maintenance cost question

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71L48SS
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Car: 2006 G35X Sedan

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Hello,

I'm here to seek your opinion on servicing my gals G35X, if you dont mind. I am not a mechanic by any means, but well above your average shade tree mechanic, just a little hesitant about messing with her car. Dealer said she needs the following work, but is it worth paying the cost associated with it???? I would really appreciate your opinions. I posted on the infinity forum, but that site looks like it's dead. Thanks again! Brian

2006 G35X Sedan

rear pads- 269.00 really???engine belts- 165.00trans fluid- 199.00pwr steering fluid- 99.00compartment air filter- 95.00


joe603
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welcome to NICO!

If you're comfortable with turning a few wrenches, I'm sure you could do all of that work. Belts and fluid are easy. The in-cabin filter is kindof a pain (I paid because I didn't want to mess with pulling panels).

The brakes...that does seem pricey...any decent brake shop can do it if you want to save some $$....or do them yourself. Again, I'd have someone do mine as I don't want to mess with it.

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kmckis1029
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brakes... most reputable brake shop should be able to handle it for half that cost... unless you need new rotors...

do the power steering fluid your self for a couple bucks for fluid

i would let the dealer to the transmission fluid... ask for matic S

air filter is a pain to get to... but not $95 worth of pain... its 6 screws and two side panels and a $10-15 part... so you paying like 80 bucks in labor lol

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telcoman
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71L48SS wrote:Hello,

I'm here to seek your opinion on servicing my gals G35X, if you dont mind. I am not a mechanic by any means, but well above your average shade tree mechanic, just a little hesitant about messing with her car. Dealer said she needs the following work, but is it worth paying the cost associated with it???? I would really appreciate your opinions. I posted on the infinity forum, but that site looks like it's dead. Thanks again! Brian

2006 G35X Sedan

rear pads- 269.00 really???engine belts- 165.00trans fluid- 199.00pwr steering fluid- 99.00compartment air filter- 95.00
Welcome to NICO

Here is my $.02 on using the dealer for maintenance.

I change my own oil, air and cabin filter and rotate my tires.

Here is a link on changing the cabin filter.

http://forums.g35club.org/zero...age=1

I do it once a year and get it from Infiniti parts. I had a problem once using a purolater filter and had to replace it.

You don't mention how many miles are on your car but I still have my original transmission, power steering and differential fluids.The coolent was flushed at 106.7k miles when I had the dealer replace the plugs and belts. I had the dealer do 4 wheel brakes at 85k miles that included turning the rotors. They did a excellent job and I've been very happy with the dealer. Cost more yes but I've gotten #ucked a few times over the years by using independant shops that use cheap parts and often do shoddy work.

Telcoman


71L48SS
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Joined: Wed Mar 10, 2010 10:37 am
Car: 2006 G35X Sedan

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Guys, THANKS A TON for the replies, and MOD thanks for changing the title. I think she has 85k-100k on the car already, she drives alot for work so I told them to do the transmission fluid. I always hated doing this on my own cars anyway. I'll knock out the rest over the weekend.

Should I have her get the pads from the dealer, or can I go with NAPA or equivalent? Don't know why i am weird about this car, not like it's a Maserati

pits200
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If you are around 100K, then wait till they tell you about the spark plug change.. I just did it on my wifes 04x and I paid about $60 for plugs and did the work myself.

But I can't even imagine how much the dealer would charge for this job.

As for tackling the jobs you mentioned, if I were you, Id set some time aside and do them all. Look at it this way, its a learning experience that you can carry over to other cars for the rest of your life.

Difficulty levels

Brakes - 3/10

Belts - 6/10 (I found it hard to get the right tension on the belt, Im use to the spring loaded pulleys)

Trans Fluid - 2/10

Power Steering 1/10

Compartment Air Filter - 4/10 (The first time is a learning experience and its kind of a tight space. After the first change it becomes a 2/10.

