Maintenance fluids for G35 6 speed.

[richtell]

I'm happy to join your forum- this is my first post. I'm taking over maintenance of a 2004 G35 with 60K miles. My question is what aftermarket fluids ( manual transmission, diff, radiator, brake) work well in the G35, other than buying from the dealer? What are two jacking points, front and rear, to lift the car on four jackstands?Is the differential that comes with the six speed manual regular or limited slip?Thanks

[telcoman]

I'm happy to join your forum- this is my first post. I'm taking over maintenance of a 2004 G35 with 60K miles. My question is what aftermarket fluids ( manual transmission, diff, radiator, brake) work well in the G35, other than buying from the dealer? What are two jacking points, front and rear, to lift the car on four jackstands?Is the differential that comes with the six speed manual regular or limited slip?Thanks

richtell

Welcome to NICO

You can spot the jack points by looking under the car





There are a lot of opinions on everything here.

As far as fluids go my position on fluids is when the vehicle needs brakes, replace the brake fluid. When you need a clutch, replace the clutch fluid.As far as transmission and differential fluids go, I never change it unless there is a problem.

Never try to fix anything that isn't broke.

I change my oil and oil filter every 3k to 3.5k miles and have done it 24 times so far. I also change the air and cabin filters regularly. Other than that, in almost 80k miles, nada.

BTW, I just received a box of Honeybell oranges from Florida. First time eater. Delicious

Telcoman
Modified by telcoman at 12:52 PM 1/27/2009

[AZhitman]

Welcome home!

You'll get as many varied opinions on fluids as there are products, so do your research and think logically...

Coolant: I prefer the dealer stuff. Don't mix 50/50 in FL, I prefer a 25% coolant / 75% distilled water mix.

Oil: I run a synthetic blend (supercharged VQ seeing occasional track abuse).

Diff and Trans: Mobil 1 full synthetic.

Brake: I use ATE Blue, but any good quality fluid should be fine. Flush the entire system ever 2 years for best longevity.

You have a LSD in your car.

Again, welcome aboard!

[tollboothwilley]

I use Royal Purple in my Diff and Engine. I have an auto, so I use the NISSAN fluid for my transmission.

I like M1 as well for engine. RP is great in the differential.

[joe603]

Welcome to NICO!

I use Royal Purple lubricants for engine/6MT/rear diff. It's a really great product.

Check out our G-series FAQ (link in my sig) for modification ideas and how-to articles.

[Tampa G35 Sedan 6MT]

welcome to nico... 6mt Sedan here

DJ

[smockers83]

As far as transmission and differential fluids go, I never change it unless there is a problem.

Never try to fix anything that isn't broke.

I change my oil and oil filter every 3k to 3.5k miles and have done it 24 times so far. I also change the air and cabin filters regularly. Other than that, in almost 80k miles, nada.

You don't change the transmission or diff fluids because you don't "fix anything that isn't broke," yet you change your oil every 3k miles and filters regularly. So when you change those, are they broke, too?

Sorry, just had to point out a paradox.

[telcoman]

You don't change the transmission or diff fluids because you don't "fix anything that isn't broke," yet you change your oil every 3k miles and filters regularly. So when you change those, are they broke, too?

Sorry, just had to point out a paradox.

smockers83

No matter what type or how expensive an oil one may use, the fact remains that over time and mileage, water vapor, condensation, and other contaminates of an internal combustion engine collect in the crankcase every time the engine cools.At most dealerships mechanics can show you oil pans of failed engines with sludge a couple of inches thick for those that thought they could go 10, 15, or even 20k miles without changing oil because they used some expensive oil.SAE recommended oil is very cheap as are oil filters. Over many years I have put hundreds of thousands of miles on many vehicles by following my self imposed oil change schedule. I frequently am able to purchase oil at $.99 per qt or less so for less than $10.00 and a 1/2 hour of my time I may very well end up with 200k miles on my G.

Telcoman

[smockers83]

telco, I'm not arguing with that. I'm well aware of that. But also over time and mileage, fluids in in the transmission get old, contaminated, and what not. Fluids don't have an unlimited life, just like motor oil.

From my experience, every transmission I've been involved with that had high mileage has experienced problems that could have been prevented through regular maintenance.

[Jacko3]

Telcoman:

You are hilarious! Nice! What type of oranges---real ones or boobies???? Jacko's mind is warped.

[Jacko3]

For my engine oil, I use Royal Purple (RP)----excellent oil , but expensive. If you don't have the money to buy RP and you don't plan to abuse the car as often, then buy Mobil 1 full Synthetic--it also works great. Mobil EP 1 Full Synthetic is also excellent--slightly better than regular Mobil 1 Full Synthetic.

As far as I am concerned, original Nissan Manual Transmission fluid and Differential fluid from the dealership, works excellently. I change my differential fluid every year. My manual transmission fluid maybe every 2 years or even every year depending on how I feel or how much money I have on me.

[mrsmithGrider]

smockers83

No matter what type or how expensive an oil one may use, the fact remains that over time and mileage, water vapor, condensation, and other contaminates of an internal combustion engine collect in the crankcase every time the engine cools.At most dealerships mechanics can show you oil pans of failed engines with sludge a couple of inches thick for those that thought they could go 10, 15, or even 20k miles without changing oil because they used some expensive oil.SAE recommended oil is very cheap as are oil filters. Over many years I have put hundreds of thousands of miles on many vehicles by following my self imposed oil change schedule. I frequently am able to purchase oil at $.99 per qt or less so for less than $10.00 and a 1/2 hour of my time I may very well end up with 200k miles on my G.

