MAF problems.. CH187 might know about this car (syphrus' old car)

[lostmenoggin]

i have a CA MAF and a KA24E MAF. when the ca maf is hooked up it wont stay idling and eventually sputters out, but it will rev up (a little rough when it revs though). when i hook up the ka maf it will idle beautifully but wont rev up for ****. the ecu is throwing me code 12 when either of them are hooked up and i'm unhooking the battery when i switch em out to reset the ecu. are both mafs bad, or may my problem lie elsewhere? i have another maf coming on tuesday (thanks driftin8ez).

[boost_boy]

Try the new AFM and if that doesn't work, the circuitry for the AFM in the ecu could be damged because of possible installation.

Dee

[driftin8ez]

check if your ecu has a modified eprom in it. It may be chipped for a z32 afm or something and your car will never run with those other two. So i would say pop in a new ecu that you know works on the stock afm, then check your wiring, than buy a third afm.

[lostmenoggin]

good call..

[lostmenoggin]

switched ecu's from a 66 to a 78 and it barely runs at all. it starts up and dies again and the only code i get is 11 for the CAS.

[Buddyworm]

It sounds to me like the CA MAF is busted and the KA MAF is good but your CAS isn't working properly. I think this because both MAFs should work and if it were tuned for something bigger neither would work very well at all, especially if it were tuned for something as big as a Z32 unit.

Stick with the 66 ECU and leave the MAF unplugged and start the car, you should be able to rev the engine up to 2500rpm where it should bounce off that point, much like it's hitting a rev limiter (which it is ), if it doesn't rev up nicely the CAS may very well be your culprit. Also swap the CAS for one you know works (making sure it's aligned properly) and try that as well.

[lostmenoggin]

ok, put the 66 back in and i'm back to where i was. code 12 and code 34. cant get the knock sensor hooked up because i dont have a plug for it. i'm about to break off the plastic and solder the mother-effin wire right to the pin.

i have the ka maf hooked up. when i ground the black wire to the body it will rev up nicely but wont stay idling. and vice versa when the ground is not attached to the body.

i think i have no idea wtf is going on lol, but i'm gonna check out the wiring next. i dont think its the cas, because if it was, wouldnt i be getting an error code?

[boost_boy]

ok, put the 66 back in and i'm back to where i was. code 12 and code 34. cant get the knock sensor hooked up because i dont have a plug for it. i'm about to break off the plastic and solder the mother-effin wire right to the pin.

i have the ka maf hooked up. when i ground the black wire to the body it will rev up nicely but wont stay idling. and vice versa when the ground is not attached to the body.

i think i have no idea wtf is going on lol, but i'm gonna check out the wiring next. i dont think its the cas, because if it was, wouldnt i be getting an error code?

If you screw-up the wiring to the AFM, you will whack that ecu's circuitry "Point Blank". If you don't know what you're doing, find someone in your hood to help you. I've sat here quietly at my PC and watched too many people screw-up their set-ups because they were too proud to seek professional help and I'm not just talking about asking questions on this forum. People here don't see your wiring job (and that's where most problems lie), so assumptions are given based off what you want the forum to know about your situation. You can take my advice or do it your own way, but please don't rig the knock sensor plug.

Dee

[lostmenoggin]

yea, i know what youre saying. i bought the car with the swap already done. CH187 fixed this guys afm before i owned it (which is why in the topic title it says he may know about this car). i swapped motors because the one that was in it had a few bottom end problems. i havent touched the wiring. when i initially took the afm out to do the swap all i did was unplug it and i left everything else the way it was. when i was done i simply plugged it in again, ran the ecu test and ive been having these problems ever since. when i swapped in the KA maf i wired it according to the directions in the stickies and i always made sure to unhook the battery while doing so. i feel pretty confident that i know what i'm doing. however, i dont know about they guy that swapped the maf before me. i was hoping he might be able to shed some light. the ca maf that he swapped in was hooked up correctly, however the black ground wire was also grounded to the body which seemed wierd to me. this was before i swapped motors.

as far as the knock sensor plug goes, i'm going to call around the junkyards tomorrow and see if i can find a 89-94 maxima laying around that i can pull the plug off of. its just a little frustrating not being able to find the right part hence the comment i made earlier. i just hope that the ecu is not screwed.