Good luck

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zozoka1212
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You can even find the Cabin air filter replacement DIY on youtube. Not hard just takes a little time at first. You can buy most of the parts at local. The brake pads seems to be loyt higher than I would pay for .

You probably can find video on youtube how to replace the pads. It is simple.

Here is a link how much some of the aftermarket pads are.

http://www.r1concepts.com/INFI...e.htm


71L48SS
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Car: 2006 G35X Sedan

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Thanks for the link. I can not beleive they are charging 270.00 for rear brakes, when the pads only cost a little more than your average pad. Even if I have the rotors turned, it would only be about a third of their cost. Crooks....

pwlorraine
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You want somebody working on your car who is paying attention. When I was a teenager (long time back) the classic qwik-oil-change place problem was a tech using vice-grips to remove your oil drain plug and rounding the corners, or cross-threading it putting it back in and having your oil drain out. I've not heard those horror stories as much recently.

I'm planning on using the dealer basically once a year for maintenance - one out of 3 or four times - with oil changes done by the local place at other times. On my previous Audi, I had the dealer do everything as preventative care is a big part of owning an Audi - knowing what's wearing or coming up, spotting the tell-tale leak around the second water pump that cools the turbo after the car shuts off - all the weird stuff that a non-expert won't know.

And I've got a vag-com tool (VW auto group) from my Audi that can also read the OBD2 diagnostic codes - I'll plug in my g37 periodically to look for transient codes. On Audi's (and our BMWs for that matter) these were early indicators of developing problems.

I'm a big believer of doing some work on your car so that at least you understand it better - saving money is a plus too. Seeing how things are put together really helps you appreciate whether or not you will buy another one in the future.

Peter

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telcoman
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pwlorraine wrote:You want somebody working on your car who is paying attention. When I was a teenager (long time back) the classic qwik-oil-change place problem was a tech using vice-grips to remove your oil drain plug and rounding the corners, or cross-threading it putting it back in and having your oil drain out. I've not heard those horror stories as much recently.

I'm planning on using the dealer basically once a year for maintenance - one out of 3 or four times - with oil changes done by the local place at other times. On my previous Audi, I had the dealer do everything as preventative care is a big part of owning an Audi - knowing what's wearing or coming up, spotting the tell-tale leak around the second water pump that cools the turbo after the car shuts off - all the weird stuff that a non-expert won't know.

And I've got a vag-com tool (VW auto group) from my Audi that can also read the OBD2 diagnostic codes - I'll plug in my g37 periodically to look for transient codes. On Audi's (and our BMWs for that matter) these were early indicators of developing problems.

I'm a big believer of doing some work on your car so that at least you understand it better - saving money is a plus too. Seeing how things are put together really helps you appreciate whether or not you will buy another one in the future.

Peter
Beware of Jiffy Lube

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MsLKNdebB6Q

Telcoman

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SVTCOBRA
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If you decide to take it to a dealer for some of the work, check the prices at your local NISSAN dealer. They are normally cheaper. They can do most everything except Infiniti warrany work.

I actually got a Nissan extended warranty on my 04 Coupe and my local Nissan dealer has been great for that work!!

Changed the plugs on our 05 sedan and it was pretty ez. Just loosen the harness and your good!

71L48SS
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Car: 2006 G35X Sedan

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Funny you mention Jiffylube. Just last week a co-worker listened as her engine seized after a short trip through a Valvoline chain store for oil change. They just agreed to pay for the engine work (4k).

The dealer is the only place we go if I don't do the work. You just have to wonder some times, how much is your own time worth, ya know? Been working on my own cars for 20 years now, and you get tired of it. Or, it might be the gutted Chvelle in the garage thats making me tired.

