Is a brand new clutch. Anyway I looked at a tool that you plug in the balancer and lets you hold it while you put the indicated torque to the bolt.

John16 wrote: ↑

Tue Aug 30, 2022 7:28 pm

Anyway I looked at a tool that you plug in the balancer and lets you hold it while you put the indicated torque to the bolt.

That works fine if you want to buy a tool.

John16 wrote: ↑

Tue Aug 30, 2022 7:28 pm

Is a brand new clutch.

Brand new or not, if it slips with 100 lbs/ft from a wrench, it will slip with 100 lbs/ft from the engine. Not good.

The mechanism that the s13 has to start the car by pressing the clutch is bypassed. Meaning that the clutch is not necessary to be pressed to make the engine spin at start. Or it could be that the Flywheel is missing that "woodward" key and is spinning. Im gonna use the belt trick tomorrow and see how it goes.

So the question is why everyone on youtube or anyone adjusting the crankshaft bolt and torque it to specs uses a crankshaft pulley holder?

John16 wrote: ↑

Fri Sep 02, 2022 8:55 pm

So the question is why everyone on youtube or anyone adjusting the crankshaft bolt and torque it to specs uses a crankshaft pulley holder? Or it could be the cheap clutch that i got there

Well just an update on my crankshaft main seal install. After getting the woodward and the seal install and then get the pulley torque to 110 and after testing it, unfortunately im still getting a leak. Is time to get the car to the shop and try to save this car. I might have install it wrong. I really will like to know if there a possibility that my leak is coming from another spot? Anyway any advise as always is appreciated. Thanks

The problem with leaks in the crank pulley area is that the pulley slings it everyplace. The only good way I know to zero in is to scrub the area, add dye, and watch it like a hawk as it warms up. BUT (sadly), if it didn't leak before the whole bolt issue, chances are very great that it's a problem with the repair.