mafs problem/question

[ca18coupe]

well just got my car running, the car will idle, jumping between like 500-700

it will only rev to 2000 and bounce off 2100 like a rev limiter and it only will

rev when the throttle is eased on if the throttle is simply pushed all the way

in the motor starves itself and stalls, I've done my research and it's seems

people have this or a similar problem after first start up I feel the problem is

either mass air flow sensor ( this is what I truly believe it is mainly because

it runs pretty much exactly the same with the mafs plugged in or not ),

throttle angle sensor( don;t really think this is it because the ecu seems to

cut the fuel when the throttle is pushed past a certain spot ) or a

vacuum/boost leak( couldn't find one but will keep looking ). I have read

when other people have had similar problems people also told them fuel

pressure regulator but i'm not to sure about that. Well now that I've

dragged this out my question is would the mass air flow sensor off a ca18et

or a ca18de will be a plug in swap or am i going to have to track down an

oem ca18det mafs

P.S. double spaced for you ca18detgabby

[rico05]

If it runs the same with the MAF unplugged or not and it will not rev past 2K RPM, it is a MAF. Also, have you checked for codes? If you Search, you can find out how to wire in a KA24E MAF, but it is not an exact swap. It will run, but it will lean out a little in the top end. Your other option is finding a CA MAF or wiring in a N60 or up and chipping for it.

[ca18coupe]

I know the ka24e mafs works but read the article about the differences and would like to avoid using the ka

mafs until it's my only option ( running an atmospheric bov so there would be some crazy air fuel ratio's ), I

have a few n60 and n62 mafs sitting around ( will trade for ca18det mafs ) but don't wish to ship off my ecu

or spend $500 dollars to get the supporting tune, at least not yet I wish to drive the ca in stock form for

around 4 months before any tuning happens. I have seen people asking to purchase a ca18et or ca18det

mafs on other ca forums that I've ran into, which leads me to believe that might work please someone

must know out there

[rico05]

Get Live Edit and do the tune yourself

http://texasnissans.com/tx/for...=2675

[NISMOlvr]

If it runs the same with the MAF unplugged or not and it will not rev past 2K RPM, it is a MAF. Also, have you checked for codes? If you Search, you can find out how to wire in a KA24E MAF, but it is not an exact swap. It will run, but it will lean out a little in the top end. Your other option is finding a CA MAF or wiring in a N60 or up and chipping for it.

this is my first post ,and I dont mean to jack this thread.I too seem to have the same problems described .I just got my first ca18det running ,its stock exept for ssautocrome fmic cheapts know i I and im using k24e maf .it will only idle when I dissconnect the MAF. It will not rev past 2000 rpm,I know this is a clear indication that its a bad MAF.I have an n60 maf ,will this work without chipping ecu. I just want to be sure. I also pulled codes and got code 34 knock sensor,will this code cause the same problematic symptoms?i checked for continuity sensor to engine ground and it failed,I am going to replace knock sensor tomorrow.I have an sr20det in my other car. I know they are completely different motors so im still learning about the ca ,this last and final question do I need to install wallbro 255 fuel pump with FPR, is this engine safe with stock 240 fuel pump? I know i rambled on, any help will be appreciated.

[NISMOlvr]

first of all I would like to thank everyone who responded, (no one ).I figured it out for my self.I rewired knock sensor.checked all the hoses and found that exhaust side valve cover hose was not connected to the maf hose.also the Maf was too close to the turbo inlet ,it was causing bad readings to ecu .thats what happens when you get a motor with missing components,I ended up wasting time ,I learned my lesson..checked codes now i get code 55 wich is cool. I was up till almost 12:00 am searching in the forums .I am proud of the fact I was able to fixt it .I bought the engine for 400 dollars from a friend. he got discouraged. Only prob was he had a missing ignitor and injector resistor pack with cut harness and missing connectors.The list goes on and on.I got all my info here to begin fixing the harness .I bought all the missing parts after plenty of searching, I learned that I needed a q45 ignitor and DSM resistor pack, I rewired everything myself. I did not smoke test anything. I have the FSM .The wiring is almost the same as doing an SR20 exept for knock sensor wiring.Thanks to all the moderators who keep this informative forum alive.And for the people who did not respond ,"thanks" you did me a favor .