MAF wiring (r32)

Discuss the RB20, RB25 and RB26 series engines.
OKCA18DET
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can somebody circle where the wires should be on the harness? i think they have been cut.....


gawdzilla
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that pic is too close to the ECU plug. from the pic, about half of that remains inside the cabin. the firewall is about where the wires are frayed. mafs will be further down. your harness looks kind of hurt. is that all there is??

OKCA18DET
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no everythin past that is connected 2 the motor

OKCA18DET
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and how important are these sensors?

Yellow4g63
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OKCA18DET wrote:and how important are these sensors?
One is for your computer the other for your dash. The big one is very important and so is the little one.

Yellow4g63
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OKCA18DET wrote:no everythin past that is connected 2 the motor
You need to go further down. The maf plug won't be that close to the ECU.

OKCA18DET
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do you have a pic of where it comes off the harness?

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Nameless EJ6
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OKCA18DET wrote:no everythin past that is connected 2 the motor
Just like the MAF.. so look closer. Dur. :P

Try looking at a pic of a MAF if you don't have one. Look closely at the connector, walk over to your motor, inspect, and you'll probably find it. If not, it's probably cut off and you'll be stuck looking for nothing except a few cut off wires.

Are you that helpless? Sometimes I wonder how people think they can do a swap like this without knowing what they're dealing with. Hopefully you have a FSM...

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Nameless EJ6
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I just realized that may have sounded rude. So, sorry. You'll find something though!

OKCA18DET
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this might help....

EDIT::this is not my harness found the pic on ebay

OKCA18DET
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well to me i think im right i think it has been cut off

OKCA18DET
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Also , i was told on those coolant sensors that are broke and worthless, i can use KA ones? anyone confirm that?

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JonPowell
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Worthless...HAHAHA. Whoever told you that needs to choke on something thick & viscous before giving you infot that will A)stop your motor from running correctly and B)Fail to give you vital info that will stop you from damaging your engine horrifically. I suggest you take NO FURTHER advise from them.

The 2 wire(yellow) temp sensor feeds the coolant temp to the ECU. This is ESSENTIAL to making the engine run. Without knowledge of the engine temp the fuel maps will be all off & probably WAY lean on start up. If you remember the old carbeurated engines, the carb usually had a choke to close off the barrel of the carbeurator allowing less air in(more fuel). The coolant temp is one of the few sensors that the engine relies on to set the IAC and FICD in the correct positions on cold start. It also tells the ECU when the motor is warming up and that its alright to start leaning the mixture out.

The one wire sensor feeds the coolant temp signal to the cluster...that isnt necessary, unless you are the type who cares to know if your engine is overheating...

The one wire sensor IS interchangable with the KA IF and ONLY IF you are using the KA gauge cluster.

The 2 wire(yellow) is not interchangable with the KA.

Yellow4g63
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It's kinda small but that looks like the maf plug.

OKCA18DET
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Yellow4g63 wrote:

It's kinda small but that looks like the maf plug.
yea those wires are totally gone off my harness, but i talked to the guy who i got the motor from and from the sounds of it will send me a new harness and the correct ecu when he gets back from japan

EDIT::http://www.autopartsauthority.....htmlthis looks like it should work for the water temp going to the ECU
Modified by OKCA18DET at 5:20 PM 6/25/2005

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JonPowell
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As long as the signal is the same, it should be fine.

OKCA18DET
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JonPowell wrote:As long as the signal is the same, it should be fine.
how would it be different? its a temp sensor shouldn't it measure temp?

wawazat8402
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different temp sensors use different voltages to signify different temps.

OKCA18DET
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so..how can i determine what voltages it has?

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Carl H
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nissan has 2 ect sensors one for the ka style plug and one for the one you have in the picture, they both read the same so there is no problem using one inplace of another just diffrent plugs.my ect sensor went out and i used one from a z32 while other ppl have to use one from a ka, just depends on which 'series' rb20 you have.

*edit* the car will run with no ect but it will be in coldstart constantly have severly retarded timing and not rev past 4k (if you are lucky).

OKCA18DET
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Carl H wrote:nissan has 2 ect sensors one for the ka style plug and one for the one you have in the picture, they both read the same so there is no problem using one inplace of another just diffrent plugs.my ect sensor went out and i used one from a z32 while other ppl have to use one from a ka, just depends on which 'series' rb20 you have.

*edit* the car will run with no ect but it will be in coldstart constantly have severly retarded timing and not rev past 4k (if you are lucky).
im more worried bout the YELLOW sensor that feeds info to my ecu is this what you replaced on your RB?what series do u have?

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Carl H
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i have a 's2' engine (no rb20 on the timing cover).my ect sensor was yellow but its now blue as nissan changed the plug colours, but no worries it runs fine.and a word from the wise, get that sensor from the dealer, pay the extra 5$ for it as parts store ones suck my friend had to replace his and his died in a year (they are about 20$ from the dealer).

OKCA18DET
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yea i have an s2 alsosweet ill pick that up asap, and does it matter if its from a TT z31 or an N/A z32?

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JonPowell
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Carl H wrote:*edit* the car will run with no ect but it will be in coldstart constantly have severly retarded timing and not rev past 4k (if you are lucky).
Be very careful giving advice like this. With no engine temp reference the ECU will pork fuel to save the motor. This can on cold starts actually fill the cylinders with fuel. Gone unchecked the fuel will run past the rings into the oilpan lower the viscosity of the oil to oh...about beer consistency and since beer isnt used to lubricate a motor, the oil/fuel misture wont do any good either.

The fuel will eat at the front & rear main seals.The oil/fuel mixture will DESTROY bearings and cylinder walls and make your motor an expensive and heavy paperweight.

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Carl H
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well i said it would run i didnt say he should drive on it now.........i know when mine went bad i promply parked it and drove to nissan and got a new sensor.

OKCA18DET
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im also in the market for an R32 crossmember if anyone has one laying around in good condition


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