Throw out some prices on how much it cost to get your RB rebuilt, including parts, labor, etc...
Modified by DETurbine at 4:49 PM 2/7/2005
Machine shop rebuild?
i can give you a ballpark for what i'm getting done and how much its costing me (labor only, no materials) for the 26 (should be no diff for the 25).
1. dissassemble, check clearance of valves2. re-seat valves and change valve guides/seats as necessary.3. hot tank, bore, hone the block to 87mm (to fit wisecos duh )4. resize (arp rod bolts) and shot peen the rods5. deck the block and the head6. balance the assembly7. polish the crank, balance crank8. assemble rods and pistons together
Things you listed that I'm not getting done:assemble bottom end.
they told me all the bearing specs i need. i believe the most expesive "steps" are the head work (labor intensive).
worst case scenario they quaoted me $~800. it is a reputable machine shop in my area.
Hope that helps.
1. dissassemble, check clearance of valves2. re-seat valves and change valve guides/seats as necessary.3. hot tank, bore, hone the block to 87mm (to fit wisecos duh )4. resize (arp rod bolts) and shot peen the rods5. deck the block and the head6. balance the assembly7. polish the crank, balance crank8. assemble rods and pistons together
Things you listed that I'm not getting done:assemble bottom end.
they told me all the bearing specs i need. i believe the most expesive "steps" are the head work (labor intensive).
worst case scenario they quaoted me $~800. it is a reputable machine shop in my area.
Hope that helps.
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accel junky
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gawdzilla- thanks for the reply, it helps me out quite a bit. I was kind thinking for mine it will be $600 or so. I might myself put together the bottom end if I can get my friend to help me with it (since he has done it more then a few times.) Just feel allot safer when a machine shop with all the proper calibrated tools and knowledge does it.
Accel Junky- Most machine shops will work with the RB's, but you are going to have to find out if they have a deck plate for the RB. I know if they do not have an RB deck plate then the I6 from the 240-260z will work. I would try and find a machine shop that has some good knowledge with I6 (being a RB, 2jz, 1jz, 7mgte, etc....) or a shop that has experiance with import motors.
Accel Junky- Most machine shops will work with the RB's, but you are going to have to find out if they have a deck plate for the RB. I know if they do not have an RB deck plate then the I6 from the 240-260z will work. I would try and find a machine shop that has some good knowledge with I6 (being a RB, 2jz, 1jz, 7mgte, etc....) or a shop that has experiance with import motors.
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yellow_jacket
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- Car: 95 240sx
Re: (accel junky)
Any qualified machine shop will be able to do it. You will just need to get them the specs. If you are going to sleeve the motor, then I would start to worry about where to take it. But for a good bore, valve job, and balance job there are many good machine shops that can handle this. Especially since the cylinders are NOT FRM or Nickasil.
edited for content mistake.
Modified by yellow_jacket at 5:52 PM 1/18/2005
edited for content mistake.
Modified by yellow_jacket at 5:52 PM 1/18/2005
Re: (gawdzilla)
How much are they chargine you to shot peen the rods?gawdzilla wrote:4. resize (arp rod bolts) and shot peen the rods
Re: (DETurbine)
not much... about $40-50. Worth it IMO.DETurbine wrote:
How much are they chargine you to shot peen the rods?
A note about deck plate... I didn't get one. My shop didn't have one, nor did they make one for me (although they were willing if i wanted to shell out). Basically what they said when they took an initial inspection of the block was that the water jackets and the head stud holes were separate. They said that blocks designed this way had little to no cylinder flex when the head was torqued down. They had done tests on it, and basically getting a deck plate wasn't going to do much.