Debonair wrote:

withomps44 wrote:I have all of the lights for the interior and have the puddle, dome, etc... all in.. Love it. My 2 questions I'm stuck on... What exact bulb do I need for the glove box.... and 2... how do I get the stinking covers off the back reading lights. I am having a helluva time getting to them. Thanks so much for this thread!!!

Glovebox is a number 74 as shown in the chart above. Check eBay or Google LED number 74 for your options.

Rear reading lamp lenses popped off if I remember correctly. The first one I tried I actually pulled the whole housing out. Don't do that. just get at the lens only, it will come out.

Thank you!! forgot I had one more question... How did you get two of the lights together in the front dome light wired up? Is there a splitter I'm missing?

I believe in one of the earlier posts it was explained that one has to splice the wires (no connector/splitter). And they connect backwards (red to black, black to red).

withomps44 wrote:Thank you!! forgot I had one more question... How did you get two of the lights together in the front dome light wired up? Is there a splitter I'm missing?

Mjkkb2 wrote:I believe in one of the earlier posts it was explained that one has to splice the wires (no connector/splitter). And they connect backwards (red to black, black to red).

MJkkb2 is correct. I soldered the two reds together and then the two blacks together. Then since the stock bulb in this location is reverse polarity I wired the two reds to the bulb base black, and the two blacks to the bulb base red.

Debonair wrote:

withomps44 wrote:Thank you!! forgot I had one more question... How did you get two of the lights together in the front dome light wired up? Is there a splitter I'm missing?

Mjkkb2 wrote:I believe in one of the earlier posts it was explained that one has to splice the wires (no connector/splitter). And they connect backwards (red to black, black to red).

MJkkb2 is correct. I soldered the two reds together and then the two blacks together. Then since the stock bulb in this location is reverse polarity I wired the two reds to the bulb base black, and the two blacks to the bulb base red.

Ok. So I'm going to solder my light panels together red to red and black to black... then cut the wires running to the BA9S and solder them back red to black?

this is what I have done.
1. take two T10 connectors, pull out the ends (T10 side) and discard it. You will be left with two sets of connectors with bare wires one end and plastic connector the other end.
2. connect (solder preferably but not necessarily) two reds together and two blacks together. You will end up with a double connector with bare red and black one end and two plastic connectors the other end.
3. connect one panel light to one of the double connector clips, connect second panel light to the other conn clip. You will be left with two panel lights connected (parallel) with double bare red and black wires on the other end.
4. Take the BA9 connector and remove the plastic clip/end and discard it. Connect double red wire end from the panel lights to the black wire of the Ba9, connect double red wire to the ba9 black wire (solder preferably but not required).
Plug the Ba9 into the dome light socket. Done.

You can also forgo reusing the extra connectors and just remove all the white clips and solder the wires together. You can also connect the panels in series instead of parallel. The possibility are endless . I have not soldered mine, just twisted them together and taped them with electrical tape. Have been working so far without issues.

WOW. THANK YOU!!!!!

I'm sure there's a better way of doing it, so you may want to wait for others to comment before you get to it.

Those instructions are pretty much spot on. I left the connector on because I was not sure if I was going to be happy with the output. Since I have guinea-pig'ed it for you you can just solder everything together.

Also when I tested them prior to soldering they did not work in series configuration, only in parallel.

I decided to pull the 3k HID's from my fog lights since I have been disappointed with their color output. I am going to give the Putco Jet Yellow 3000K bulbs a try. They are pretty popular with the Lexus crowd (my previous crowd).

Output pics to come.

I am someone who will always want/love bright lights... on the OUTSIDE of my car. Why would anyone ever want ridiculously bright light in the cabin?...beats me. I bought a black on black car and tinted it to 15% immediately. I have a hard time understanding LED modding the interior of a car. I rarely turn on interior lights. What is the draw to upgrading cabin lighting?

That being said...to each there own, but I will never upgrade to a BRIGHTER lighting.

agoodall wrote:I am someone who will always want/love bright lights... on the OUTSIDE of my car. Why would anyone ever want ridiculously bright light in the cabin?...beats me. I bought a black on black car and tinted it to 15% immediately. I have a hard time understanding LED modding the interior of a car. I rarely turn on interior lights. What is the draw to upgrading cabin lighting?

That being said...to each there own, but I will never upgrade to a BRIGHTER lighting.

