M56S - not starting due to low oil?

Forum for Infiniti M37, M56 M35h Hybrid and Q70 owners.
bpratt
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Joined: Wed Dec 29, 2010 3:59 pm
Car: 2011 M56S

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I’ve got a 2011 M56S that has an intermittent problem where it won’t start. Everything lights up, but the starter never even tries to crank. It’s as though my foot isn’t on the brake, except that it is and the rear brake lights are all on.

When this last happened a few months back, I happened to notice the oil level was low. Not dry, but at the dot on the bottom of the dipstick where I should add a quart. I added oil and (I thought conincidentally) the problem hasn’t reoccurred since until tonight. I checked and again the oil level is at the “add a quart” level, so I added some.

The problem is rare and intermittent enough that I don’t know if this is coincidence or causation. Anyone else out there experienced this, or know enough about the M56 ignition sequence to know if this is even possible?

Does the car check oil level or pressure before cranking? If it does, it seems like the sensor is perhaps just adjusted a little too sensitively. But if I know that’s what is happening keeping the oil level higher is no big deal.

Thanks for any advice.

Bob


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Ilya
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I think this is coincidence. How's your battery in the FOB? I had intermittent issues with starting on my '11 M56x before it finally died and neither remote would work. Per the dealer, all they did was give me two new fobs under warranty and called it a day. Haven't had an issue since.

bpratt
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Car: 2011 M56S

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It absolutely could be coincidence.

I'll try replacing the battery fob, that's easy enough to do and can't hurt. I doubt that's it, though, as everything lights up when I press the ignition button, the starter just doesn't crank. So it doesn't seem like a "no key" situation.

My other suspicion in the past has been the battery, but the car does start eventually after a bunch of button presses, turning all the way off and trying again, pounding the steering wheel, etc :-) If it was the battery I'd expect it to get weaker with each attempt, not to work the 10th or 15th try.

Very frustrating, and because it's so intermittent I don't see how the dealer will be able to figure it out either. So far they've replaced the brake switch (free as goodwill).

thx
Bob

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audtatious
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Could simply be an issue with the starter itself or a switch for the brake...or many other things. I won't be due to oil level unless the motor is locked up.

Spork3245
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Joined: Mon Mar 05, 2018 8:31 pm
Car: 2011 M56x

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Check your battery, the stock one is underpowered and can barely start the car in cold weather.

bpratt
Posts: 16
Joined: Wed Dec 29, 2010 3:59 pm
Car: 2011 M56S

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I put a new battery in only 6 months ago, and it was 65 or 70 yesterday when it refused to start again until the 10th or 15th try, so I doubt it's the battery.

It's a very frustrating problem precisely because the symptoms don't seem to mimic anything I'd normally expect. That's why I've resorted to wondering if something in the ignition sequence checks an oil level or pressure sensor before allowing the starter to crank. Seems unlikely to me, but who knows.

And of course I drove it all over today and started it at least a half dozen times with no problems.

thanks,
Bob

EdBwoy
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Is there a chance you are getting in and doing the sequence too fast?
That is the time between unlocking the door - opening door - pushing start button might be a little too short for the car's liking.

It has happened to me with various cars on occasion; cars with the conventional key blade and a transponder chip. What I do is pull the key out, give it a few seconds and retry and the car starts like nothing happened. What would be different is that in this car, the transponder is already active and visinle to the car die to the antenna, and doesn't need the chip to be close to the key tumbler of yore.

I know the FSM typically doesn't mention anything about my theory, but I am thinking that is how a carjacking or break in would go so part of security would be to program a delay.

bpratt
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Car: 2011 M56S

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Hmm. I haven’t noticed a correlation with timing but I haven’t thought of that either. Next time it happens I’ll keep an eye out. But I think probably not, as typically I’ll have to try 5-10 times at least before the car starts. Even if the first time is too fast after that I’m sitting in the car.

