Manifold of Choice

Information on the naturally-aspirated KA24E and KA24DE engines.
d240t2
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Jason is still making the manifolds, AFAIK. They are really busy at the shop working on customers cars right lately, and they'll be taking some time off for the holidays and the manifold is pretty labor intensive, so don't expect it to get to you real quick.

I'll talk a little more about my opinion on the RevHard manifold. Sure, the RH placement is ok with an on-center turbo...but you have to loose that extra bit of efficiency and you can't use a T3 housing in that case. Not very flexible. Also, the bolt holes go all the way through and are threaded...good luck keeping those bolts in. That is one of the main reasons I built a new manifold. And why should you have to take a grinder to the ports to match them up (that took me a good bit of time to do as well).

It just kind of sucks to buy a $450 cast manifold and then have to spend 4 hours working on it with a grinder, chopsaw, and drill, all to be able to make it fit ok with only 1 turbine choice and have the bolts fall out.

Dennis


Jonny 290
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I'm aware of the problems with the revhard manifold and the turbine angle/placement.

I'm going to be investigating taking an extra T3 flange (my mani is drilled for both, and i'm going t3/t04e) and having it machined so that instead of the two faces being perfectly parallel, the top will be machined to be tilted towards the engine about three to five degrees.With washers on the top side of the turbo to manifold bolts, it might work, and angle it towards the engine enough that it will clear the brake booster and all that rot.

Loctite and/or a nut on the back side of the turbo bolts should hold them in just fine.

I agree - for 400 bucks, it's not worth it. I paid less than half of that for mine, and won't be hacking at it for hours with a die grinder - i'm taking it to a shop to have the flange slit and bolt holes enlarged.

Mind you, this is all theoretical. I haven't gotten all my parts in, though my manifold and the turbo are arriving before Christmas.

j-z
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ok since webtv sucks major nuts someones gonna have to follow my directions and post up this link for everyone since i cant. dont ask me why. ok, go do a search for "where to find a ka24de turbo manifold???" it was created by alterboy82. then scroll down a lil bit to the user name fritts. click on ryans 240sx site. then once your at his site click on links. then click on turbo install II. then go down midpage and check out how nice the mani, turbo, wg, and dp setup looks. its pic 1 of downpipe pics. its beautiful the way the guy welded everything up. im gonna get the stainless kit and change the wg up a lil bit. have it enter the dp at more of a angle so it doesnt interupt the dp flow as much. if someone can post the pic for everyone to see i think that will make a lot of peoples minds up.

TrunkMonkey
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j-z wrote:ok since webtv sucks major nuts someones gonna have to follow my directions and post up this link for everyone since i cant. dont ask me why. ok, go do a search for "where to find a ka24de turbo manifold???" it was created by alterboy82. then scroll down a lil bit to the user name fritts. click on ryans 240sx site. then once your at his site click on links. then click on turbo install II. then go down midpage and check out how nice the mani, turbo, wg, and dp setup looks. its pic 1 of downpipe pics. its beautiful the way the guy welded everything up.

or you can just go here. that jgs manifold looks nice coated.

im gonna get the stainless kit and change the wg up a lil bit.

stainless steel kit? what kit?

have it enter the dp at more of a angle so it doesnt interupt the dp flow as much.

imo, the best thing to do is to connect the wastegate dump tube at the bottom of the down pipe, so you can have a much smoother merge. anywhere in the middle (regardless of the angle) is going to disrupt flow.

-demetrius

j-z
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thanks for doing that demetrius. yes, jgs has a stainless log mani kit. its $175 plus shipping plus $25 for the wg flange. the head flange is mild steel. but hey you cant beat a stainless log mani for roughly $200. in order for me to change the wg dump at more of an angle i would have to go atleast 6'' further down the dp. thats right around the sweet spot. that would be a very nice setup for next to nothing. with it being stainless i dont see a reason to coat it.

d240t2
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Loctite? On a manifold bolt? I hope you are kidding. High temp loctite is rated to what, 500F? EGTS are what, 1500F at cruise? How are you supposed to use nuts to hold in place...the other end of the bolt hole is inside the manifold? How are you going to hold that nut on while you tighten the turbine on?

I am speaking from experience...keeping bolts in a RevHard manifold is difficult. Try reading Maximum Boost by Corky Bell...the worst choice for fasteners is a bolt into a threaded receiver like on the RH manifold...and even worse is having the heat and pressure on the back side of the bolt trying to push it out, in my opinion.

If you are putting another flange on the RH manifold, you will have to weld up the old bolt holes and redrill/tap new ones. Think about it...if you change the angle of the turbine flange, the angle of the bolts is going to need to change.

Dennis

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fiznat
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Glad you're around more Dennis. It's nice to have a voice of (experienced) reason.

Thanks for the info on the UH mani, I'll be ordering one very soon.

j-z
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you could get the turbo to angle towards the motor more. i think that instead of trying to machine the manifold itself that it would be better to machine the actual turbine. im not clear on what exactly what youre trying to say. ok, so leave the mani alone. machine the turbine housing flange. you place the housing on the mani and now that its at an angle your gonna need some longer bolts. instead of putting the long bolts straight down and tighten to where only a corner of the bolt head/washer touches the turbine housing do this. just have the shop machine you some thick angled washers to match the lean of the turbine housing so you can torque the bolts down and have the pressure even just as if it was flat. i dont see anything wrong with doing that. i had my t3 mani flange tapped and just had the turbo bolted straight into the flange. after 10 months of driving i saw nothing wrong with doing it that way. so i hope yall catch my drift and understand what im trying to say. if i had paper i could draw it out. but hopefully i explained it well enough.

illspace
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I havent read this whole post b/c of the BS flying around here. I will say this stainless is superior to cast, only if built right. I am having full-race.com build me a manifold. If any of you guys know anything about turbo hondas, these guys are the best. period.

j-z
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ive always found it best to read the whole entire thread. that way i know exactly whats going on. and i pretty much basically already posted what you just did.

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red240ne
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fiznat wrote:Glad you're around more Dennis. It's nice to have a voice of (experienced) reason.

Thanks for the info on the UH mani, I'll be ordering one very soon.


They sent me an email only a month ago saying that they won't be making manifolds for a long time to come.

illspace
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j-z wrote:ive always found it best to read the whole entire thread. that way i know exactly whats going on. and i pretty much basically already posted what you just did.


I was in no mood to read the whole post at that moment. Sorry. I posted something a little bit different, I said, they will make me a manifold, and yes I am sure I will pay out the *** for it, but that is one less part to worry about. I chose this route b/c I would like a little bit of spool with my turbo :)

Nathan
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illspace, I for one can't wait to see a full race KA manifold, that should be NICE :D be prepared for a 1300 dollar bill though ;)

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fiznat
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red240ne wrote:They sent me an email only a month ago saying that they won't be making manifolds for a long time to come.


Arrugh. Conflicting evidence. I guess I'm gonna have to be a little more persistent with my phone calls.

As for the full race manis, I emailed them and here's the reply:

Quote »thanks very much for your interest. We have built manifolds for the KA24already, they are very similar to our RWD sr20det manifolds, and are flangedto run any turbo or wastegate you like. The price is 1199 on it and if youahve any other questions feel free to email me back or give us a call at480-830-1522. Thanks

-geoff[/quote]

j-z
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full-race is the best of the best! it is worth every damn penny you spend on any of their products. if you have money why not go for the best? everything they do is a work of art. post pics when you get that bad boy!


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