Definitely to each their own. That said ridiculously bright is an opinion. In my opinion the factory lights are ridiculously dim. I just don't dig the 70's beige light look. Its fine in pickups and corollas but I don't like them in my cars.

So to answer your question I guess the draw is that it looks and feel much newer, crisper. Not like a crappy hotel room with 40w bulbs in the single lamp. More like a high end showroom. I, like you, do not turn on the interior lights often. Only if I am looking for something in which case ample light helps, or I open a door and then the car turns them on for me. With the doors closed or while driving my interior has the same amount of lighting as yours.

As technology moves forward LED lighting will become stock in better cars, already is in some I think, and then you will have to downgrade to dim incandescent lighting, or stick to old cars.

I am not sure what tint has to do with anything but all my windows sans the windshield are also tinted.

Fog Light Update. HID's are out, Putco H8's are in


HID on the left (passenger) and Putco on the right (driver)




3K HID's were brighter than standard H8 bulbs as expected. But the color output was only yellowish on the edges and mostly white everywhere else. The camera picks up more yellow and less overall brightness then my eyes do.




The Putco Jet Yellows about as bright the stock white bulbs were. They have a very rich yellow color. The camera again plays some tricks and makes them look a little brighter then my eyes perceive them to be. Overall I am happy with them.




EDITED: I had the pics reversed. Fixed now.

Only the third pic shows up, the first two do not.

Never mind, I see them now

Hi, I need a little help. I replaced all of the interior lights on my 2012 M37. I have one problem and two questions:

1. Problem: when I went to pull out the rear reading light, the entire mount came out. The mount is held in by the cover but now I can't snap it back in because the mount just pushes back. It just floats in the door. How to I fix this? Is there an easy way to fix the door?

2. Question: how on earth do I replace the light in the glove box? The light right now does not even seem to be working, unless there is a switch somewhere. Does the glove box slide down somehow?

3. Question: the light covers on the footwell lights are dark, nearly black. I didn't even know that they were there until I replaced the bulbs. They put out almost no light. Is this how they are supposed to be? Is there somewhere that I buy new covers from?

Thanks for your help! The lights look great and match the Infiniti light up kick plates perfectly. I just need to fix these problems.

InfinitiAce wrote:Hi, I need a little help. I replaced all of the interior lights on my 2012 M37. I have one problem and two questions:

1. Problem: when I went to pull out the rear reading light, the entire mount came out. The mount is held in by the cover but now I can't snap it back in because the mount just pushes back. It just floats in the door. How to I fix this? Is there an easy way to fix the door?

I think I did this too. It can be fixed I just don't remember how I did it. I'll have to take another look at it.

I'm thinking I might have removed the weather stripping and held it from between the headliner and the roof but I'm not sure. It was a while ago.

InfinitiAce wrote:2. Question: how on earth do I replace the light in the glove box? The light right now does not even seem to be working, unless there is a switch somewhere. Does the glove box slide down somehow?

I think the vehicles headlights have to be on for the glove box light to work. You have to remove the glove box and the panel above it to get to the light.

InfinitiAce wrote:3. Question: the light covers on the footwell lights are dark, nearly black. I didn't even know that they were there until I replaced the bulbs. They put out almost no light. Is this how they are supposed to be? Is there somewhere that I buy new Covers from?

The clear replacement lens is actually listed on the chart at the beginning of this thread. Part# 26421-4P0000

This video shows how to get access the glove box light bulb (on the way to the cabin air filter). I suggest you change the cabin air filter while you are in there for the bulb so that you do not have to do this twice.

[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ONlbh_t2irs[/youtube]

InfinitiAce wrote:2. Question: how on earth do I replace the light in the glove box? The light right now does not even seem to be working, unless there is a switch somewhere. Does the glove box slide down somehow?

I think the vehicles headlights have to be on for the glove box light to work. You have to remove the glove box and the panel above it to get to the light.

InfinitiAce wrote:3. Question: the light covers on the footwell lights are dark, nearly black. I didn't even know that they were there until I replaced the bulbs. They put out almost no light. Is this how they are supposed to be? Is there somewhere that I buy new Covers from?

The clear replacement lens is actually listed on the chart at the beginning of this thread. Part# 26421-4P0000[/quote]


Thanks! You are correct. The headlights need to be on for the glovebox light to work. Seems odd. 90 percent of the time when I am getting something from the glovebox, the car is off. Oh well.

