Major Problem Acceleration and Fuel Consumption Need Help ASAP

[DanielIser]

Ok, lets see where i should begin. First off for about 3 weeks now i have been able to smell raw gas after running the car a little hard. Im broke atm and did some searching this last weekend on the homemade boost controller and built a great working model that i was able to get dialed in to 12-14 PSI and not bad considering it cost 12 bucks to make. I was intent on cranking up the boost to try to even out the a/f mixture, but the stupid-smart computer compensated for the extra air by adding more fuel rather than just taking the air. The car was running good though. I even raced a V6 Eclipse GT, (was my first run with the xtra boost and wasnt sure what to expect) but with the xtra boost i burned the tires through 1st 2nd and 3rd and still beat the Eclipse by half a car length, and when i say burn the tires, i meant got the car partially sideways. But I decided that on tuesday i would try advancing the timing to burn off some of the xtra fuel. I set it to 20* BTDC, I also readjusted the tps to .50v, but i think the biggest factor in the problems to come was when i was wiring the electric fan i have had for a while to the ignition. I have been having to manually hook it up for a while now and that is annoying. I opened the battery side fuse box and looked for something that i knew came on only at ignition, and there it was the fuel pump fuse. I wired it in and low and behold the fan worked. But when i went to start the car again it stopped running after a minute or so and i didnt know what was up. Apparently i blew the Fuel Pump fuse and relay. I pulled the Fuel Pump out to check it and put it all back in before realizing relay was bad. so i bypassed the relay and rigged it to come on like it is supposed to. When i went for a test drive the car began bucking under 50% to WOT, and there was no power at all. I put the timing back to what it was and it is still doing it. The car idles fine, but when given gas in nuetral it sputters from 1500rpm to 2500rpm then will smooth out and rev to redline. When in gear it will go to 2 grand then sputter to 2500 and then smooth out but if i push it to the floor after that it boggs and sputters. In 3rd gear it took almost 1 mile to go from 2.5krpm to 4krpm. Also on wednesday I came out of the shop with some tools and noticed that gas had come out the gas door and was running down the side of the car. It came from the little pinhole under the gas cap. The car is sucking up the gas atm also, quarter tank went in about 20-25 miles or so without even getting over 4 grand. and when i filled it up today when i opened the gas cap, it didnt make its usuall pshhhh sound as it depressurized. Please help, ASAP, need the thrill of the turbo back before depression sets in...

[mynismo]

your timing is wayyyy off. set it like at http://www.store.yahoo.com/pha....html --- don't use a timing light, they don't work on our cars (i don't care what anyone says, they don't work on our cars...)

beating an eclipse gt by half a car at 14 psi is absolutely nothing to brag about. at 10 psi my last car was eating up new c5 vettes from a dead stop.

don't bypass a relay... bad things will happen.

my advice:1. set timing2. get rid of that ghetto rigged boost controller ...god only knows what that is doing3. put the fuel pump relay back4. what did you do to the tps? why the hell are you messing with that?5. buy a new fuel pump, there's a good chance it's bad if setting the timing doesn't fix the problem

[DanielIser]

Ill do the timing again tomorrow, but as for the Eclips, it is far from stock. No turbo or anything, but full exhaust, intake, and has had its ecu retuned for maximum power. not to mention that he got a perfect start, and i had the car sideways through 1st, 2nd and 3rd. But why would i all of a sudden have so much un burnt fuel? will timing cause me to dump a 1/4 tank in less than 30 miles? Also for some reason when i got the motor the TPS was loose so i had to adjust it to the right settings, and i checked it the other day and it was almost 1v closed rather than .5. The boost controller is actually the same as what you would buy off of SRSWAP, or Enjuku if you got the MBC. It even looks the same.

[mynismo]

"ecu retuned for maximum power"

hahahhaa... sorry to say, thats pretty damn close to stock. they aren't fast, i can beat them with my grocery getter. exhaust and intake do next to nothing... far from stock is a evo8 turbo, injectors and a built motor.

i've never heard of resetting the tps.

i think you don't know what you're doing.

[DanielIser]

A: you are wrong about the ecu tuning process which leads me to believe you dont know what you are talking about. I have seen people take bone stock cars to the dyno and to have them tuned and get HP gains in the 100s

B: try doing a search on tps retard. It is adjusted in the same manor that you adjust the CAS, by undoing two screws and twisting it. It is set by turning the key to the on position, taking a voltage meter and putting the positive into the middle wire of the tps clip and the black wire to a ground, at closed throttle you should have a voltage reading between .45 an .55, and at wot it should be well above 4v

[SpeedRacer1]

If the TPS reading is off by hundreths of a volt the car can run crappy. So just keep messing with it till you get it right. Fix your timing to the proper 15 degrees btdc.

The other way to bypass the TPS is to just get an auto ECU and disconnect the TPS. Run the ECU for codes also to see your not throwing anything.

[DanielIser]

I will do the ecu test today. My TPS is at .50 but bounces from .47 to .53 so it is in the .45-.55 range. Timing is already set to 15* btdc but I am going to do it the other way today by removing the valve cover and doing it like that. I also noticed today that after i put gas in it last night it ran a bit smoother. And when i tried to start it this morning it was like there was no fuel in the lines at all, and it took like a minute of cranking to get it to start and stay started, but once i got it started it was like there was no problem at all, for a while anyways. It was the best feeling in the world till it started sputtering again. But it only did it 2 or 3 times over about a 10 mile drive with plenty of start/stops to test gears. I ont want to think that its fixed when i know it cant be yet, so im gonna keep working till i get it smooth all the time.

[DanielIser]

I noticed today that, that when run cold or close to it it runs perfect. The warmer it gets the rougher the ride is. Any more ideas?