MAF Problem. Q45Tech please help.

[coolyun_98]

Please refer to my previous post:

zerothread/338343

Sympton:Rough and Jummpy Idle. Some intermittent loud clicking and sputtering.

What I have dne to verify the problem:1) I got "12" ECL which means MAF mulfunctioning2) Make sure there is power supply going to the MAF (I got 11.92V)3) Make sure the harness/connection from MAF to ECU and ECCS relay is good (continuity is good)4) Output from MAF to ECU is 0.45 at ignition On and 1.35 at idle. FSM specifies 0.8 at ignition on and 1.5 at idle.5) I replaced my MAF with a Beck/Arnley replacement. The output is worse. (0.1V at ignition on, 1.3V at idle)

Do I really need to go for a new OEM MAF or there is something I could do to fix the car? ECL 12 is awals on.

[elwesso]

The BA MAF was probably, as proven, worse than the MAF that was in your car. OEM used is definitely better than who knows "new"..

Im pretty sure the Z32 MAF is the same as the j30 MAF so you're good, they should be easy to get.

[Q45tech]

Even idle mass air flow is affected by temperature and REAL barometric psi AND of course exact rpm as even a 65 rpm difference will vary flow by 10%.

So there are no exact correct voltage readings just ranges.

The problem is that the voltage output is not linear............flow has a 2.5 power exponent thus exponential.

Why 7 grams can read 1.3 volts and 200 grams/sec 4.4 volts

Most MAF failure are caused by bad internal solder joints after external connection corrosion or bent pins in connector. Examine oem for crystalization on solder - 3 input wires in 2 places and the 4 connections to actual in air flow sensor. 10x microscope and tiny tiny soldering irons, tools and knowledge of electronic repair techniques.

[yodawill2000]

Wes and Tech,We J30 types REALLY appreciate you masta's chiming in.

Thanks so much.

[coolyun_98]

Thanks a lot! I will try that!