My key to open the car did not function a couple of days ago, so I used the mechanical key and drove home. In the morning my fob opened the car but could not turn the engine on so I used the mechanical metal key and it turned the engine but it would not start. I suspected the battery which was less than two years old, so I have exchanged it for a new battery. And when it did not start the car I changed the battery in the key fob and again no result. So I called the road assistance and the guy tried to jump the battery but it did not start and he mentioned that there is no gas going in the engine as if the pump has been disabled due to programing issue; as if the car would have acted in case someone was trying to break into it.
I called the dealer who wanted me to have the car towed to their facility, obviously. And if they just program the key it will be $150 and if it needs a new key the cost is extra $650. So I tried to find other companies specialized in programming and one company said that I should replace the key and program it for $600.
Before I make any decisions I appreciate it if anyone has a better and cheaper solution. Luckily I am retired and I don't have to drive to work which makes it easier to wait a little bit.
Thank you for any suggestions.
Maurice

Does sound like a NATS issue on my old Maxima which had much the same issue...but it was an $84 reprogram.

Although this likely doesn't relate to the initial problem, check to ensure that the transponder chip is still present and didn't fall off when you replaced the fob battery or someone else fiddled with it and lost it.
Yes, the metal key will not start the engine unless the transponder chip is close enough to the ignition.

I know most manuals I've read direct that you do not have other chipped keys/remote devices around the car key when using the key in the respective car during to interference. Any likelihood this happened to you?

Out of curiosity, is your security light acting any different than it normally would when you unlocked the door in the past?

I would recommend you call a good locksmith and explain your situation. My thought is that the car's brains are still good, but something happened to your key and thus a replacement or 2 can be made.
You don't have to splurge on the $650 key either.Check this out:
03-m45-key-replacement-t591081.html

What is the status of the security light (i) without the key; (ii)when the key to turned to the ON position?
Did you try the spare key/fob if any?

Is your MIL (warning light) on? If so any OBD scan tool should be able to pull codes if a NATS (IMMU & ECM) issue. Please update.

My mechanical key does not start the engine as if it is out of gas. I used a scanner and it showed the gas pump is disabled, due to the malfunctioning fob. There is nothing different on the security light and there is no engine light on. The locksmiths I talked to said that I need a new fob and programming. Last week I ordered a used key from a salvage yard dealer at the East Cost and I gave him my Visa account to withdraw the cost of key and the switch for $125 and he said he will ship it last Monday and it takes two to three days to get it. On Wednesday I called the dealer who did not withdraw the money yet and I never received the part. He promised to ship it that day but so far I have not received the part and he never withdrawn the money. I am upset and disappointed for such action and I am hesitant to call him again.

Maurice Morcos wrote:I used a scanner and it showed the gas pump is disabled, due to the malfunctioning fob. There is nothing different on the security light and there is no engine light on. The locksmiths I talked to said that I need a new fob and programming...and the switch

What were the precise codes pulled by your scanner? Have you tried your spare fob if you have one? What switch are you referring to?

The scanner this morning read an ERROR first and later showed 2 codes. p 1610 (pd) and p 1614 (pd).
I hope that you know what these two codes mean.
Thank you Costee for your help.
Maurice

Maurice Morcos wrote:The scanner this morning read an ERROR first and later showed 2 codes. p 1610 (pd) and p 1614 (pd).

Good. Unfortunately you didn't respond to my enquiry on the spare fob. If you have a spare fob try it. If your car comes on then the other fob is bad. On the other hand it's one of these two that's malfunctioning: the NATS Antenna Amp which is latched to the ignition cylinder or the BCM which controls the immobilizer. Now it's also possible that the NATS Amp may have shifted position. If you asked me I'll say your fob is still good. If the NATS Amp is bad, all that's required is just to install a good one and there will be no need for reprogramming the fob. But if it's the BCM, then a new one will require the reprogramming of the fob. For you to get a clearer path it's important that you try out your spare if you have one.

Sorry I forgot to mention that I do not have a spare fob. I just have talked to a locksmith who said will give me a call to check and he is specializing in programming as swell. I guess it is a matter of time to find out and I will mention to him your opinion about the NATS Amp. Do you know how to check the NATS? Thanks
Maurice

I'm afraid we'd have to take a tortuous journey. Since it's good to have a spare anyway, you may tell the programmer to get one for you and then programme the two fobs. If programming fails then we'll consider the Amp and the BCM. I can't be too sure, but the opening sentence of your first post seems to point to the BCM.
The Amp and the BCM are electrical parts, I wonder whether their integrity can be determined by a locksmith.

Maurice Morcos wrote:Do you know how to check the NATS?

If you meant the precise location, I got this from the FSM
1. Remove the Instrument lower driver panel.
2. Remove the steering lock escutcheon.
3. Remove the Instrument panel bracket.
4. Remove the mounting screw, harness connector and remove NATS antenna amp.

Thank you Costee, I think I have to look for a video as I am not sophisticated in auto mechanics.
Maurice

Costee wrote: ↑

Fri Mar 10, 2017 12:11 pm

Maurice Morcos wrote:Do you know how to check the NATS?

If you meant the precise location, I got this from the FSM
1. Remove the Instrument lower driver panel.
2. Remove the steering lock escutcheon.
3. Remove the Instrument panel bracket.
4. Remove the mounting screw, harness connector and remove NATS antenna amp.

Thanks for sharing this useful information, It will help car locksmith to know about how to start ignition through this procedure.

Maurice Morcos wrote: ↑

Thu Mar 09, 2017 9:53 pm

My mechanical key does not start the engine as if it is out of gas.

Just as an FYI ... on a 2003 M45 (and probably on a 2004 too), the mechanical key will NOT start the engine - the fob and transponder are required. The mechanical key is merely a safety mechanism to open the trunk, doors and glove compartment, etc.

Z

Hello did you guys ever find the problem? I’m having the same issue. I washed the oem key and it wouldn’t turn in the ignition. When I get a new key cut and programmed it turned in the ignition but the car won’t turn over. I got the same codes 1610 and 1614.

P1614 is always a bad key or a bad antenna in the IMMU. It means the IMMU and BCM/ECM are communicating okay but the key signal is absent, incorrect or scrambled. You try a key first because it's cheap, and if the new key won't program then replace the IMMU. Since you already replaced the key, the IMMU is next.

timo90 wrote: ↑

Mon Feb 13, 2023 9:48 am

Hello did you guys ever find the problem? I’m having the same issue. I washed the oem key and it wouldn’t turn in the ignition. When I get a new key cut and programmed it turned in the ignition but the car won’t turn over. I got the same codes 1610 and 1614.

What you appear to have programmed is the keyless or remote function. The key immobilizer would need to be programmed by a capable tool to enable the starting function.