I am going to order those new lenses so I get a little light on the floor and tackle that glovebox light when I need to change my filter.

I ordered a couple of these for my girlfriend's FX50... I popped them into my M37 before she got home to check them out. inside in a dark garage they look FANTASTIC... Little too "Look at me" for me so I won't be using them but she loved them. Anyway... they are the real deal. Very bright LED light and very crisp lines on the logo from the M. Will put them in the FX next week and see if they are as sharp.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KZD ... UTF8&psc=1



and no that's not a pic I took... it's from a photo on the product page. No idea what kind of car that is. lol

Definitely too gimmicky for me. The tiny projectors they user for those are cool though. There are companies that make custom logos for them too. You could theoretically get a NICO one if you wanted.

Examples

withomps44 wrote:I ordered a couple of these for my girlfriend's FX50... I popped them into my M37 before she got home to check them out. inside in a dark garage they look FANTASTIC... Little too "Look at me" for me so I won't be using them but she loved them. Anyway... they are the real deal. Very bright LED light and very crisp lines on the logo from the M. Will put them in the FX next week and see if they are as sharp.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KZD ... UTF8&psc=1



and no that's not a pic I took... it's from a photo on the product page. No idea what kind of car that is. lol

They need to make the bat signal or the superman symbol.

SwissCheeseHead wrote:They need to make the bat signal or the superman symbol.

Done and done.

Thanks for the awesome write up. I was able to swap all the LED lights I had from my hopefully-soon-to-be-sold G35x sedan. Only bulb that I have to purchase is the map light, thanks for posting your link.

CRV_33 wrote:Thanks for the awesome write up. I was able to swap all the LED lights I had from my hopefully-soon-to-be-sold G35x sedan. Only bulb that I have to purchase is the map light, thanks for posting your link.

I did all of them but can't get my front dome's to work...no matter how i place the bulb.... argh1

parkstr8r wrote:I did all of them but can't get my front dome's to work...no matter how i place the bulb.... argh1

They need to be reverse polarity. If you are using an LED panel like I did hook the red wire(s) to the black wire on the socket part and the black wire(s) to the red wired on the socket part.

Also make sure the 'dome light off' button is not pressed.

I received H8 LED bulbs for the fogs. And ordered amber DRLs, as well. Dark amber looks nice on a black car.

Are these too good to be true? LED Turn Sigal Bulbs with no Resistors necessary and no Hyperflashing?

http://store.ijdmtoy.com/No-Hyper-Flash ... 01.htm#des

http://store.ijdmtoy.com/No-Resistor-Re ... 20-025.htm

Does one look better/brighter/higher quality than the other?

LVApeMan56 wrote:Are these too good to be true? LED Turn Sigal Bulbs with no Resistors necessary and no Hyperflashing?

http://store.ijdmtoy.com/No-Hyper-Flash ... 01.htm#des

http://store.ijdmtoy.com/No-Resistor-Re ... 20-025.htm

Does one look better/brighter/higher quality than the other?

These have been available for a while from many retailers and seem like the easiest, most hassle free way to upgrade to LED signals. The only downside I am aware of is the 400% price increase over standard LEDs. That's why I passed on them with my initial LED overhaul.

As far as the ones you posted the CREE version is listed as 3x brighter and is priced higher, the 5730 is only listed as much brighter.

Debonair wrote:

LVApeMan56 wrote:Are these too good to be true? LED Turn Sigal Bulbs with no Resistors necessary and no Hyperflashing?

http://store.ijdmtoy.com/No-Hyper-Flash ... 01.htm#des

http://store.ijdmtoy.com/No-Resistor-Re ... 20-025.htm

Does one look better/brighter/higher quality than the other?

These have been available for a while from many retailers and seem like the easiest, most hassle free way to upgrade to LED signals. The only downside I am aware of is the 400% price increase over standard LEDs. That's why I passed on them with my initial LED overhaul.

As far as the ones you posted the CREE version is listed as 3x brighter and is priced higher, the 5730 is only listed as much brighter.

Appreciate the input, Debonair. Did you not do your blinkers on the initial overhaul, or are you just dealing with the hyperflash?
I'm trying to avoid resistors if at all possible. Finding a safe place to mount them for the rear blinkers is a hassle considering how hot they can get, and being in Vegas where it's 110+ degrees.. using doublesided tape doesn't seem feasible for a safe and secure mount back there.