MAF lifespan and Sensitivity

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vonbrutus
Posts: 14
Joined: Fri Oct 12, 2007 7:22 pm
Car: '01 maxima 20th anniv.

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I have recently replaced both upstream O2 sensors and still have problems with my '01 20th anniv (64k).

Problems are:

1. stutters and hesitates while cold and at low speeds2. power loss (or something that feels like power loss) at 4500 RPM. Not power loss like the engine turns off but more like no power getting put to the wheels.

Now the questions:

1. What is the typical lifespan of these MAF sensors?2. How sensitive are they? I ask because I've located one that has been parted out of a '01 that rolled (it had 68k miles on it). Pictures of part look as through there is no visible damage but I figure that they could be pretty sensitive to any hits or bangs.

The one I've located is being sold for $100 compared to $400 (cheapest I've found otherwise).

As far as installing it - it looks as though it would be an easy job.

Cheers,

MVB


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MinisterofDOOM
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It's really hard to tell whether a MAF would have survived the accident. Even looking at it you can't be completely sure (unless of course it has obvious visible damage).It might be worth a go. Hard to say.

As for the lifespan...hopefully some other 5th gen owners can shed some light. I'm not sure myself.

And yeah, installation is about as easy as it gets.

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93HATCH240
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My bros 96 max original maf lasted till 170,xxx. I know yours and his has the same motor but am unsure of the maf being the same or whether they changed it. Idk if any of this helps.

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dr-rjp
Posts: 188
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Car: 1998 I30
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vonbrutus wrote:I have recently replaced both upstream O2 sensors and still have problems with my '01 20th anniv (64k).

Problems are:

1. stutters and hesitates while cold and at low speeds2. power loss (or something that feels like power loss) at 4500 RPM. Not power loss like the engine turns off but more like no power getting put to the wheels.

Now the questions:

1. What is the typical lifespan of these MAF sensors?2. How sensitive are they? I ask because I've located one that has been parted out of a '01 that rolled (it had 68k miles on it). Pictures of part look as through there is no visible damage but I figure that they could be pretty sensitive to any hits or bangs.

The one I've located is being sold for $100 compared to $400 (cheapest I've found otherwise).

As far as installing it - it looks as though it would be an easy job.

Cheers,

MVB
What makes you think it is the MAF? Listen, if it were bad, you would get hard starts and lousy performance at all temperatures and at all speeds. It would not give you a dead spot only at 4500RPM, either. That's a normal shift point for automatics, and if you have an automatic, and it feels like its not going anywhere at 4500RPM, then that should also be a clue the fault is not with the MAF.

It is, without question, THE MOST SENSITIVE sensor in your car, and there is an easy way to have it tested b/f you would ever need to replace it. There is also an easy way to clean it, too.

Like I said, though, I doubt you have an MAF problem here.

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Sentientbydesign
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I'd second dr-rjp.

Spending money on "possibilities" for you car can get very pricey and cause you a lot of headaches.

Does the engine lose power at 4500 RPMs in all gears?

Does it matter how hard you accelerate?

This may sound stupid, but make sure there aren't any obstructions in the intake path. I'm not sure if you're running a stock intake of aftermarket, but I had a K&N knock-off and the heat and vibrations coupled with washing the filter made the chrome "cap" come off of the filter.

It started choking at 3500 RPMs and I freaked. I had to drive very slow and accelerate very slow to avoid hitting that RPM level, or the car would strain and die.

I took it to two mechanics and neither could figure it out, I finally went to clean my MAF and realized that the chrome cap was covering 85% of the MAF screen and the car couldn't get enough air.

And to address 93HATCH240, the engines aren't exactly the same, the MAF probably is, but the 96 max has the VQ30DE, the 01 has the VQ30DE-K with a different intake manifold.

NutriaforBreakfast
Posts: 1316
Joined: Wed Sep 26, 2007 1:41 pm
Car: Nissan Maxima 1995 VQDE engine

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You can check them with a multimeter

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the converted
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The problem with the 4500 rpm power drop is most likely secondary intake runners not opening up. I know I've seen info on how to diagnose it floating around but don't know off the top of my head. I didn't see anything about if you changed the plugs or not. I'd also make sure that the IACV is clean and move freely.


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