ok this is about the sr and the turbo ka so i couldnt put it in either but if it needs moved, move it. ahh theres just so much information and different opinions. yea i went aread this thread and still reading it: lol
http://www.nissaninfiniticlub....he+ka
i want the information right here and direct as possible. i am on a tight budget considering im still in highschool. ive thought about taking the ka replacing the pistons and other things that should be replaced and turboing it, new mainifold, and a turbo cam. obviously the ka has more tq and the sr has the hp. my car is a dailey driver but i want to build it as fast as i can for the legal quarter mile but keeping prices to a minimum. theres always the ca but i know nothing of it so im not going there. i want to go with turbo ka because not as many people have it and id have a brand new turbo but then my car has high mileage (158k) so theres the newer sr20 but with a used turbo, its gone under alot even if its only seen 35k miles or so. tell me what you think is best under my conditions and ill keep reading up to learn more.
making my 240 fast
if you are truley on a tight budget...then staying normally aspirated will be your best bet....you can waste all your money on that new turbo, intercooler, injectors, fuel pump, manifold, new exhaust, ecy reprogram...then blow it up the first time you boost it and you're totally out of a car...if you're going to do this..just make sure you have a backup car ot use...or a real nice bike to pedal around town-....highschool is not the time to do all this unless you're loaded-
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scream240sx
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Kaioshin1982
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- Car: Not a 240 =) Thinking of getting one again...
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nlzmo400r
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- Car: '02 Nissan Altima QR25DE
'93 Nissan 240SX hatch KA24DE
they have a stroker kit for the ka, im not too sure who does it but i know it goes from 2.4 to 2.6liters, and that would be expensive sorta, but big gains, and also staying NA is obviously ur choice if ur on a budget, so the natural i/h/e and try cam gears, camshaft, new clutch, short shifter, bigger injectors, pump fuel rails, (reprogramming ecu, or piggyback), new pistons, valve springs, all kinds of suspensions upgrades, better tires, weight reduction (back seat- GONE) ignition wires, advanced timing, etc.etc.etc., those are jus off the top of my head, and possibilities are endless, jus depends on how tight ur budget is man, hope i was some help, or atleast gave u some ideas
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jrc90240sx
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- Joined: Mon Jul 29, 2002 9:21 am
Well nothing is really cheap, if you want lots of power, and I will even go out and say alot of NA hp is more expensive then a forced setup making the same.
Your car has alot of miles on it, so i would take that into consideration. take me for an exaple, i have spent well over 3k on rebuilding my tired KA24e engine. I wont be putting out lots of power either. so there is alot of money there (SR would have been cheaper and making 50+ more hp).
Its not going to happen over night, even though some may wish this.
What I would do is start with upgrades that dont mater if you go NA, Turbo, or Swap. So you need to make a list of parts that you can keep for any of the setups, theres exhaust, eletrice fan, underdrive pulley (if you dont swap), ignition upgrade, cheap custom intake (Cone filter, with cheap custom piping setup, so you can keep the filter with turbo, and ditch the cheap piping), Cam (mild and only if your not swaping), cam gears (again only if you dont sway), short shifter, fuel system upgrade (pump, FPR, larger injectors), maybe a ECU retune (again not swaping), LSD, Light Flywheel (if your not swaping). there are some other little things, but they starting really getting expensive. and your really only left with swap, or rebuild.
Your car has alot of miles on it, so i would take that into consideration. take me for an exaple, i have spent well over 3k on rebuilding my tired KA24e engine. I wont be putting out lots of power either. so there is alot of money there (SR would have been cheaper and making 50+ more hp).
Its not going to happen over night, even though some may wish this.
What I would do is start with upgrades that dont mater if you go NA, Turbo, or Swap. So you need to make a list of parts that you can keep for any of the setups, theres exhaust, eletrice fan, underdrive pulley (if you dont swap), ignition upgrade, cheap custom intake (Cone filter, with cheap custom piping setup, so you can keep the filter with turbo, and ditch the cheap piping), Cam (mild and only if your not swaping), cam gears (again only if you dont sway), short shifter, fuel system upgrade (pump, FPR, larger injectors), maybe a ECU retune (again not swaping), LSD, Light Flywheel (if your not swaping). there are some other little things, but they starting really getting expensive. and your really only left with swap, or rebuild.