below is a pic of EXACTLY how the afm was wired up when CH187 hooked it up for this kid and when i bought it.
Modified by lostmenoggin at 9:36 AM 10/14/2007

[lostmenoggin]

i guess i'm going to have to wait till tuesday for the new afm. i wouldnt be surprised if the ecu was fubar. after i bought the car and got it home, i noticed that a bunch of those wires that you hook up under the dash were disconnected, like someone got in the passengers side and their foot pulled them apart. the 3 ground wires you hook together were not hooked up. that was fixed before i swapped in the new motor though. that shop he took it to really ****ed his **** up and now its my problem, i guess.

[ch187]

woah woah woah woah. i didnt hook that maf up for him. i know how to wire it up and its definately not like that. sounds like someone was a little embarrassed about his wiring when he sold you the car. as far as i know the car ran fine after i sold the right CA maf to him. worked when i had it. i never even saw that car in person. hope this clears something up.

i sure as hell didnt wire that up thats offensive to me.

[lostmenoggin]

thanks for the clarification. you, or anyone else for that matter, wouldnt happen to have an extra ecu youd wanna sell do you? i need to get this car running properly soon. my volvo has been giving me trans problems and i need a decent vehicle asap.

[syphrus]

HOLY ****! sorry, i just saw this tread. dont get on much anymore. Yeah, Ch187 DEF! didnt hook the MAF up. All he did was sell it to me. Everything is hooked up right minus the ground. It has been rigged because i wanted to make sure everything is right before i sodder and shrink, but everything wasnt right. With it hooked up the way it was supposed to be, it ran like crap, so i searched on here and found that some people had grounded the maf to the body and had results, so i tried it and results. the car ran great. I took it as "the ground for the MAF was not thoroughly connected in the harness" I didnt have time to comb the harness, so i grounded it to the body, after searching and enough people saying "a ground is a ground" Im not trying to stick up for my rig job, but youve tried using the harness ground.. and .. blah. Anyways, yeah, ch never worked on it. The "wrong wiring" as shown isnt wrong, just not done professional for time purposes. Not trying to stick up for myself, just letting you know. If you have any questions or anything, let me know, ill check nico daily now.

[lostmenoggin]

yea, i know it was hooked up right, i was just curious as to the ground on the body. i just got the new maf in the mail today so i might go outside and plug it in and see if it fixes anything.... i'm also curious as to why after the motor swap i'm getting the maf code. all i did was unplug it when i swapped and plugged it back in when i was done..

[jt15833]

i didnt have my knock plug either. Get some shielded wire, chip off the green plastic and solder a 5" piece of the wire straight to the sensor. put shielded male spade on the end of wire then run a wire from ecu to the plug with female shielded spade on the end. been working for me ever since. plus its disconnectable.

[syphrus]

Try grounding to the harness, but i had no good results until i did another ground. Not sure at all man. I checked the ecu codes about 2 weeks before, and got 55 which is all good. Didnt check it after it was giving me the "idling on 3 cyl." problem.. but dont think that would be a MAF problem as much as a timing problem maybe.. also, what was the deal with the Knock sensor on my motor, cause thats one of the things i was charged for 1320 "fixing" just curious if there was any problems/ missing parts.

[lostmenoggin]

lol.. i dont know what happened to the KS wire, but the plug broke right off. i dont think it was ever hooked up.

[lostmenoggin]

i think the alternator might be part of my problem. ive got an optima red top in the car and when i put the voltmeter on it while it is running it reads 10.3 and dwindles down until the car stops running.

[syphrus]

The one on the other motor is like 3 weeks old, but its KA which means you have to kinda use your imagination on how to mount. I couldnt find anywhere around me to rebuild the ca one.

[lostmenoggin]

i believe the ka and the ca alternators have the same internals, different housings. so you just tell them to rebuild it for a ka24e. thats what i read doing a search..

[lostmenoggin]

ok.. i'm going to eat dinner and go over the diagnostics procedure as described on page EF & EC - 85 of the FSM. that should tell me what my problem is (hopefully)