Manifold nuts keep loosening...

Discuss the RB20, RB25 and RB26 series engines.
Tictakman
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Joined: Wed Oct 23, 2002 2:42 pm

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As the topic says my manifold nuts that hold my gt35r keep backing off. currently they are brass. i think that may be the problem so im going to change them with steel tomorrow. anything else i should try?

i was told to use brass bc they would ever seize on me like steel ones might.

Zak


blk90s13
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lock tight ?

Florida240sx
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lock washer???

Tictakman
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Joined: Wed Oct 23, 2002 2:42 pm

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lock tite doesnt work with high heat....lock washers also become mallable when high heat is introduced. the lock washers become washers with slits in them.

ill see if regular steel ones work tom

gawdzilla
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get some of these.. worked well for mehttp://www.stage8.com/auto.htm

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Carl H
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brass nuts wtf?get some proper steel nuts and some locking tabs, i used the ones off of my stock manifold and it worked quite well...make sure to use some high temp antiseize on them and you will be fine.

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krayton
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Carl H wrote:brass nuts wtf?get some proper steel nuts and some locking tabs, i used the ones off of my stock manifold and it worked quite well...make sure to use some high temp antiseize on them and you will be fine.
this man knows it

stock locking tab is the shizzznit. nissan put it on there for a reason.

also, if u dont have yours anymore, its really simple to make. get some of those metal snipper things and cut it out from a sheet of metal

Bluefire
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Go to the local nut and bolt store get yourself some locking nuts. They are the types of nuts used on the manifold. Don't waste time on lock washer or the stock tabs.

-Bluefire

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krayton
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^ my stock nuts werent locking nuts. what kind were yours?

and your not talking about the ones with nylon inserts right? cause the heat tears those up

and the heat will kill the lock washers too, turn them into some regular washers

Darius
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Buy new, steel, locking nuts with the ridges or fins on the bottom that keep them from backing out. Best way to go when using nuts and studs. Stock locking tab would probably be reliable too if you still have it.

Tictakman
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well i went to 5 different auto stores and home improvement stores and all they had were brass and steel nothing grade 8...i ended up getting steel ones for the time being. ill try to source out a nut a bolt shop i guess.

this is a m10 x 1.50

Zak

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Kansei240sx
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Yeah, brass... was a horrible idea ( No offense ) Brass has a great heat dissapation, but also a low melting point or a low heating point to where it gets very maleable when heated to a specific point, and that would be exhuast temps, becuase you EVEN solder brass. The reason they backed out my guess is... Cast iron heat + brass threads = goodbye threads.

Do what everyone else suggests and get some anti-seize with some steel hardware.

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BoostFab
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do not use brass bolts to bolt down your turbo, if you don't want your turbo falling off.use steel bolts and some of these;

Bluefire
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krayton wrote:^ my stock nuts werent locking nuts. what kind were yours?

and your not talking about the ones with nylon inserts right? cause the heat tears those up

and the heat will kill the lock washers too, turn them into some regular washers
No not the nylon nuts or the flanged serrated nuts. If you look at the backside of a locking nut it looks slightly triangular. The threads are kind of crimped at the back of the nut. If you still can't tell then you'll know when you screw them on. You should be able to hand tighten them a few threads, then a wrench is required to tighten them the rest of the way. I know for a fact the manifold to head nuts are like this

-Bluefire

spivic99
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We use these on all our turbo setups never had one come loose http://www.fastenal.com/web/pr...20000

Imissmyturbo
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Is your GT35R bolted right to the manifold or do you have a spacer in there? Mine would always get loose. I found securing my DP to the transmission help out alot.

Tictakman
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Joined: Wed Oct 23, 2002 2:42 pm

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hey, i actually have a spacer in between the turbo and manifold. as of right now regular nuts are working fine.


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