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nissanrcer240
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- Car: 90 Nissan 240SX SR20DET
- Contact:
you could always get the biggest bang for the buck and get sum naaws;) ..j/p
actualy i've heard good things about the ZEX kit , and i think its made for stock engines so it shouldnt hurt your engine especialy if its not stock, im sure that would make a pretty big difference as far as h/p gains w/o spending alot of money...but of course i've never had any kind of nitrous whatsoever so dont take my work for it
actualy i've heard good things about the ZEX kit , and i think its made for stock engines so it shouldnt hurt your engine especialy if its not stock, im sure that would make a pretty big difference as far as h/p gains w/o spending alot of money...but of course i've never had any kind of nitrous whatsoever so dont take my work for it
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jmillheiser
- Posts: 255
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on your budget start with bolt ons like I/H/E and a high flow cat.
a 50hp shot wet nitrous kit will give you a good boost in power for the strip.
underdrive pulleys are another good mod for a stock engine.
an ECU upgrade will also work well but DO NOT USE IT WITH NITROUS. to use an upgraded ECU with nitrous you would have to get an aftermarket ignition module that has a boost retard (retards the timing under boost or nitrous). these are not cheap.
also if you want to race decide what type of racing you want to do. if you want to drag race then basic bolt ons wont put you into a class that you cant compete in. if you want to autox even a cold air intake or aftermarket shifter or steering wheel will put you into street prepared instead of stock and you wont be competetive (you need coil overs and race tires to be competitive in street prepared - which gets expensive).
if you want a relatively inexpensive handling upgrade try a set of either the eibach pro kit springs or the TIEN S Tech springs. these will also lower your car a little
a 50hp shot wet nitrous kit will give you a good boost in power for the strip.
underdrive pulleys are another good mod for a stock engine.
an ECU upgrade will also work well but DO NOT USE IT WITH NITROUS. to use an upgraded ECU with nitrous you would have to get an aftermarket ignition module that has a boost retard (retards the timing under boost or nitrous). these are not cheap.
also if you want to race decide what type of racing you want to do. if you want to drag race then basic bolt ons wont put you into a class that you cant compete in. if you want to autox even a cold air intake or aftermarket shifter or steering wheel will put you into street prepared instead of stock and you wont be competetive (you need coil overs and race tires to be competitive in street prepared - which gets expensive).
if you want a relatively inexpensive handling upgrade try a set of either the eibach pro kit springs or the TIEN S Tech springs. these will also lower your car a little
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scream240sx
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PROJECTRB240SX
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- Car: 1972 DATSUN 240Z W/ SR20DET
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PROJECTRB240SX
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- Car: 1972 DATSUN 240Z W/ SR20DET
THE CARPET UPFRONT WEIGHTS 35LBS IN ITS ENTIRETY, EACH SEAT IS ABOUT 30-40 POUNDS, THEN YOU HAVE WHEELS THAT CAN BE LIGHTEND, DRIVESHAFT, FLYWHEEL, HEADLIGHT MOTORS, BODY PANELS CAN GO FIBER, GLASS CAN GO LAMEX (SP?), CV AXLES CAN GO ALUMINUM, THERE ARE TONS OF THINGS THAT CAN BE LIGHTEND HOW IN DEPTH YOU WANT TO GO IS THE QUESTION.
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droptopsilvia
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Dont waste your time with headers if you eventually want a turbo...just buy everything else, upgrade ignition, fuel, lsd,exhaust, and when you have all of the other stuff done order your turbo pieces and some lower c.p. pistons...
The point is plan out what you want first, then start buying parts in sections, like suspension parts, its much easier to do everything at once than take it apart 5000 times and put it back together.
The point is plan out what you want first, then start buying parts in sections, like suspension parts, its much easier to do everything at once than take it apart 5000 times and put it back together.