I must say though, the dealer charges almost the same as those fastfood oil change places, but they wash/detail her car and give her a rental for the day. Ahhh...... that explains the $270.00 they charge for rear brakes
Modified by 71L48SS at 4:57 PM 3/11/2010

71L48SS
Posts: 6
Joined: Wed Mar 10, 2010 10:37 am
Car: 2006 G35X Sedan

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SVTCOBRA wrote:If you decide to take it to a dealer for some of the work, check the prices at your local NISSAN dealer. They are normally cheaper. They can do most everything except Infiniti warrany work.

I actually got a Nissan extended warranty on my 04 Coupe and my local Nissan dealer has been great for that work!!

Changed the plugs on our 05 sedan and it was pretty ez. Just loosen the harness and your good!
I'll check on the Nissan idea, thanks!

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telcoman
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71L48SS wrote:Thanks for the link. I can not beleive they are charging 270.00 for rear brakes, when the pads only cost a little more than your average pad. Even if I have the rotors turned, it would only be about a third of their cost. Crooks....
Think of it this way

You are the owner of a $35k + car

Of course you can find cheaper pads and rotors than what the dealer is charging but what if the performance of the cheaper pads results in an accident because of reduced stopping results.?The dealer charged me $530 for the 4 wheel brake job that included turning the rotors which they recomend. I had the use of the loaner and they washed and vacuumed my G. I was very satisfied with the dealer service.

I got 85k miles on my original pads and expect to get about the same on this set.I don't trust independant shops to work on my car. I'd rather pay a little more to the dealer then to have the aggrevation, additional time and cost of doing it twice.

Telcoman

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SVTCOBRA
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telcoman wrote:
The dealer charged me $530 for the 4 wheel brake job that included turning the rotors which they recomend.

Telcoman
Next time, just drive down here. I'll do your brakes for $530 and feed you some home cooked BBQ!!

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telcoman
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SVTCOBRA wrote:
Next time, just drive down here. I'll do your brakes for $530 and feed you some home cooked BBQ!!
LOL

Does it also include a car wash?


71L48SS
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Car: 2006 G35X Sedan

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telcoman wrote:
Think of it this way

You are the owner of a $35k + car

Of course you can find cheaper pads and rotors than what the dealer is charging but what if the performance of the cheaper pads results in an accident because of reduced stopping results.?The dealer charged me $530 for the 4 wheel brake job that included turning the rotors which they recomend. I had the use of the loaner and they washed and vacuumed my G. I was very satisfied with the dealer service.

I got 85k miles on my original pads and expect to get about the same on this set.I don't trust independant shops to work on my car. I'd rather pay a little more to the dealer then to have the aggrevation, additional time and cost of doing it twice.

Telcoman
Point well taken Telcoman, beleive me. The real issue, more than anything, is that we know they (dealers/owners) are making a killing on stuff like this. Taking on the project ourselves, saving the money and not giving them the satisfaction of knowing they just "got" another unknowing service victim..........is what drives me to tackle such things. Your also right about independant shops (for the most part) I continue to drive past them unles HIGHLY recommended by someone that also knows what they are talking about.

I bet I will wish I had the dealer do the belts by the time I get the 2nd one off. There is not much room in the front of these lil cars.

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telcoman
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71L48SS wrote:
Point well taken Telcoman, beleive me. The real issue, more than anything, is that we know they (dealers/owners) are making a killing on stuff like this. Taking on the project ourselves, saving the money and not giving them the satisfaction of knowing they just "got" another unknowing service victim..........is what drives me to tackle such things. Your also right about independant shops (for the most part) I continue to drive past them unles HIGHLY recommended by someone that also knows what they are talking about.

