Alright, ill give that a try.Towncivilian wrote:Get GL-4 stuff only, not dual rated GL-4 and GL-5 stuff like that Royal Purple Max Gear. Amsoil MTG, Redline MT-90 are excellent choices. Get this drain plug socket set for its 13mm drain plug socket to use for the fill & drain plugs. Open the fill plug first, otherwise if you can't get the fill plug loose after you've got the drain plug out you're pretty much SOL.
Hmm okay, ill give those a shot, did some quick googling, any place to find cheaper than 15 a quart, ill have to buy 11 of these right? it says 10.75 on the FSMTowncivilian wrote:GL-5 gear oils contain additives that can be harmful to yellow metals (brass synchros). When a fluid states that it is GL-4 and GL-5 suitable, it is likely referring to use in a differential, not in a manual transmission.
Try a 1/2" drive breaker bar first, it might come out easy, I'm not sure. I'm just suggesting it because the diff plugs share the same plugs (as far as I know) and I started warping the plug metal after a while of trying to loosen it.
And did these socket sets help with that warping problem?Towncivilian wrote:
Try a 1/2" drive breaker bar first, it might come out easy, I'm not sure. I'm just suggesting it because the diff plugs share the same plugs (as far as I know) and I started warping the plug metal after a while of trying to loosen it.
Jeez your right, sorry i have been off today, and i just checked your profile over on NPORA, Your nineteen? I so pictured you as some 40 something year old dude, sitting behind his laptop. lolTowncivilian wrote:The quantity is specified in PINTS, not quarts! So you need about 5.39 quarts.
I had the Nissan dealer perform the drain & fill and I also supplied new plugs after the metal began to warp, so I can't say I have experience with the 13mm drain plug socket. They've been recommended on NPORA, though.
Towncivilian wrote:Yep, 19.
I bought new OEM ones (though I probably could have gotten ones from any H223B axle at the junkyard, you're right). You don't need to replace them unless you really disfigure them during removal.
Wow, okay, now i see what you meant!!Towncivilian wrote:No way in hell I'd run that after seeing how much it corrodes copper (see this study, page 17).
But could it bias? i mean it was tested by amsoil, who coincidentally was deemed the best oil tested?Towncivilian wrote:No way in hell I'd run that after seeing how much it corrodes copper (see this study, page 17).
Alright sounds good, thanks man, really appreciate the help.Towncivilian wrote:Everything is explained in this thread. I'd use gear oil in the transfer case; ATF is acceptable, but probably not the best fluid for the application. ATF is used at the factory likely for simplicity's sake.
Oh and you mentioned not to mixed ATF and GEAR oil for the Transfer Case, why is that? does it become super corrosive?Towncivilian wrote:Everything is explained in this thread. I'd use gear oil in the transfer case; ATF is acceptable, but probably not the best fluid for the application. ATF is used at the factory likely for simplicity's sake.
Towncivilian wrote:The FSM says not to mix the two.
It does come with ATF. I doubt the small amounts residual ATF left from draining will be a problem - if anything it will just thin the fluid very slightly. If you are really concerned, fill with gear oil, drive around for a few thousand miles, then drain & refill again with gear oil to ensure all ATF is gone.
Towncivilian wrote:Use whatever gear oil you'll be running in the transmission.