In this case, the something else would probably be a starter solenoid, for instance. Also, FYI, I said it won't go into ACC with the steering wheel interlock, but I'm not 100% sure that's right. Been a long time since I've had to fight a steering wheel interlock (did on my M once, but I've had it for over 5 years). Regardless, the LCD will indicate the issue if it is the ignition switch not being able to go to the start position due to a safety switch or interlock.The00Dustin wrote:If it doesn't recognize the key, I think it will say no key where it says to hit the brakes and press the start button (only it will actually say "no key" vs that graphic). It will also show a graphic of steering wheel and arrows if the steering wheel interlock is preventing it from turning (this will prevent going to ACC, and you have to turn the steering wheel so it's between locked position clicks in order to let the ignition turn (same as if you were trying to turn it yourself with a real key), and it will show an arrow next to a P if you need to shift to park if the transmission interlock is causing the problem. If the LCD doesn't indicate a problem and everything else seems fine, it's probably something else.
It gets stiff because you built up pressure in the system. Totally normal and if it didn't get stiff, you'd have a problem. It gets less stiff when the car is running due to the brake system working and equalizing pressure, if you will.built2makeit wrote:lol mine is doing the same thing, started about 2 years ago, brought it to the dealer but of course it started normally. smh, sometimes my brake pedal gets super firm after numerous attempts to start it and then it will start randomly. Such a PITA
There is nothing that "turns" in the column. There is a NATS antenna near the push button start that gets the transponder ID when the I-Key is in range. The column is locked by the column lock, as these cars don't have a traditional ignition switch.The00Dustin wrote:I'm pretty sure they work the same way, you can hear the ignition switch turning, for instance, if you press it without your foot on the brake to go into ACC. Also, if the switch didn't mechanically turn, there would be no reason for it to stick when the steering wheel is locked (that is a mechanical design to prevent theft, not a safety design to prevent starting the car).
EDIT: To clarify, the mechanical design to prevent theft is that the steering wheel (and thus, steering system) can't be turned because it is mechanically locked by the ignition switch. The switch not turning while the steering wheel is pressing firmly against the locking mechanism is a side effect.
Something most certainly moves during ignition before the starter engages. If you're going to suggest that I'm wrong about exactly what moves, which I may well be, you could at least go into a little bit of detail with a proper correction. For instance, if something behind the push button doesn't turn the way a keyed ignition would when said keyed ignition is in the dash, then the motion I am describing may well be an electronic actuator or solenoid for the steering wheel lock. At the end of the day, that wouldn't change the fact that the behavior I was describing (vehicle won't start due to steering wheel lock being jammed, even if due to programming vs mechanical switch rotation @ ignition switch) can exist and is a valid point to troubleshoot for the OP's clicking noise and lack of ignition. Another explanation might change that fact, but the lack of any explanation potentially leaves people thinking my entire line of thinking is wrong with the only potential benefit stopping at someone not buying a new start button while still not resolving the issue.BlackCat81 wrote:There is nothing that "turns" in the column. There is a NATS antenna near the push button start that gets the transponder ID when the I-Key is in range. The column is locked by the column lock, as these cars don't have a traditional ignition switch.The00Dustin wrote:I'm pretty sure they work the same way, you can hear the ignition switch turning, for instance, if you press it without your foot on the brake to go into ACC. Also, if the switch didn't mechanically turn, there would be no reason for it to stick when the steering wheel is locked (that is a mechanical design to prevent theft, not a safety design to prevent starting the car).
EDIT: To clarify, the mechanical design to prevent theft is that the steering wheel (and thus, steering system) can't be turned because it is mechanically locked by the ignition switch. The switch not turning while the steering wheel is pressing firmly against the locking mechanism is a side effect.
I've begun to experience this same intermittent occurrence this past two months. I'll start the troubleshooting with the battery, then the starter, etc.BlackCat81 wrote:There is a NATS antenna near the push button start that gets the transponder ID when the I-Key is in range. The column is locked by the column lock, as these cars don't have a traditional ignition switch.
I had an intelligent key issue while under warranty, and some module was replaced, but my I-keys have never been picked up by the slot since then (so if my battery gets too low, I'm SOL). Is there anything around here that could have been left disconnected that may be easy to get to and reconnect?Costee wrote:I've begun to experience this same intermittent occurrence this past two months. I'll start the troubleshooting with the battery, then the starter, etc.
The NATS antenna in our cars is not located near the push button ignition switch, it is integrated into the I-Key slot controller.
Keys were not replaced. Red key light in the dash was lit up and dealer said it wasn't safe to drive and left me in a loaner for a couple weeks when I had them check it out. This was in 2009, so I'm really fuzzy on the details. Unfortunately, I didn't notice the slot not working until the fob batteries got too low after the car was out of warranty.Costee wrote:What was the issue? Were the keys replaced?
