The original plan was to drop a freshly overhauled, but basically OE R34 engine in with just cams, a head gasket and the turbo kit I had already bought. That fell through, we would have to use my engine which, I hear, was put together from three engines.
This concerned me so I adjusted the build plan. if the block and head castings were usable, great, but the internals would need to be addressed. When we were talking about a refreshed R34 engine I had confidence that the parts would still be in usable condition, but now, with 25 year old bits and pieces, no way. I want new internals and quality machine work.
I found a nice price on a new N1 crank, Carrillo I-beam rods and CP forged pistons and placed my order. One vendor for the crank, another for the rods and pistons. Both of those vendors didn't have the parts in stock like their sites said and neither could confirm when they would be in stock. I was pissed, the orders were canceled and I still needed a rotating assembly.
I had been lusting after a 2.8 stroker kit from down under, but I didn't want to drop that much coin, but with this new turn of events, suddenly, the kit actually had real utility. They had it on the shelf ready to ship. Order placed.
http://www.spoolimports.com/spool-strok ... stoker-kit
I was not enamored with a stroker as I already don't like the rod angles on the RB with its short deck, but it was this or nothing. I like this kit for several reasons.
1. This kit does make up the stroke by moving the pin up, though, so it's better than others in that respect.
2. I get the I-beam rods I prefer over H-beam, which I feel is an inferior design.
3. The shop is used to using CP pistons and the domes on the standard ones they use are very similar to the CPs in this kit.
4. The crank is fully counterweighted, much better than comparable items with only eight weights.
5. Spool makes a spline drive oil pump kit as well which solves another RB problem, broken oil pumps AND they had facility to do the machine work and mount it before shipping to me.
Great customer service, fast shipping, but the boxes could be built better; my crank got pretty smacked up, but overall I'm pleased. I will have to ensure it wasn't tweaked getting bashed around on the way to me.
RB engines have their oil pumps driven normally by two flats on the crank, like this. Top is an early crank with a narrow drive section, below is the later version with a better, wider section which helps but doesn't cure the problem.
There is a great deal of play between the crank and the driven gear and it rattles after a fashion and places all the stress on the edges of the flats. This vibration can actually cause the pump's backing plate to come loose an to round off the driven sections of the gear like stripping a nut with an open ended wrench which eventually shatters the gear like this, blows the pump and then the engine.
This is the Achilles heel of this engine and kills them quite frequently. Since my build got awfully serious, this would not stand. Many try to fix the problem by getting hardened gears, but the fundamental problem is still there, it just makes failure less likely, but the failure profile remains. Nope, that's not good enough. I had Spool slap one of thier spline drive setups on my crank. The spline system spreads the load 360 degrees and there is very little lash so it should completely eliminate this problem.
Spool also sells the hardened gears to go into the Nissan pump. I went with the N1 pump body and gear wave profile for better flow.
And that gear will slide over this new collar.
My focus on oil control is resolute and there will be some more steps taken to be detailed in later postings.