I bet I will wish I had the dealer do the belts by the time I get the 2nd one off. There is not much room in the front of these lil cars.
Someone at work told me how easy it was to replace brake pads. He was willing to help me do it. I thought about it but decided #1 it would take up part of my weekend, #2 I would at least have treat him & his wife to dinner for his help, and #3 what if something went wrong.......etc

Out of 34 oil changes that my G has had since purchase on 12/31/05 I have done 32 of them and the dealer has done two. The money I save in doing oil & oil filter changes, air and cabin filter changes and tire rotations allows me to spend the $$$ for a dealer brake job.Paying a Infiniti trained technician $100+ an hour for complex work is acceptable to me. Paying that kind of money for an oil change is not.The technicians that do this work every day know all the little tricks for making the job easier. I priced the brake pads on everythingG35 and the parts, brake fluid are close to $100. I would also need a couple of 1/2 drive mm sockets to remove the calipers, plus something to compress the piston so when I added it all up + time and aggrevation and not having the use of a lift I decided to let the dealer do it and drive a new G loaner for the day.

Telcoman


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SVTCOBRA
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Telcoman, I really haven't thought about all of the money that I've saved doing my own oil changes for the past 30+ years!!! I think I deserve some new tools!!!!

Brake jobs are usually pretty ez, and you only need a BIG c lamp to compress the piston using the old pad to press against.

Personally, I don't turn the rotors unless they really need it.

It is good to also have a gauge to check the thickness to ensure they are still within spec.

pits200
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telcoman wrote:
Think of it this way

You are the owner of a $35k + car

Of course you can find cheaper pads and rotors than what the dealer is charging but what if the performance of the cheaper pads results in an accident because of reduced stopping results.?The dealer charged me $530 for the 4 wheel brake job that included turning the rotors which they recomend. I had the use of the loaner and they washed and vacuumed my G. I was very satisfied with the dealer service.

I got 85k miles on my original pads and expect to get about the same on this set.I don't trust independant shops to work on my car. I'd rather pay a little more to the dealer then to have the aggrevation, additional time and cost of doing it twice.

Telcoman
When I do a job myself, I look at it this way. You aren't paying labor so you can spend more money on better parts than the oem ones the dealer would use. Like just because you take it to Infiniti doesn't mean the Nissan pads they use are of the highest quality.

Also, if I recommend any job being taken to the dealership to do, it's an oil change. The profit to time ratio is MUCH higher on brake pads than it is on an oil change.

For example, the $530 you spent, if you did it yourself, it would probably have cost $150 to complete the job. Thats a profit of $380 for about an hour of work and you can rotate your tires at the same time.

Where as doing a synthetic oil change at home costs about $50 and the dealer would charge you about $100. That is only a profit of $50 for almost the same amount of work.

So doing the brake jobs at home may actually be the better overall job to do for the average grease monkey.

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telcoman
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pits200 wrote:
When I do a job myself, I look at it this way. You aren't paying labor so you can spend more money on better parts than the oem ones the dealer would use. Like just because you take it to Infiniti doesn't mean the Nissan pads they use are of the highest quality.

Also, if I recommend any job being taken to the dealership to do, it's an oil change. The profit to time ratio is MUCH higher on brake pads than it is on an oil change.

For example, the $530 you spent, if you did it yourself, it would probably have cost $150 to complete the job. Thats a profit of $380 for about an hour of work and you can rotate your tires at the same time.

Where as doing a synthetic oil change at home costs about $50 and the dealer would charge you about $100. That is only a profit of $50 for almost the same amount of work.

So doing the brake jobs at home may actually be the better overall job to do for the average grease monkey.
You've made some good points and generally doing a job yourself results in a better quality job, however changing pads without turning the rotors can possibly result in having to do the job twice if there is vibration or pulling to one side etc. The dealer strongly recommended turning the rotors at the first brake pad replacement because you can see tiny imperfections on the rotors after 85k miles of use. If I still own this vehicle when these pads are worn I'll have to replace the rotors. Also if I was 20 years younger I might be more inclinded to do it myself and save the $$$. I've been told you can't the the $$$ with you when you're gone.