Telcoman

I don't think he was speaking of intervals of oil change. I think he was just making a point that the tranmission as well as other oils need to be replaced. Sometimes I wonder why you drive a G, from your post I can see you driving a 92' Honda Accord....lol

[mrsmithGrider]

For my engine oil, I use Royal Purple (RP)----excellent oil , but expensive. If you don't have the money to buy RP and you don't plan to abuse the car as often, then buy Mobil 1 full Synthetic--it also works great. Mobil EP 1 Full Synthetic is also excellent--slightly better than regular Mobil 1 Full Synthetic.

As far as I am concerned, original Nissan Manual Transmission fluid and Differential fluid from the dealership, works excellently. I change my differential fluid every year. My manual transmission fluid maybe every 2 years or even every year depending on how I feel or how much money I have on me.

Jacko---

When you change your transmission fluid do drain and fill(4 quarts) or do a complete flush and fill( empty the entire transmission and refill 12 quarts)?

[Jacko3]

Maybe flushing is a good idea, but I hav not yet come to an acceptance of flushing the transmission. I always feel like the flushing will remove particles keeping the transmission together. And then suddely, all kinds of leaks can show up. I prefer draining the transmsioon on a more routin basis than flushing. It has worked well on little nissan and I see no reason why it won't work on the G. Little nissan is actually my mule for the G.

[toddnos]

Maybe flushing is a good idea, but I hav not yet come to an acceptance of flushing the transmission. I always feel like the flushing will remove particles keeping the transmission together. And then suddely, all kinds of leaks can show up. I prefer draining the transmsioon on a more routin basis than flushing. It has worked well on little nissan and I see no reason why it won't work on the G. Little nissan is actually my mule for the G.

not that the particles are "keeping" the transmission together, but the particles are lodged in various nooks and crannies of the trans, and flushing them can place them into the moving portions of the trans causing failure.

so, in short i agree. flushing is no good, unless its been done for the life of the car, not just at 80000 miles only.

[joe603]

Never try to fix anything that isn't broke.

I change my oil and oil filter every 3k to 3.5k miles and have done it 24 times so far. I also change the air and cabin filters regularly. Other than that, in almost 80k miles, nada.

Modified by telcoman at 12:52 PM 1/27/2009

telco, As much as we disagree...I totally agree with you! If it ain't broke, don't fix it! So many times I've tried to "improve" my car by replacing the fluid and it comes back to bite me.

For example:

I recently had the dealership change out my 6MT trans fluid during a visit to fix some warranty issues. Well, wouldn't you know, the trans started to make an annoying low pitched hum/whistle a week after I got the car back. So I returned it to the dealer and they said that the trans needed to be replaced! Good thing I have a warranty! I thought...why not replace the clutch while the do the trans replacement...it will save me $700 in labor because the trans is already off the engine.

I decided to get aftermarket performance parts put on. Now the car shifts great, and the clutch grips 10x better than OEM...but it chatters like crazy! Not sure if it was worth it...

So I spent $775 on parts and $310 on labor on a job that didn't need to be done. In fact, they said that the OEM flywheel and clutch were still good

[richtell]

To all: thanks for your varied comments. I'm familiar with BMW cars- i have two E36 m3s and use Redline fluids for the engine oil, transmission and diff, and BMW OEM radiator fluid for the plastic radiators in BMWs.I think I will get Infinti transmission and diff oil and regular aftermarket radiator fluid and regular aftermarket 10-30 synthetic oil for the engine. At 60K I should replace the belts, and I hear there is a carbon microfilter for the car.Any thoughts?Thanks

[telcoman]

telco, As much as we disagree...I totally agree with you! If it ain't broke, don't fix it! So many times I've tried to "improve" my car by replacing the fluid and it comes back to bite me.

For example:

I recently had the dealership change out my 6MT trans fluid during a visit to fix some warranty issues. Well, wouldn't you know, the trans started to make an annoying low pitched hum/whistle a week after I got the car back. So I returned it to the dealer and they said that the trans needed to be replaced! Good thing I have a warranty! I thought...why not replace the clutch while the do the trans replacement...it will save me $700 in labor because the trans is already off the engine.

I decided to get aftermarket performance parts put on. Now the car shifts great, and the clutch grips 10x better than OEM...but it chatters like crazy! Not sure if it was worth it...

So I spent $775 on parts and $310 on labor on a job that didn't need to be done. In fact, they said that the OEM flywheel and clutch were still good

Hey Joe

I speak from over 40 years of driving with a long list of vehicles. Most of us that have been driving for a while know that s#it happens.I just try to advise some of the twenty somethings not to perhaps waste their money.I cannot quite understand why manual transmission and differential fluid needs changing unless there is some sort of a problem?

An automatic perhaps but not a manual!

My 1980 VW Diesel died with an oil pump failure at 246k miles and still had the original transmission fluid in it. That was a 4 speed manual as 5 speeds were in very short supply during gas lines and even odd fuel purchase days back then.

Telcoman