughly so the shop that buys it and installs it has no idea. its not until you get the car on the road and puts some stress on it that the leaks will start to show themselves, and when they do, its usually all at once. Leaks are just a fact of life when it comes to older motors.
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Hijacker
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'94 F-150 - Location: Fredericksburg, VA
Re: (BaliLover)
About the brake lights. Was this car a manual to begin with, or was a 5 speed swap performed on it in conjunction with the SR swap? It's possible that one of the brake pedal switches was never plugged back in.
As for the leak, since he claimed alternator was covered, the safest assumption is the $5 front oil main. As oil leaks out of it, it hits the spinning crank pully and gets flung all over the lower accessories. The power steering pump was an oil nightmare for a few weeks while I tried to find time to get the crank off.
I could see some over zealous, swap monkey unplug the door harness since it's next to an engine harness plug. If it were a fuse, both windows wouldn't function properly.BaliLover wrote:The engine harness has nothing to do with the power windows, you may just have a bad motor, blown fuse, bad switch, etc. There is nothing in the wiring they would have done that connects to the window.
As for the leak, since he claimed alternator was covered, the safest assumption is the $5 front oil main. As oil leaks out of it, it hits the spinning crank pully and gets flung all over the lower accessories. The power steering pump was an oil nightmare for a few weeks while I tried to find time to get the crank off.
Re: Many problems with SR swap...Please help... (travis newberry)
First things first you should have called them and talked to them about the problems first and yes you probably did rush them too much that's why your car runs like crap. Give them a call and see what they can do.
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f150intally
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Re: Many problems with SR swap...Please help... (travis newberry)
dude, in the grand scheme of swaps, your problems are very minor. Before you come on here complaining about HT, take your car back to them and let them take care of it.
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Luke
Re: Many problems with SR swap...Please help... (travis newberry)
I'll agree, it's probably the front main seal. Cheap Fix.travis newberry wrote:oil leak. oil all over the front cover and alternator and what not. yes i have read the other topics and i will look around for it soon. it doesnt leak alot, but its still a leak.
Quote »every once in a while the car wont react to boost. i have to keep it at 0 psi or under or the car bogs down and wont accelerate. the car also acts like it isnt getting enough fuel for the amount of air... doesnt pull as hard as it should. im thinking its either the maf or fuel pump... im thinking that HT didnt install the warlboro pump that i payed for, bc it doesnt look like the tank was opened up. [/quote]This sounds like a boost leak to me. Check all your intercooler Piping.Believe me, they are good guys over at HT. I got all my parts from them and i have NO complaints. Things that were wrong, they fixed without question.Quote »when i first got it the bov was to the atmosphere and the vaccum line was on the bottom of the greddy bov. and every time i boosted hard and then went to idle it would stall, so i turned the bov around to re-circulate it and i moved the vaccum line to the other port, and it idles fine now. but when that happened the "not reacting to boost" happened. it still didnt pull as hard as it should have with the original setup. [/quote] Re-circulating is a great idea. My SR drives 10 times better now that my Greddy Type-S is recirced. Moving the vacuum line to the other port was wrong. Leave the vacuum line going to the throttle body on the larger port that goes to the purple part. Most people don't know this, but the bov will perform better if you T off the wastegate signal and connect it to the smaller nipple. The BOV responds much better and it even changes the sound of it (more high pitched chirp than before).Quote »ive noticed that since i have turned the bov around it will boost to 15 psi for a sec then go back to the set 10psi setting, whats up with that? [/quote] Are you running a boost controller? Check your wastegate signal lines.Quote »im running tanabe 3" all the way back and after running it a while i can really feel heat along the drivers side of the tunnel. idk if this is normal or what. [/quote] I don't experience this, but you are running a 3" exhaust without any heatshields... feeling the heat is probably normal. Quote »there is an extra set of wires with a connector comming out of the ecu that isnt hooked up... is this supposed to go to anything?? [/quote]This is also normal. After I did my swap, there were wires running up to the dash that didn't need to be hooked up for the engine to run properly. I had a bunch and there are no problems.Quote »the wiper motor doesnt work and the passenger window wont roll up, both worked before the swap.[/quote]Check the plugs for these things and if they are connected, look at the fuses.
brake light is constantly on, it might be the e-brake switch thing, but i doubt it.[\QUOTE]If it is the e-brake light in the dash, then you should check the switch.
Personally, if I had paid HT to do the swap, I would've taken it back before working on it first. You don't have any serious problems though. Small problems like this are the breaks of engine swaps.
I chose to do the swap myself just because if something goes wrong, i'll be able to fix it. Good Luck.
Re: Many problems with SR swap...Please help... (travis newberry)
ok, im not bashing HT, but some of the things that were done just seemed unprofessional, which im not going to get into unless someone wants me to. but in response to the prior responses... the brake light is probably the switch on the e brake, but it went off for 30 seconds when i added some brake fluid, idk if it had anything to do with it. i fixed the windows. and all i did under the hood is turn the bov around and re-circulate it and i moved the vaccum line, as per instructions by ht. also, im running the dni manual boost controller. and about the front oil seal, how much work is required in changing the front seal? hopefully i can get all the problems worked out before winter or early spring, i am planning on getting a newer 240 that has less rust on it. and this week i am going to check for codes and check the fuel pump, the reason i am thinking they didnt do it was bc the cover was removed, and the screws that hold the sending unit assembly in seemed rusted in place, but maybe they attempted to do something back there bc the fuel gauge no longer works, but its ok, i get 450 km per tank, yea its in km bc i got the jdm gauges, i already got a ticket bc i thought 120 km was 55mph, but its only 90km. oh well...