As far a pure profit for the dealer I'm not so sure your figure is accurate?Running a business incurs many costs in personnel, equipment, training etc. Your brakes have your life in your hands and I just feel better having someone do it that does it frequently. I've heard of people having punctured colons by using a doctor that does only a few colonoscopies. The one I used does over 20 a day in a hospital three days a week. Experience does count

Telcoman

pits200
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telcoman wrote:
You've made some good points and generally doing a job yourself results in a better quality job, however changing pads without turning the rotors can possibly result in having to do the job twice if there is vibration or pulling to one side etc. The dealer strongly recommended turning the rotors at the first brake pad replacement because you can see tiny imperfections on the rotors after 85k miles of use. If I still own this vehicle when these pads are worn I'll have to replace the rotors. Also if I was 20 years younger I might be more inclinded to do it myself and save the $$$. I've been told you can't the the $$$ with you when you're gone.

As far a pure profit for the dealer I'm not so sure your figure is accurate?Running a business incurs many costs in personnel, equipment, training etc. Your brakes have your life in your hands and I just feel better having someone do it that does it frequently. I've heard of people having punctured colons by using a doctor that does only a few colonoscopies. The one I used does over 20 a day in a hospital three days a week. Experience does count

Telcoman


Trust me, experience doesn't count for everything. I won't even get into my ordeal with my vehicle. I have a 2008 TL and a 2001 CL and my timing belt broke on my CL at 199,930 miles. Now I had the belt and water pump replaced at 155k miles last year by a local very reputable shop. They overtourqued the tbelt tensioner bolt so tight that it sheered off.

Anyways this happened 400 miles from home and I had to have it towed to an acura dealership where I spent $3500 to redo my engine. Sure enough the job was poorly done and is verified by many local Acura dealerships.

So 2 times on my CL have I had outside shops work on my car ever. (Besides tire changes and alignments and those kinda things) And both times now, the job has been done incorrectly. I am in the process of taking the first shop to court for the overtightened bolt with led to the tensioner failure and engine damage.

I am also meeting with the owner of the Acura dealership next week where my engine was improperly done.

Trust me, many of these techs are use to cookie cutter jobs. If it is anything outside of the norm, they are lost in the dark without a flashlight.

All im saying is, don't feel guaranteed that just cause you pay top dollar that the job is being done properly.

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telcoman
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pits200 wrote:

Trust me, experience doesn't count for everything. I won't even get into my ordeal with my vehicle. I have a 2008 TL and a 2001 CL and my timing belt broke on my CL at 199,930 miles. Now I had the belt and water pump replaced at 155k miles last year by a local very reputable shop. They overtourqued the tbelt tensioner bolt so tight that it sheered off.

Anyways this happened 400 miles from home and I had to have it towed to an acura dealership where I spent $3500 to redo my engine. Sure enough the job was poorly done and is verified by many local Acura dealerships.

So 2 times on my CL have I had outside shops work on my car ever. (Besides tire changes and alignments and those kinda things) And both times now, the job has been done incorrectly. I am in the process of taking the first shop to court for the overtightened bolt with led to the tensioner failure and engine damage.

I am also meeting with the owner of the Acura dealership next week where my engine was improperly done.

Trust me, many of these techs are use to cookie cutter jobs. If it is anything outside of the norm, they are lost in the dark without a flashlight.

All im saying is, don't feel guaranteed that just cause you pay top dollar that the job is being done properly.
I had a similar experience with my 88 Maza 929. I took it to an independent shop for engine noise at close to 200k miles. It needed timing belt tensioners and a timing belt. I also replaced the water pump, belts and hoses so the whole job was $700+.After getting the car back after two days it was barely running and I took it back. It had jumped time and they reset it. Two days later the same thing happened. They then refused to look at it. Fortunately I had paid by credit card and complained to the credit card company. They issued a charge back for poor workmanship so I got my money back. I took it to the local Mazda dealer. They showed me that the independent shop used the wrong timing belt and didn't replace all of the tensioners that they charged me for. The mechanic at the Mazda dealer that was working on the car had a heart attack and died. It took over a month for me to get the car back.

This is why I no longer trust independent shops. If the dealer messes up they'll fix it.

Telcoman


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