Thx
Bob

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armybrat
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I don't think the oil level has anything to do with the car not starting. When I bought my M56x, I had no idea it blew excess oil through the PCV valves. I drove the first 5000 mikes without even checking it. The stick was bone dry (no telling how long I drove it like that) and I had no starting up issues. Now I check it at least every 2000 miles.

asafinar
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Car: Infiniti M56x 2011

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I have M56x 2011 I have the same issue with srarting up the car. Its 50/50. It can start from the first attempt and it can start from the 10th attempt.
At first I thought it was the the key fob discharged battery causing this problem, but then I replaced it, but no change. Still have that issue.
My thought is that the low voltage of the car's main battery can cause the starter not to react.
My car keeps 11.9 volts while on parking. Even when I drive it shows 11.9 or 12 volts.
But a lot of people say its not normal and this could be an issue.
Guys please share your experience if you had this type of problem solved

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PalmerWMD
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asafinar wrote:
Sun Jul 12, 2020 2:51 am
I have M56x 2011 I have the same issue with srarting up the car. Its 50/50. It can start from the first attempt and it can start from the 10th attempt.
At first I thought it was the the key fob discharged battery causing this problem, but then I replaced it, but no change. Still have that issue.
My thought is that the low voltage of the car's main battery can cause the starter not to react.
My car keeps 11.9 volts while on parking. Even when I drive it shows 11.9 or 12 volts.
But a lot of people say its not normal and this could be an issue.
Guys please share your experience if you had this type of problem solved
Good thinking.

While I currently dont have any issues I recall buying a new ( to me) Xterra.

As part of my "making my used car near perfect" routine I bought a new gel type battery for it.
I originally had wanted to buy an Odyssey gel type but they dindt have one in stock..
So I went with their house-brand, made for this chain.. I dont remember the brand anymore..

Few months later had starting issue in mild winter weather.
Never thought it was the battery since it was near new..

But a check at a local dealer showed that indeed it was..
Then I remembered that when starting even from day 1 the start was never as immediate and positive as I was used to from my other cars even when battery was new.

The moral of this story: .. I strongly suspect my battery was bad from day One when I i bought it at the auto parts store ...and it finally showed up as a noticable issue later.
I now have a slightly oversize Bosch made-in-Germany Battery in the car.

asafinar
Posts: 32
Joined: Fri Jan 10, 2020 2:33 am
Car: Infiniti M56x 2011

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THank You for the response. Can somebody share their battery voltage while on parking and while driving just to compare with my situation ?

Yoda's Master
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Car: 2012 M56
2009 370z
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This has been well discussed. Infiniti defect to sell batteries.

howto-disable-ecm-controlled-alternator-t623786.html

EdBwoy
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I have experienced it but not come to a definitive solution yet.

What I've found however, is that warm starts seem to be more prone to the click-no-start issue. My first start of the day/a few hours parked are always crisp, but if I parked the car at a store and came out after only a few minutes, the car might have a starting issue.

Most times I follow the owner's manual recommendation to wait a little while after stopping before turning it off and most times it starts with the first button push.

That issue shouldn't be confused with the constant-dead-battery issue that some people experience.
post6805934.html#p6805934

Yoda's Master
Posts: 463
Joined: Tue Jul 10, 2018 11:26 pm
Car: 2012 M56
2009 370z
Location: Rock in the middle of nowhere

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I meant to quote PalmerWMD's and asafinar's post about the voltage issue

Oleg92
Posts: 45
Joined: Sun Apr 19, 2020 2:16 pm
Car: 2003 Ford Taurus SE
2012 Altima 2.5
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Current car : 2012 M56S RWD

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first of all 11.9v is too low. it should be about 12.9 or 13v.

otherwise what i recommend for you the check is that the fasteners on the battery terminals is firm and that your battery terminals are not corroded.

I know you got a brand new battery but if your terminals are bad you will experience the same issues as a bad battery



if you want i can check my battery voltage tomorrow with my obd Bluetooth scan tool.

I haven't experienced any issues in the last 6 months as far as starting the car, its been flawless 1 click motion


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