Yes, that is what I mean. It acts like there is no key when the key is in the slot. I was under the impression that an RFID-like technology was used regardless, but the battery simply provided amplification so that the fob didn't need to be in the slot. So to be clear, you are telling me that the I-key function that requires battery in the FOB uses separate communication from the function that detects a key in the slot?Costee wrote:Do you mean no response whatsoever when insert the key into the slot and you press the ignition switch? No movement to Acc and On?
My thoughts:The red light staying solid was certainly a NATS issue. They probably replaced the key slot unit. Normally when you replace with a brand-new unit no programming is needed. But it seems they programmed the remote function, and having done that ought to also have programmed the key function. I think their failure to do this is the cause of the inability of the slot to recognize your key. I’d suggest the keys would have to be reprogrammed.
It's a hard one really; but it just does seem to me that the remote has taken over the key because of the improper programming. One more thing: when the key is in the slot how is the red security indicator light--does it blink on, disappear, or stay solid?The00Dustin wrote:I was under the impression that an RFID-like technology was used regardless, but the battery simply provided amplification so that the fob didn't need to be in the slot. So to be clear, you are telling me that the I-key function that requires battery in the FOB uses separate communication from the function that detects a key in the slot?
I took my battery to be recharged yesterday. Got it back today and no incident yet. I scanned the car (should have done that before I removed the battery) and it returned a stored (previous) non-MIL code for low battery voltage under the ABS module. As we all know the M is usually up to all sorts of mischief once there is a low battery voltage. My next step will be the starter if issue recurs.Costee wrote:I've begun to experience this same intermittent occurrence this past two months. I'll start the troubleshooting with the battery, then the starter, etc.
I'm colorblind. Are you referring to the light on the dash that says security on it, or the light on the slot? In either case, when should it be on / blink / be off? Finally, keep in mind that the fob works fine even while in the slot if the battery is good. That having been said, should the fob in the slot work with no battery at all, and is that what you are asking me to test?Costee wrote:Edit. I just found out that it's only brand-new ecm and steering lock unit that do not require key programming (ITB05-007b). So to answer your question, I think there is some dysfunction between the key and the slot as you've observed. Still I'd be curious to know what happens to the security light when the key is in the slot.
1. Yes, it's the light on the dash that says security on it.The00Dustin wrote:Are you referring to the light on the dash that says security on it, or the light on the slot? In either case, when should it be on / blink / be off? Finally, keep in mind that the fob works fine even while in the slot if the battery is good. That having been said, should the fob in the slot work with no battery at all, and is that what you are asking me to test?
Are you saying that after the battery recharge all is OK? That said, if the problem re-occurs you are going to look at the starter as a possible issue?Costee wrote:I took my battery to be recharged yesterday. Got it back today and no incident yet. I scanned the car (should have done that before I removed the battery) and it returned a stored (previous) non-MIL code for low battery voltage under the ABS module. As we all know the M is usually up to all sorts of mischief once there is a low battery voltage. My next step will be the starter if issue recurs.Costee wrote:I've begun to experience this same intermittent occurrence this past two months. I'll start the troubleshooting with the battery, then the starter, etc.
1. So far so good.steve_c wrote: Are you saying that after the battery recharge all is OK? That said, if the problem re-occurs you are going to look at the starter as a possible issue?
How old is your battery? if it is over 3 or 4 years, why didn't you replace it? Why did it need a charge to begin with?
My security light blinks any time I observe it unless the car is running, then it stays off. I've never seen it stay on. Case in point, before leaving work for lunch today, I took the battery out of the fob. It continued to blink.Costee wrote:1. Yes, it's the light on the dash that says security on it.
2. The light blinks when no action is performed on the car; it's on when your key is not recognized; it's off when your car is on.
3. I don't understand what you mean by the fob working fine when in the key slot. I thought you said the car can't get started with the fob/key in the slot?
4. I believe the car can get started with the fob in the slot, even when there's no battery in the fob; only the remote functions are lost.
I'd recommend replacing the battery now. In the 9.5 years that I've owned my 2006 M45, I've twice had an Interstate rep tell me my battery was fine (two different batteries, two different locations, two different reps) when it apparently wasn't, because replacing it resolved my odd issues both times.Costee wrote:1. So far so good.
2. Yes, I'll consider the starter next if problem recurs.
3. Battery is 3 years.
4. I've been using the frequently in the past two months. Battery probably lost some power as a result. Yes, I could also consider a new battery if it's determined that some of the cells are going bad.
I guess I will soon. For the moment, it seemed to have addressed the start button issue.The00Dustin wrote:I'd recommend replacing the battery now. In the 9.5 years that I've owned my 2006 M45, I've twice had an Interstate rep tell me my battery was fine (two different batteries, two different locations, two different reps) when it apparently wasn't, because replacing it resolved my odd issues both times.