Manual Brake Advice

ONLY for ADVANCED technical discussion about the 240sx!
firejackal
Posts: 4
Joined: Sat Jan 24, 2015 5:22 am
Car: 1996 Nissan 240SX SE

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It's been a long time since I've lurked and posted on here, but I have a certain situation I'm hoping someone can explain to me what I'm doing wrong, or what would work better for my setup.

This is my 96 240sx SE that I've had for a while now,
Within a few years ago I put a 2JZ-GE in it, then put a turbo on it a year ago.
My braking set up is front and rear calipers + pads from the Q45 (still looking for a solution for rear e-brake.)

Because of the intake I'm running on the engine I cannot use the stock brake master cylinder, the lines off the master hit against the intake manifold.
The brake booster barely fits, rubs on a corner, and only way to take it off/on is by taking the intake manifold off (this one is a pita to do.)

So what I was doing for a while was running a 200SX (sentra) master cylinder because the fittings on the right side but braking was less than ideal. It worked but the proportional was off, and like mentioned the brake booster was getting some rubbing to it.

So when I had to take the engine out to change out the clutch I decided to go to a manual brake cylinder in order to get those engine components to fit better without damaging anything.

So this is what I did:
1) bought the GKTECH adaptor to fit a vertical mounting cylinder on the flywheel.
2) bought a wilwood 260-6765 (7/8", square metal body, with one outlet.)
3) bought the wilwood proportional valve with two in, three out.
4) Ran completely new brake lines to go where I have things at now.
5) T'd my output from the master cylinder to the two inputs on the prop valve.

So this setup, the brake pedal is hard to press, only has about 20mm of travel. Driving it can barely stop, I would slam my foot against the pedal and the car would just be barely slowing down. (only been testing this at 10mph.)

So I figured that's not correct.
So I then bought an AFCO 1" 6620112 master cylinder (looks like a clone of the wilwood 260-3378)
Same situation with this one. Except for the pedal barely has any travel, maybe 5-10mm of travel. But stopping is the same way. Barely wants to.

So I've been told to run a shorter master cylinder at 1" bore like my AFCO unit, like an wilwood compact 260-10375.
But I don't want to waste any more money I don't need to spend on stuff that won't work for me.

So any suggestions? Any advice? Am I doing something wrong or expecting something that won't work?
There is no way to drive this on the track how it is safely.
Thanks.


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VStar650CL
Technical Expert
Posts: 8294
Joined: Thu Nov 12, 2020 1:25 pm
Car: 2013 Nissan Altima 2.5 SL
2004 Nissan Altima 2.5 S

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Dunno if maybe this will help you, @Float_6969 has a CA18-swapped S14 with a honker turbo that was boiling his booster. He discovered a B13/N13 booster fit in the hole and was a lot smaller. There are dims and pics in the post.
post6832994.html

firejackal
Posts: 4
Joined: Sat Jan 24, 2015 5:22 am
Car: 1996 Nissan 240SX SE

Post

VStar650CL wrote:
Tue Jun 14, 2022 8:29 pm
Dunno if maybe this will help you, @Float_6969 has a CA18-swapped S14 with a honker turbo that was boiling his booster. He discovered a B13/N13 booster fit in the hole and was a lot smaller. There are dims and pics in the post.
post6832994.html
I'll check it out thanks, my s14 booster was plenty thin to start with so I'll be curious if that's even thinner. I bought a 200sx/sentra booster for the heck of it and that thing is twice as thick.
I was also thinking about if a diesel truck's hydro booster would work.


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